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Stealthboard~6s 5000Mah~149Kv SK3~Custom Deck~Torqueboards Mount/Wheels


#1

For those of you who haven’t been to this page before, I will be keeping the pictures and dates below so that you can see the edits and progress that I’ve made. For those of you who may have the same problems that I am having/have run into, I hope you can maybe learn something from my mistakes.

(5/5/16)
Hello, this is my first build, but it’s coming along nicely. With a budget of 500 and a decent amount of resources around, I’ve made progress. For starters, I have a custom lasercut deck that I’ll be staining and adding griptape to in a couple of weeks. I’ve already mounted the trucks and wheels, and I intend to mount the motor soon. I charged the batteries last night, and will test run the motor later today. Where I’m stuck is the enclosure. I have a 3d printer that I can use, and about 50$ left that i didn’t spend on the initial parts. Any suggestions to help would be greatly appreciated. Here’s a picture without the electronics:

(5/6/16):
Thanks so much for the suggestions guys. Here’s a picture of what I added to the board last night. Haven’t been able to test the motor yet because the connection to the ESC from the batteries is weak, but Banana connectors are their way in the mail.

(5/7/16):
So I took the trucks off temporarily, and stained the board. Will be putting polyurethane coating on it tomorrow. (Picture below) Unfortunately though I’m still stuck on the enclosure, except for a different reason. Can’t figure out how to make it so that I can switch the circuit between running the lipos and the motor to charging the lipos.

(5/9/16):
Rejoice! My banana connectors finally arrived in the mail, which means I can complete the circuit and test out the motor. I’ll solder those on later today. The stain on the board looks incredible, all I have left to do with that is put on the polyurethane coating and then slap on some grip-tape (most likely with a lasercut design). Here are some pictures:



Uploading…

UPDATE: (5/13/16)
The 3d print worked somewhat. My ESC enclosure failed, and the lid for the battery enclosure failed, so I used a dremel to cut old abs, and glues multiple layers for a decent lid. It is secured with hair pins and more glue.
Here’s a picture before and after I put on the lid:


#2

You might want to check out this one


He will have pretty cool new enclosures around by the end of the month


#3

You could contact @psychotiller. I’m sure he has an enclosure for $50


#4

Yup! and free shipping too!


#5

So I’m still stuck on the enclosure, but for a different reason. I can’t figure out how to make it so that I can both have the lipos running the battery, and then later on charge the batteries without disconnecting any wires (which would mean unscrewing the case every time if i had to). Any suggestions?

UPDATE: Nvm, I’m going to go the cheap route. 3d printed enclosure, and I’ll just unplug the batteries when I want to charge. Thanks for the suggestions though!


#6

I’m using these from Walmart. They work fine. Just cut out what you don’t need.

Link to walmart box


#7

I have the enclosure figured out, but a new problem popped up with charging. I have my batteries wired together with a 6s connecter, but i’m told i’ll need to cut one of the wires for it to work. My batteries are wired in series. Which one should I cut?


#8

You cut the red balance wire on the negative side of your system.


#9

Ah! You beat me to it! But, you are correct.


#10

Awesome, I’ll do that. Thanks


#11

BIG UPDATE: So I’ve made a lot of progress since my last update, sorry for not posting for so long. As far as the enclosure goes, I attempted to 3D print and it worked well, except I got the dimensions wrong. I managed to fix it with the dremel, only to have the entire thing melt after about 30 minutes of running and testing without any of it actually on the board. I added a specialized 3D print as a cover for my motor, but I secured the bolts to tightly and so it snapped. Back to square 1. I managed to then buy a simple tool box as @joop1987 suggested, and that seems to be working pretty well. I also went out an got xt90 connectors, a big bulky but they work well with my clumsy hands and they were much more reliable than electrical tape that I used to hold he wires together for motor testing. Over the past week, I managed to make progress with the polyurethane coating whilst trying out my Quanum motor. It seems to be a dud, connection constantly failing, and it only actually turns on half of the time. I’ll be sending that back to Hobbyking with their no-fuss policy (30 days). So that’s it for now, here are some pictures. Any suggestions for a “plug and play” controller would be appreciated.


#12

Another UPDATE:
So it turns out the Quanum controller works just fine. A bit cheaply made, but I had the trim totally wrong and the trigger was a bit jammed but I cleaned it out and it is running smoothly. Also finished the new enclosure and got everything mounted. Haven’t finished with the griptape, but that’ll be the next step. Here’s a pic right before the test ride


#13

FINAL:
Last night I put on the griptape. Not perfect, but better than I expected with no machinery to cut and place :joy:. Here’s pictures of the final result:


#14

Anybody know how to post a video? I’m kind of clueless :smile:


#15

Upload it to youtube and paste the link here :projector:


#16

There is no reason to cut anything. It woll work regardless.
There are different versions of this kind of adapter. Some cut the cable and some don’t.


#17

Took it for the first decent length ride today. It had a couple of problems, cut out once, but I managed to fix it. His the curb and scratched my mount once tho :confused:


#18

Buy some lucid grip- spray on grip tape


#19

Awesome timing on that one :smile: I was about to cut it when I saw this and decided to try it without cutting first. It works perfectly just the way it is


#20

I thought about that but it’s pretty expensive. Went with regular grip tape that I cut with a knife