Did you have any of the same clearance issues similar to what @Kug3lis had on his urethane gear drives? Are they able to run any sized 63xx dual motors without clipping the king pin or any parts of the base plate? Currently myself and @moon are designing a drive train to address that issue, along with a few other things, and many added benefits IMO. Would be very interested to see a normal 2 gear drive train that can run dual 63xx (I have the new TB 6380’s) motors on stock trucks, like the TB 218’s and have no issues with clearance…
Well I have already existing gear drive for dual tb218 and 6374.
I don’t know what u will use for 6380 because neither the length will fit, neither power will hold with these kind of motors.
I’d say you’re better off getting the Fatboy drive since Jeff has ‘discontinued’ his haha
The problem is that the shape of the mini hanger is not that accurate. I see no way to use it for gear drive without cnc machining the hanger. I have massive problems with alignment and shifting motor mounts (belt drive without crossbars). The normal hanger works better but cnc machining is still the best.
The shape of normal hanger is different to mini hanger because on mini hanger the mount sits more inwards and there is a different shape.
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Oh shit 
Aren’t they supposed to be these amazing precision hangers 
Back to the drawing board
Thanks for your help though 
E: ok, I know this question is pretty stupid, but since both the hanger and mount for the gear drive are aluminum, would welding it be an option?
I just want something that I can set and forget… I think I spoiled myself with marcmt88 s motor mounts 
^ This.
Trampa hangers have variance and yeah one set is not like the other.
Either machined by the drive vendor or a precision hanger like @3DServisas @Kaly is the way to go with a Trampa baseplate/suspension parts.
Expect @Nowind to have a custom hanger 2019 & probably has one now already under wraps. I know he has recently made a MBS baseplate to replace the plastic one they have on the MBS Matrix II
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e: cant get the second cant to go away oh well
aw I didnt mean to bump the thread this was supposed to be a ninja edit. fml.
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Picture instructional diagram coming in a bit!
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Items provided in one kit,
Gearbox cover
Motor Mount
Abec Wheel adapter
6809 bearing
Spur Gear
6803 bearings x3
Bash guard x1
M8 Set screws, 2 short, 2 long
Handful of socket head screws
Four button head screws
3D printed assist piece for mounting
Cut truck hangar of choice
Bearing spacer
4.5mm spacer
17T Motor pinion gear
Not provided, Motor, has to be 63xx to fit the mount
Tools you’ll need!
2.5mm allen key
3mm Allen key
4mm Allen key
Skate tool
243 loctite, or any loctite for set screws
680 retaining compound, recommended for the motor pinion
Torque wrench
SOME PREP WORK BEFOREHAND,
The motor shaft length from the edge has to be between 25~30mm. If it’s longer than that, you will have to cut it down. I used an angle grinder for this, a dremel rotary tool with a cut off wheel works too.
Now we will install the mount onto the hangar. Place your motor mount on the 19mm diameter shoulder, with the flat face of the motor mount facing out. If you are doing a dual drive, install your motor on the mount later when you are doing the other side, if not you won’t be able to do so once both mounts are on. 
Plop the 3d printed assist piece over the axle and use the lock nut from the truck to tighten it slightly, with some wiggle room.
Ensure the edge of the motor mount is parallel with the baseplate, this angle gives the most ground clearance. 
Once you’ve got it angled right, use your skate tool and tighten the lock nut to push the 3D print assist piece and the motor mount further in, locking it in place for the next step. 
Next, install the four M8 set screws. Long ones go on the curved spot, and the shorter ones go on the flat edges.
Loctite time
Apply loctite and screw all four in, but not tight.
Now grab your torque wrench, and set it to 6Nm
You will need to tighten the set screws in this order, but make sure all of them are snug first.
After all four are tightened, set your wrench to 14 Nm now, and torque it down hard
Once all four set screws are done, you will have a mount that will never move. You can remove the lock nut and 3D print assist piece.
Note that the 19mm shoulder will pop out by 1mm from the mount, this is the ‘integrated’ washer.
Next, install the bashguard onto the motor mount. We did it at the last step and it was a bit difficult due to the hangar being in the way…
Use two of the button head screws to install it on.
Use the last two button head screws on the other side of the mount, to seal the holes. 
Now onto the spur gear, pop the two 17mm bearings on both sides of the gear.
Since this is single drive, the motor can be installed now. Once again if you are doing a dual, please install the motor at the first step when you do the other side.
Ensure the bolts are tightened slightly, you should be able to push the motor forward and back, like adjusting tension for a belt. 
Next, slot the motor pinion on, If it does not fit, you might need to file the motor pinion a bit for a snug fit.
Use the large washer included in the kit, it’s 1mm thick so it’ll give the spacing for your pinion and mount.
