SingleJingle Uphill Bingle Jingler. Single 190kv 6374 turnigy sk8 motor. 10s enertion space cell(rebuilt), clone caliber trucks, clone flywheel wheels, enertion 9mm belts, 36t wheel gear, 15t motor pulley

I wanted a simple single motor build with the ability to tow my 220lb friend on his scooter with a string. I have almost 2000 miles on the components, so she isn’t pretty. Eventually I wanna move on to MBS 110Mm wheels. I’m thinking eventually of switching to a 10 tooth motor pulley gear for a lower top speed, but higher torque.20190614_194832 20190614_194826

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It uses a 4.12 vesc with Ackmaniac firmware. Bluetooth chip by the genius Vlad Pomogaev controls my VESC with an android app over PPM. Wiring is dual 8AWG wire per phase soldered onto a 5mm banana plug. Wheels are 97mm in width, my top speed right now is 31mph, with a range of almost 12 miles of distance. I live in a seriously hilly area, and can climb up to 55° gradients. Which is also why I want to step down to a 10t pulley. Max speed at around 23mph but the gear ratio would be from 2.40:1 to 3.00:1; which I guess is 60% more torque?

why the ductape?

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Don’t go to 10T, the diameter is to small, your belts will have their life significantly cut, 14T is the minimum I would advise

That is without mentioning that you will have to run the belt tigher to avoid slipping

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I second this :point_up:Even 13 teeth is very difficult to keep tensioned enough to prevent skipping. Get another motor in this instance to increase torque would be better.

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Sick. Thanks for the input. I didn’t even think of teeth slip. To add on, my belt is worn but i’ve been using the same one for years now. I guess i’m lucky?

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What you’re witnessing is actually speed tape. Edit: should’ve added, the duct tape is like a fail safe I guess. I’ve completely shattered decks, its best for all the bits to fly away on their own. The enclosure will keep them safe.

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With a well setup drivetrain tour belt can last a lot if you are lucky that no debris get in it

With 34:12 I was breaking one belt every 150km, now I don’t remember I broke one other than rocks getting in it

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I’ve had a belt drive on my commuter @ a 3:1 ratio. Yes, it ate belts like potato chips and wore down my drive pulley (aluminum) pretty soon but I refused to abandon the gear ratio since I personally prefer torque over speed for a few other reasons beside personal preference. After spending a small fortune on belts I finally decided to switch to a 3:1 ratio chain drive.

It’s been reliable so far and in it’s second summer without repair or wear (at least not visible). I just cleaned the chain before summer and that’s it.

My SK3 5065/235KV is still pulling me after 2 years which may also be thanks to the 3:1 gear ratio.

So yes, 3:1 is great if bombing uphill is what you want to do but you might want to consider a chain drive for that. You’ll never have to worry about belt slips again.

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Are there any downsides to lowering my wheel teeth pulley? Maybe that would help the belt life if I keep the 15t motor gear, and mill a what I guess would be 45 tooth wheel pulley gear? Edit: thanks for the extra detail about gears. I figured they were consumables since they’re aluminum.

Tampa offer a 13 to 37 belt drive for their 90mm wheels. That’s pretty close to 3:1 but with a reasonable size small pulley. Also don’t forget that smaller wheel size helps your overall ratio.

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Yes keeping the 15T motor pulley while increasing the teeth of your wheel pulley to 45T should relieve the strain on your belt. Make sure your wheels can accommodate the pulley with enough ground clearance.

I used a 70mm diameter wheel on my first build and I had about 5mm clearance. I used a 12T motor pulley and 36T on the wheel. Needless to say, the torque I was getting out of my SK3 5065/280KV motor was quite respectable. Belt - ground clearance though was poor and I’d feel my belt/pulley hitting whatever was on the ground occasionally. I eventually ended up switching to 83mm Trampa Stickies because of the poor ground clearance and potential hazards to my drive train.

I still have a set of 75mm wheels that I would like to try out but I’m afraid I don’t have enough time ATM to design and print the adapters for my wheel sprocket. If you’re wondering - the 75mm wheels are softer and did a very good job dampening my longboard. Gotta keep those vibrations at a minimum. My old knees are not what they used to be.

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I been skating for almost 14 years now. I only use wheels 90mm+at this point, theres no other way to be at speed and safe unless you’re running at least 80mm wheels imo.