https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/no-words-just-pictures-delete-words-2/88821/351?u=rusins That’s a funny looking spot-welder you got there
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Its a prototype new model 
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@DerelictRobot what ply and concave (racing/cruising) did you get in the XL2.0 deck, and how do you like it?
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I picked up the Hard Flex XL deck + a Helical drive. I don’t think he’s offering the race profile yet, but so far I love the setup I have.
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Please someone open both of them and measure the stators…everything for science! TB DD has way bigger stator that for sure.
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I tried to open it but couldn’t :(. Might have to make a 3D printed part(that screws in into the 6 holes where the kegel adapter is mounted) to pull the can out.
Also has 18 magnets whereas the usual 63mm motors have 14 magnets. So that means a 28% increase in torque if magnets were of the same size.
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yes and no. You can also just pull the motor can out from the side. That depends how the stator is fixed inside. If it just but the 12mm nut in front then this technique won’t work because the stator will follow the magnets. If it is fixed then you will remove the motor can only. It’s normal that is extremely hard, the magnetic field is really strong in brushless motors. Otherwise yes you need a 3 harm puller. I got it from Ali https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Doersupp-75mm-3-Jaw-Bearing-Puller-Auto-Gear-Remover-Pulling-Extractor-Reversible-Legs-Car-Van-Wheel/32860163360.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dfvSYRK and works fine. You can also print it there are some on grab cad https://grabcad.com/library?page=1&time=all_time&sort=recent&query=puller.
Anyway also in this case you need the initial gap from the motor can and the rear part, so you can only pull by hand.
I have those bearing pullers, but I have a feeling the stator is held on the shaft somehow. So If I pull the whole motor out, it will destroy those mounting points or even the stators. Do I make sense?
no you won’t if the stator is fixed as I think it is, the front nut is to stop the motor can from sliding out, you will only remove the motor can and magnets and leave the stator. The motor can with magnets is not in contact with the stator, it’s a sleeve.
So basically close 
when you pull the motor can out…watch out your fingers, never release the motor can while you are doing it.
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Oh no! I hope that’s grease and not blood in the trash can. You ok?
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Oh yea thats all grease. It gets everywhere haha
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How did this happen?
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https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/no-words-just-pictures-delete-words-2/88821/354?u=arek
Cool mate!
I’m also going to print entire enclosure.
Most of the things I have figured out, but I’m not sure how to seal it so it’s water resistant, how are you going to do that?
Here’s what I got currently:
(Cells are kinda pink because NCR18650GA)
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I was doing some heavy off roading 5 weeks ago. The board was in full throttle in the air and then hit the cement all of a sudden and just shattered 1 gear. 
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Find a rubber strip and then add an indent to your enclosure and slot it in?
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Yeah that was my 1st thought as well but then I realised that the board is flexing a lot(trampa) so I have nice seal but then step on it and there’s no seal…
Until I find a better way I will just print a cover for it which will be sealing it, so print - print instead of print - board, but that adds to the thickness.
That makes sense. You’d still do well putting the penis rubber in though right. 100% waterproof at that point.
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