Clean the shaft and inside of the pinion with a solvent, and apply the retaining compount to the shaft and pinion hole. Not too much on the shaft, as it might squeeze out and get on the motor mount and even worst, the bearing.
Pop the pinion on with the retaining compound,remove the washer and let it sit for a few mins. It should harden pretty quickly. Try to do this quickly because it sets fast, and if you mess up you will need to heat it up to 500 celcius to remove it and redo…
Next, take a piece of printer paper and fold it in half, place the spur gear on the hangar and slot the paper in between the gears. 
Push the motor in and let the gears engage with each other. Snug but not too tight, a little backlash is needed.
Once you have the backlash set, tighten the four motor screws in a diagonal fashion. 
Do remember to have the spur gear placed correctly at the end. The holes with the recess should be facing out, like in this picture.
With the spur gear removed, it’s easier to tighten all four. Do not loctite it yet, do a test ride after it’s done and hear if it sounds fine. If it’s too loud you might need to readjust. Once you are happy with the sound, then loctite the motor screws.
Lube time. Use a grease that bonds well with the gears and is safe on Nylon. I used a marine grade grease and used a bunch of it. Use a popsicle stick and apply it generously to the gears. 
Now comes the gearbox. Install it on the motor mount and use five socket screws and a 2.5mm Allen key to screw it down. 
Use six socket screws and install them to the Abec wheel adapter. 
Next, place the big bearing on the Abec adapter, we will be doing a bearing seal. 
Press it onto the spur gear, engaging the six bolts into the other six holes on the spur gear.
This one is optional, but if you want a secondary seal, place the 3rd and final 17mm bearing into the 17mm shoulder. 
Place the 4.5mm spacer onto the axle. 
Now, pop in your Abec wheel of choice.
And it’s done! Your drive is completed. If you are doing dual, repeat on the other side! Note that for dual, only diagonal or E-Calibers/TB 218s will fit. 
Now that your drive is assembled, install it to your build! Mine’s coming soon… shhh.
So yea, that’s about it for the photo diagram. If you have any questions, feel free to ask @nuttyjeff!
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Also, here’s a video tutorial from start to finish if you would like to see how we install it on vid.
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Fantastic job making this how to! Making me consider this on my spud… After my current build is done that is
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See post 233, my other board is also a spud on a single 6374. It’s awesome.
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Unless you get someone to give up their set, these are one-and-done. Sorry!
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So these are never again!? I want one for my 12s single drive!!
Never say never 
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Oooo boy! I retract my previous ‘never’ good sir, kind sir 
I’m assembling mine now. So sweet. I have dual on e-calibers. The instructions, written and video, have been amazingly helpful. Thank you guys!
Notes and issues I’ve had:
-
the paint inside the axle holes of the mount plate had to be sanded off, but I think there were burrs? Or the axle wasn’t machine exactly conical. Things kept getting stuck, needing a lot of sanding and wiggling, with lots of chowder marks on the axle surfaces. Eventually got everything all the way in and aligned. Not so easy for me like the youtube video!
I didn’t mind the extra work, as long as everything lined up in the end, which it did. -
motor gears had some burrs, so motor shaft would not insert without some dremelling of the gear. Kind of a lot of dremelling.
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BKB 6354 shafts are just about the perfect length!
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The 3rd 17mm bearing that goes inside the wheel adapter – if I use the huge bearing for the outer seal instead of the v-ring, alignment is slightly between the gear cover and the machined axle. The bearing will not fit. Good thing it’s optional
Oh, I’ve only tried on once side so far.
Now I’m at the point where I install the wheels. Question for @nuttyjeff. You included a plastic spacer thing that’s about the same size/shape as a skate wheel spacer. This part is not mentioned in the video or written instructions. And the 4.5mm plastic disc spacer. Do I need either or both with e-caliber?
Thanks again guys. This stuff was a pleasure to assemble, and so pretty!
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Nice! No chopping needed?
Yeah, these gears arent very good, id admit. Im not buying COTS gears anymore, machining my own for future drives.
Which part is this again? I think i included a black metal one haha. It’s for ecalibers. You insert it after inserting the 4.5mm nylon spacer.
EDIT: From the start of the hanger axle, it’s
Black nylon > Black Metal spacer > speed ring > (bearing, wheel spacer, bearing) > speed ring > nut.
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Roger that, everything fitting nicely. The spacer is indeed aluminum, anodized black (wow). It’s so light I mistook for plastic, sorry!
Yah no chopping, perfect fit. I would note though, the shaft has a keyway, and 2 big flats. So not much contact for retaining compound. I don’t think we can skip the key with this motor. BKB sells keys that are almost a perfect fit (they require a bit of sanding).
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