Perfect, thank you!
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Hey I’ve been running a lipo mod with 750mah and I think I can charge once a year. Mini remote is really efficient. If I were you I would worry so much about capacity. Even 250mah would be great imo.
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Do note that if you get a batt of thickness less than 10mm, you’ll have to prop it up slightly as the tp4056a chip sits on the battery.
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Also guys, i apologize for dropping the ball on the Avio mini remote instructions. @Linny has taken some pictures and will be doing up some basic instructions to guide ya’ll through this process!
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Okay here we go. This is a step by step of how to mod a mini remote. I’m doing the long version but the short one is also similar, just with longer wire.
What you need Mini remote Screws used for the mini remote (do not toss them) One (1) 5v to 3.3v Regulator One (1) TP4056A (Micro USB) PCB One (1) LP103035 or smaller battery 30AWG to 24AWG wires. (Min of 2 different colours) And of course, the remote casing. Refer to the first post of this thread for the download link to print.
Ok let’s go.
First, remove your screws from the mini remote and open it up
KEEP THE SCREWS
You’re gonna need this
Cut these two wires that connect to the AA batteries. 
There we go, now let’s remove more stuff.
Take this lever off, so it won’t fly out and go under your bed which you will never find forever
Remove the two screws here that attach the trigger to the casing
Then, cut or desolder these three wires that connect to the steering knob of the mini remote, we do not need that.
Okay! That’s all that we need from the mini remote. Now you can toss the casing in the trash 
Okay now onto the regulator. You need to desolder and pull out all three pins. I did it by having the solder on the other side of the pin, once the solder iron melts, i tilt and twist slightly till the pin comes loose and eventually comes out. This one’s tricky so take your time with it. 
Once that’s done, you can solder the wires from the mini remote PCB in this fashion to the regulator. Red goes to OUT, and black goes to GND. Do note that the wire needs to be long enough for the regulator to extend past the PCB, so do resolder a longer wire if needed
Now, flip the regulator over to the other side. Have a new black and red wire that’s about 40mm long, cut shorter if needed later. Solder the black one on GND as well, but this time it’s below. 
The red wire goes on VIN, but on the underside as well. 
You should end up with this
The red wire will go to OUT+ of the micro USB PCB, and the black goes to OUT-
And finally, the battery. I had mine with the wire on the bottom left
The red wire of the battery goes on B+, and black goes to B-
And finally, use a plier to crush this LED bulb as it’ll stay on and drain your battery. 
SNIP SNIP
And we have power!
Now we are done with the electronics, next thing is to install it into the remote casing. 
Conformal coated all my PCBs.
I also hot glued most of the solder joints to give it a bit of strength.
Now you can double side tape the battery to the bottom of the case, and also use foam tape or double side tape to paste the PCB on top of the battery. 
It might sit lower so use a foam tape that’s 1mm thick to lift it up, and align it well with the hole.
Next, hot glue the mini remote PCB and push it all the way to the edge of the casing and make sure the switch goes into the hole of the new casing as well. Remember to hot glue the regulator PCB down to prevent it from rattling as well. 
Next, you need to snip of a bit of these two knobs. NOT ALL, just about half or so. This is to prevent the other side of the casing hitting it and making it impossible to close the casing due to the height.
Once that’s done, use the existing screws from the mini remote previously and screw them onto the new casing. You didn’t throw the screws away did you?
Install the lever back as well with the spring.
And should everything be done properly, it should look like this! The short version basically has lesser length but there’s still plenty of room. So the long one has A LOT of room haha.
Wire management is pretty good if done well. But hey it’s gonna be inside, never gonna be seen but that’s how i do things. 
Place the top casing on, and use the existing mini remote screws, and plop four of them into the screw holes.
Success! Now what’s left to do is to do the VESC set up and all that jazz. It’s ready to use! For binding, you will need to use a small screw driver to press the button inside, or untill Jeff creates the STL for the long button plug.
And that’s the end of it. You should have a remote that works. Please follow the steps from start to finish in order. The first one i did, i started with the battery and went up, basically doing it in reverse. I sorta ruined one of the PCBs and Jeff had to fix it for me.
Do let us know if you have any further questions and we’ll do our best to answer!
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Nice, thanks so much. What did you use to shorten the white knobs on the pcb?
The trim knobs don’t have to be cut, they are low enough that the casing won’t hit.
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You only need to hotglue them in place so they dont move accidentally if you were to drop the remote or shake it violently wink.
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Ah I was looking at the wrong photo when I read that text. Got it!
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I used the long one for my AT, And using this small one on my commute board. Love the small form. Can easily fit it in my pocket 
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Hooray for the assembly instructions! I should probably get around to doing this but so many non-eskate distractions nowadays…
would this work instead of the vaultage regulator your using ? if I set the output to 3.3v as its pretty much the same as what you using but this one is verable. I’m asking as I already have these and it will save me having to wait for the ones your using to be delivered 
Thanks
Yes this should work as well. Any converter to bring the output of the tp4056 to 3.3v that can fit into the casing will work.
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I decided to put a 1500mah lipo in mine it fits perfectly inside the ‘long version’. I’ve also added 2 buttons which I’m going to solder where the steering pot was so when I click them it gives a high/low value which I will then set up an arduino on the receiver to make the stearing (now 2 buttons) act as indicators for my board so it has in indicators. I also have an arduino wired between the receiver and VESC to read the throttle value and turn on a break light when I start to break . ALSO I have programmed both arduinos to flash all the LEDs if the controller dissconects to act as hazard lights just incase My controller was to die or lose connection.
If anyone wants my arduino code ,` wiring diagrams and my edited remote case I’ll be happy to help. as soon as its complete I will post photos on here .
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Sounds like good features! I’d like to see it when it’s done!
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This is awesome. You can add an array of buttons to do arbitrtary commands (by defining ppm range), like horn, smoke screen, oil slick, turbo, eject.
yes I know but I’m only going to be using 2 just as a test to make sure it works correctly and then once I have tested it I will improve the designs of the controller to add more buttons for more stuff and improve the arduino code to allow for expantion. once finished I would like top have around 8 - 10 buttons and the design files for them . E.g if you wanted a controller with only 4 buttons I would be able to send you a folder with the 3D printable controller STL with space for 4 buttons, the arduino codes and the wiring diagram.
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just so everyone knows these don’t work I’ve tried 4 incase they was broken or fauly . when you set the voltage to 3.3v it for some reason doesnt let it power on. I tested it with normal AA battaries and it works fine but as soon as I use a lipo with this regulator it doesnt allow it to power on 
hmmm I’m going to go ahead and buy the ones the creator recomended…
Looks kinda cool with bed liner (:
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Anyone else having cutout issues? My connection keeps cutting out for a fraction of a second every couple seconds, and I’ve checked all my phase wires.
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