So I bought two switch from DIY Electric Skateboard, and both were stuck powered when I tried to use them. They wouldn’t turn off. What are my options for switches? Does anyone have any they recommend, its the only thing holding me back on my builds.
interesting name… but my buddy and I ordered two as well and they both once powered on failed open(on) and couldn’t be turned off… I just went the route of xt90 anti spark loop key.
Well at least I am not the only one. Think I may go the old fashion switch route, till I can design something better. I was hoping there was something else I could buy that would do the job. May go the XT90 route too, doesn’t look like a bad way to go either.
you could use a double switch system too… turn first switch on and it has an inline resistor to preload the system, then use a thicker guage on 2nd switch and turn that on for current to flow through. or a relay system…there’s other ways besides FETs…
Xt90s is way to go. It takes less space, much more trustworth and less parts to broke.
1 Like
loop key all the way
1 Like
yep and a 5 pack of xt90’s is like 10 bucks…so you can just have extra keys with you or what not and your always able to control the board’s power state 
You could try something like my switch?
It’s a 120A momentary latching relay switch driven by 24v
Move rocker switch one way (momentary), it latches on, current can flow, move out the other way (momentary), it switches off, no spark. This type (rather than MOSFET type, doesn’t consume power the whole time it’s on.
Just get a vedder the diy electric skateboard ones suck and I do why people still buy them
Agree the diy electric ones are shit. I also bought 2 from diy, both failed on first use. He basically told me it was my fault because I must have connected them wrong lol. On another note the one I made previous to the diy ones is still going strong so they look to be hit and miss 
. I use a loop key now.
I have 4 vedder antispark switches and couldn’t live without them 
I don’t like loop keys or xt90 antisparks, what I need is on/off switch.
The only important thing is the switch must be connected and set OFF when connecting the battery and electronics, when it is ON it stays on because a diode get burnt.
1 Like
The whole point of having a switch is so that the circuit is broken whilst connecting the batteries… You never want it on in that situation…
the Vedder switches are known to fail too. However i haven’t heard anyone review the direct fet version of Vedders switch
That’s true, just read about people who burned their antisparks (diode) because they didn’t plug the switch to the pcb or let it on when they connect the battery the first time.
2 weeks ago I forgot to turn it off and changed one vesc. When I plugged the new vesc I had my first spark experience, it was scary! 
DIY ones are crap and I can’t believe he still stands by them and sells them. @torqueboards way too many complaints, you need to pull this product, even if you don’t have your replacement one yet. I had multiple fail within seconds of connecting. I know for a fact I did nothing wrong. Many others have the same issue. Either you’ve failed to explain or provided instructions on proper use, or your switches do not work for most people. I have yet to find ANYONE besides you who claims they have no issues with it…
So far, it’s around 50-0 for the fail-success ratio I’ve seen on this forum. I can dig up the old thread if you’d like…
At this point, that switch is a scam…
1 Like
I’m using the diyes switch, almost a year now with no issues
Do you mean in the beginning or even after longer use?
Fortunately I have “good ones” up to now 
but you make me think about adding a LED so I can see if it’s really off (if the switch should fail).
I’m not sure, just heard a couple people talk about how theirs have failed. I think @Eboosted might be able to answer the question.
@evoheyax I use them with no issues time and time again. They do fail easily but we’ll replace any switch if anyone has any issues.
We have a direct fet one hopefully have it tested soon and we’ll replace it with the current and finally be done with the current version.
I have no idea how people damage it every time. I’d just recommend to plug in to the batteries (last) after everything else is connected and give the switch 2-3 secs before turning it on/off if you are turning it on and off often (when testing).
1 Like
ok, 50-1 then, haha.
Do you have any theories as to why yours works, while the vast majority fail?