Does anyone have a better option for mounting the motors that I am not currently aware of?
I would like to be able to not cut the end off the enclosure, but I would also like to mount the motors inside of the trucks, and have as much clearance between motors and the ground as possible.
Including the distance the trucks travel when turning, there isn’t enough room.
265mm belt (currently being used) is the shortest that I think will fit before the motor pulley and wheel start to grind together.
it looks like I’ll have to remove the enclosure starting at the blue line:
I have the riptide risers on my LY evo with surfrodz, the board still handles like it did without them. You wouldn’t be changing the geometry that much by putting a flat riser under the trucks (or just one set). If it was an angled riser than ya, you gotta do some thinking then!
That’s correct. The motors only hit the enclosure when the deck/trucks are angled for a turn. It would be okay as is if I only wished to go straight on it.
but it looks like I’ll need 1.5" or 1.75" bolts, so will have to wait a few more days. I thought my current cross-bolts were 1" but the 1.25" bolts seem to be the same size as my previous ones.
Charged the battery for the first time earlier tonight, stopped it at 43.0v because it was taking longer than I had expected.
It looks like the loop key I made has warped and solder is coming out of it?
Does anyone know what would have caused this? I had all of the components running last night and it seemed fine, just after charging this happened.
It’s a 50.4v 1.5amp charger so I don’t think that is the issue.
Should the charger be connected to the battery before the loop key? (meaning loop key just cuts off ESC’s but could still charge with it disconnected?)
At the moment, I have the charger connecting to the positive terminal of the battery just past the loop key, so it would need to be inserted to charge.
I was planning on replacing the board-side connector with a male XT90 (vs the female XT90 that is currently there) anyway, should I do that and continue as normal? or is there anything else I should check before continuing?
If the resistor is burned up, you will need to replace the female side anyway, so that’s generally another good reason to attach the male side to the board.
There’s a resistor in there, which is what makes an XT90-S different from a regular XT90. Basically there’s an extra contact in the plug arranged so that as you plug it in, it first connects everything through the resistor, which limits the current and prevents the spark. Then once you push the connector all the way home, the resistor is bypassed so that full power can flow.
If you don’t plug it in all the way, the board will try to pull the full rated battery current through the resistor - It will act like the battery is totally dead, and you will fry the resistor.
One thing that puzzles me is that if it were just an issue of a loopkey not plugged in all the way, that should have presented itself while riding, not while charging. Double-check your wiring, and make sure that the loopkey is between the battery and the controllers, and the charge plug is on the battery side of the loopkey, not on the controller side. You should be able to charge your board with the loopkey pulled.
Board cut out on me today while accelerating and caused me to hit the pavement, it says “fault: Over Current” on the log recorded by the metr pro app on my iPhone.
Does anyone have any information that would be useful to avoiding this in the future? (the board works fine after, and it has never cut out like this before)