Ha! Thats about what i use for my dance set up. Well evolve boards are slow to my understanding( i may be wrong i know they got lots of different boards. I also thought gullwing trucks were made for hard carving and pumping. I wouldnt use gullwing trucks for anything with speed. I prefer carver trucks for carving and pumping personally since they are pretty much self propelled. If you like surfing check out carver surf skate boards. I have a lot of fun with mine for flat ground. They are totally speed wobble hell with the swiveling trucks. I think changing the angle of the trucks is overkill at those speeds. I can kick a longboard 12mph lol. I engage the bushing but never tighten it down. If you have to tighten your bushing down so it is squished … it is over tightened and you should use a harder bushing. Just my opinion.
Thanks @kai you’re right that we can kick to 12 mph ha! I might be underestimating speed; I’ve been basing it on my ability to hop off the board and run it out if needed (I know my sprinting pace); so not an accurate measurement at all! I completely agree about the kingpin but tightness; I tighten just enough to see that the bushing is engaged.
@treenutter I’ve been clocked at 16mph on flats just kicking. Also, I allow about two threads to show on my kingpin. That unit of measurement is real! lol
@longhairedboy really? That’s great to know! But wouldn’t the number of threads showing vary based on the height of the bushing (which I assume is variable) and the length of the kingpin? (which I also assume is variable) Hope I’m not interpreting this too literally 
P.S. You can go that fast because at least some part of you build is red, which is 20% faster!
The Kingpin Thread unit is sort of like tons i would imagine. You have long tons, tonnes (metric), and short tons. lol
What good would it be without ridiculous complications?
Also, its true about the red. When my board just had the default bustin graphic, I was only able to achieve a mere 27.8 mph peak. I didn’t hit 31.3 until i had added 20% more power by painting the whole thing red. In fact its possible that the all the varied colors of the electronics inside the box are what’s really slowing me down at this point, so i should probably just dip the whole thing in red, motors and all.
I do like your 2 thread unit. i do about the same. and if I want tighter I get a harder bushing. I hate seeing 5mm of thread sticking out the top of a truck… its just an astetics thing I know, but I’m a little bit OCD about things like that.
You could always turn the kingpin over so that the nut is inside the baseplate. Then, no matter what, it will always be just the head of the kingpin to tighten.
yeah you can do that with reverse kingpins,but I use a conventional truck on mine so thats not really an option.
what blasphemy is this? do people actually do this? it seems like it would look a lot cleaner, but impossible to get the pin back in without removing the truck if you took it all the way out. I guess in drop-throughs it wouldn’t matter much.
I remember the gunmetal trucks came like this. They even had a little revolver cylinder stamped on the head. I hope someday Caliber and friends make up and they reincorporate the design into the Caliber trucks.
On Calibers it makes it a little easier to switch out bushings by reversing the bolt. No need to remove the truck.
On my personal boards I use a hard bushing boardside on my rear truck only, the rest I leave soft. When not carving the hard bushing helps lock in the rear truck and you still get good carving when you need it from the soft bushings.
actually now that I think about it. the randal trucks I have are reversed kingpin by default.
My nuts are accessible without removing the trucks…just put a finger on it while turning the kingpin. My nuts are accessible…that’s all I’m saying.
Update: I’m using Venom 81a double-barrel bushing boardside and roadside now, using the two-thread tightness standard scientifically substantiated by @longhairedboy and @lowGuido.
I have the top speed limited to 16 MPH through VESC’s “soft RPM limit” feature and I’ve clocked that speed regularly with a speedometer on a smartphone. Most of my riding is on sidewalks and dense complicated areas, so average speed is 8-10 MPH, and then I can open up a bit on when there are some long and unobstructed stretches of road.
I switched to softer bushings when the temperatures dropped here about a month ago… in the cold the bushings get stiff. Not sure how these will perform in the summer.
Does anyone use the “almost precision” packs that have fancy washer kits for bushings? There seems to be a potential value in having all of the bushing in contact with a machined washer, as opposed to just the inner 2/3 using a standard washer. Overkill though?
I’ve never used this kit, but its definitely worth looking at and trying out. It seems like it would stiffen things up a bit, maybe even drop the snap-back time a hair or two.
I have played around with pivot cups and bushes. I have even put an O ring in between the 2 bushes to help support the hanger. In the end its all personal preference.
Hi, when my LecDec longboard arrived it had the rear truck very tight, almost no turn when using my arms to move it. On the other side, the front truck was very loose, no kingpin thread visible.
I used this configuration for some time and tried different settings. Currently the back truck is a little more loose than originaly and the front truck a little more tight than originaly.
I like to carve around and sometimes try the speed of my longboard and I think I found a good compromise between the two for the time being.
What are your truck settings to avoid speed wooble? Symmetrical tightness settings between front and rear or different like used for downhill?
@sismeiro I think you’ll get the most benefit from trying different bushings; try different shapes and different durometers until you dial in exactly how you want it to feel. As others mention on this thread; altering the bushings (and in more advanced scenarios the truck angle) are the way to fine-tune. Just tightening (or loosening) the stock bushings won’t get you very far.
In general; higher durometers = more stability at the cost of responsive turning.
Speed wobbles are due to a lack of balance by the rider. For regular style riding, the best thing you can do to avoid speed wobbles is to ride with your knees bent. I haven’t had speed wobbles in 20 years, and my trucks are so loose they are about to fall off, and I go down big fat nasty hills.
Ive been reading through all the ‘speed wobble’ topics with interest as I came off at 25mph last month and my grade 3 AC Joint separation is only now beginning to mend.
I have standard Caliber 2 trucks and Ive just bought these bushings. Do you think they’ll make a difference? I bought 94a. I think the Calibers come with 89a standard. Also, really interested in what @psychotiller was saying about the angle of the base plate! I skated street for years but never fast. Im sure experience at speeds will develop but I really dont wana come off again like I did last month. Been a real pain in the ass (shoulder) over Xmas.
All things said in this thread are true. Removing rear Steer, Bushing setup and a wheel base that compliments you feet placement will help the most with when introducing it to speed.