Certified FOCBOX Suppliers | Get Focbox Unity

Stack 2 decks with spacers, electronics, li-ion battery inbetween? BUILD HELP

deck
in-deck-electronics

#1

Hey guys. I have 60 Samsung R25R 18650 cells just sitting and I don’t want my new build to be a put-together-as-I-go kind of build. I am thinking of something like Chaka’s free ride decks with replaceable cell level fuse etc. I don’t think I can build a quality deck from scratch and also, don’t have the money to give someone to build it for me. So I was wondering, if I could stack 2 decks with wooden spacers along the periphery and center rib and join them together using bolts from top to bottom. I would be using wood glue to join the spacers to the bottom board and the top board ideally would be thin and just act as a cover.

@evoheyax @whitepony @longhairedboy What do you guys think. Is it even worth thinking about it?

For example use two such decks($35 each) available at http://www.skateshred.com/index.php/wholesale-blank-longboard-decks/40-x-10-drop-through-blank-deck.html
http://www.skateshred.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/t/xstealth.png.pagespeed.ic.dnMdYCGBFl.png


#2

i think it could be done. my son and i have been talking about doing something like this.


#3

possible. I don’t think this will be a cheap solution though… you have to buy 2 decks, which is not cheap. I’d be interested also in what you use as a spacer. I like @sl33py’s approach, which is to take 2 decks, route out channels on one, and make a lid.


#4

What if a vibration absorbing material was sandwiched between the two decks?

Could transform the ride quality and decrease damaging vibrations.


#5

Think ur truck hanger will hit if u stack those and drop thru. Too thick. So I think. U could cut it out more though.
A lot of work vs starting from scratch I think


#6

I would drop through the bottom one or just mount it directly to the bottom.


#7

this is a cool idea. can’t wait to see what it looks like.


#8

What about these hex standoffs as spacers. They are 1" tall and 1" hex size.

http://images1.mcmaster.com/mvA/contents/gfx/large/3314a5p1-j08-digitall.png?ver=1425561751

They are avaiable at http://www.mcmaster.com/#3314a7/=14930ur at $6.0 per piece.

Say I use 12 of them and the 2 decks for $70. That brings the total cost to be $140. I would bet because of the combined strength, it would be pretty rigid too.


#9

Could also mount switches and ports on the middle section with side access and not have to weaken or modify the decks.

Could also make side ports for cooling ventilation channels.

Lets say someone drives their board into a curb.

Just replace the damaged deck(s) and good as new.


#10

I hadn’t thought of this, a good idea and I like the evoheyax approach of routing a board out to provide a hollow cavity, I was thinking do you might need a heat sink for the Vesc and batteries? Not sure how hot they get encased in a wooden box?


#11

everything depends on riding style and terrain. I have a lot of heat issues because I like to full throttle for miles and miles on end, through lots of pretty steep hills. With 2 vescs with heat sinks, I hit heat limits. With 4 vescs with heat sinks, no heat issues with the vescs. I have zero ventilation in my deck design right now.


#12

Thanks man - love your custom build board, so a compliment from a true DIY builder is awesome.

I’m lazy and just got a pre-made double thick deck - then routered the crap outta it to make room for electronics. Hardest part was finding the double thick deck w/ the shape i wanted.

I really like this idea. In order to keep thickness (side view) i would probably router a little out of each board - one top and one bottom to make room for the electronics, then bolt them together.

I really dig the airflow channels one of the guys here did w/ his custom made board (in pine - stained and looked awesome). I’ll see if i can search and link his build for you to look and get any ideas on.

Will definitely follow - GL!


#13

I’ve been thinking of doing this for my next build. But I wasn’t sure if it could work. Now since it’s been brought up, I think I might actually do it. Just have to find the right deck. Maybe CF on top of the top deck and bottom of the bottom deck. Although I don’t have any experience with CF.


#14

That’s the fun part - learning as you go. Vacuum gives the best finish, but you can hand-lay the CF pretty easily. A bit heavier and you’ll have bubbles and imperfections. a bit of sanding and you’re GTG. I’ve done a few decks now like this and progressively am getting better. practice practice practice…

The fastest and reasonable priced CF i’ve found is on ebay from EliteMotoring. Decent price, and quick ship. No affiliation. You can likely find cheaper elsewhere, but i’ve not looked a ton honestly. If you look for 2nds they work great for base layers (if doing multiple layers - like for enclosures) - saves quite a bit vs finish CF.

GL!


#15

Thanks for all the suggestions, y’all. I am going to buy the decks then. WHICH DECKs would you guys suggest from http://www.skateshred.com that would would give me the biggest real estate and the best riding comfort during long rides?

I think I am going to couple it with Cast Ronins. Eagerly waiting for @Chris1 to get finalize the mounts. More about them here


#16

I like the board you have above, but you are definitely making it more difficult w/ a drop deck - plus any flex really will make it more challenging. A good stiff DH deck is probably easiest. Doubling up the boards themselves should really firm it up if they originally flex w/ just one.

Board preference is really personal - like asking if you like blondes or redheads better. What kind of deck do you normally ride, or like the looks of? We can steer you way from problematic ones that are really flexy to start with. And motor clearance challenges (able to be overcome) with drop decks in particular can add a lot of challenge. Rear mount like MTB works for most.

Symetrical boards are nice - love drop decks too. I’d focus on a good stiff DH style to start.

GL!


#17

This isn’t what I was thinking, except to take out equal material out each (2-3plys) so that the fleet and support is more evenly distributed between the two decks. Although in my mind I would do this without the spacers and try and unify the 2 to look like 1.