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TB Motor mount, tight fit?


#1

Hey guys! Having some trouble mounting the TB motor mount v4.
It’s really tight. I can’t really get it further without hitting with a rubber mallet (which i already did). Here is a picture.

Btw, these are real caliber trucks.
Thanks guys!


#2

I think the paint job might’ve made it a bit too thick. I got authentic caliber II’s in satin midnight blue and it’s pretty loose on the truck.


#3

Yea I think there’s a lot of variation in the caliburs. Mine won’t stay put if I hit any rough pavement and I’m currently battling that problem.


#4

Okay, thanks guys! Better tight than loose. I’ll keep on hammering. Thanks!!


#5

Just get something to wedge that clamp open a little bit. Then it will go on easy, then pull the wedge out.

You may have a set of caliber 1’s. They are a little thicker.


#6

Did that, but more hammering was needed. Took some time. Thanks!!


#7

Use the included heatshrink shims.


#8

I have been. Along with lots of locktite and I always carry tools, it works temporarily. I’ve gone through 3 or 4 already. One mount has held for about 20 miles with minimal movement. The other mount moves almost every time I take it out. I’m in the middle of cutting up a soup can into little strips to try achieving a more permanent solution. Some advice I got from @psychotiller.


#9

Sorry to hijack this thread, but it seems the same issue in a different direction - variance among calibur 2s

My heat shrink that I put in Saturday that I just took out:


#10

@tomi-rc The paint definitely looks thick. Let me know if you have any issues with it otherwise. Might have to bang it in.

@spek I’ll PM you. We’ll get it resolved for you.


#11

@spek @torqueboards i had the same issue for a few days, until i used the heatshrink and also used a wrench to get some leverage on the allen key, that allowed me to put quite a bit of toque on that bolt


#12

Thanks! But i think i got it right.
I have an issue with the motor shaft, it is too short. Only 2 of the set screws can get to the shaft. Will this be a problem? I’ll be using threadlock.

Thanks!


#13

That’s the SK3 right? i had the same issue, but my 2 screws actually touch about 50% of them.


#14

Yes! What do you mean about 50%? If i rotate the pulley i can get 2 set screws touching perfectly and the other 2 touching 50%. I’ll probably do that.


#15

@chinzw Thanks :slight_smile:

@tomi-rc If your using SK3 they have shorter motor shafts. You’ll probably be better off flipping the motor pulley and swapping the M4 set screws for M4 socket cap bolts. Make sure to use a flat spot on the motor shaft. You should be fine like that. If you want you can file/grind down towards a D shape motor shaft and fit a keyway in. Although, that’s probably not as necessary.

Definitely swap the set screws for m4 socket cap since your not using a keyway. m4x6 works.


#16

Great! Thanks. I’ll do that. Also, i shouldn’t have any issue with the c clip binding with the motor mount, right? Thanks!


#17

@tomi-rc PM me. You’ll be fine with it but would better if you had a wider opening. I have a newer motor mount with a wider opening. PM me and we can get it swapped.


#18

Pm’d ya, man. I ended up using 2 layers of aluminum can that I sanded down to remove any wax or coatings they put on there. With a drop of locktite. this looks and feels more sturdy. Will update after my commute tomorrow.


#19

How’d it work out? Is it staying tight?


#21

Yes it seems to be working great. I can actually feel a difference in the vibration under my feet. Like the motors were moving as much as the heat shrink would flex when I hit bumps. Feels rock solid with the aluminum instead. I’ll need to test it over some more miles but it looks promising.