Yeah haha I know how to use the interface. I haven’t figured out how to install the driver without selecting the device though because for whatever reason the nano doesn’t even show up as an unknown usb serial interface or anything.
Did yours show up in device manager or are you on MAC
Here’s the chip in question
You can see it in the middle
That does sound a lot like the issue I was having until I downloaded the driver for that chip… I don’t know the technical terms but there wasn’t even showing up as connected when I checked devices in “about this Mac”. So my extremely noob diagnosis would be that you don’t have the right driver correctly installed…
Yeah that is what it is seeming like to me. I guess I shall continue to try and install haha
Man I call myself an expert and I just now tried a different usb cable -_-
Guess what. I did install the driver properly, the usb cable just didn’t work.
Okay so I am further along in my progress now, but have hit another sticky point.
The remote and receiver are both finished (soldered and everything) and I managed to get the code on both the receiver and remote. The remote boots up fine and I can enter into config mode when I use the trigger and stuff, so I think that is all good.
I have no idea how to actually get the receiver to connect to the remote, I turn both on and it just stays blinking. I made sure to change my pipe to another compatible hex number, on both sides. I don’t know what else to do at this point and I have basically read this entire post, all 1800 of them, and I don’t know what to do now.
I entered the debug mode on the transmitter side and it said failed transmission 512 over and over again, looking around it seems like other people had this issue when their board wasn’t soldered right, but I double checked mine and eveything looks right. I have the capacitors on the receiver board as well as suggested by @SeeTheBridges
Also weird thing to note, you cannot program the receiver once you put the small cap between the gnd and rst pins. That was an annoying one to figure out. Also it seems that when the receiver is powered on, the L light stays lit constantly and the rx light consistently blinks. I do not know if this is normal or not, as the lights on the transmitter show differently.
If anyone has ideas here, I know there are many people who have sucessfully completed this and I am almost there, just need a little more help.
first of all dont just solder cap between reset and ground. i suggest you do it following way and you shouldnt have problems with uploading a sketch. connect reset to positive end of the cap(10uF) and negative end of the cap goes to 470 ohm resistor and the other leg of the resistor goes to the ground this way you wont damage anything and you shouldnt have issues with uploading a sketch. like this RESET — (+)Cap(-)—470ohm—Gnd 
crappy illustration. for the other issue you have i would check again the wiring of the nrf and the solder job. try another sketch etc…
I also had the same issues - couple of things…
I wrapped both nrf modules in copper tape, leaving only the antenna exposed. Pretty sure that’s what fixed it for me.
But also, I read that the receiver doesn’t get enough power to run the nrf chip when it’s powered by usb. So I wasn’t too worried about not getting a great connection when desk testing.
All the same, mine connects fine with the receiver powered by usb since I did the shielding.
oh yes and theres the power issue if you are using those blue arduinos they wont be able to feed required current to nrf. copper tape is a good idea too just make sure to put something non conductive like kapton tape underneath
Interesting I’ll try this, the capacitor I’m using for the reset issue isn’t polarized but I’ll try putting the 470 ohm resistor and see if that helps.
I can see that making sense, USB is only 500mA on a standard port, but mine is plugged into my VESC so I don’t think that was the issue. I will try shielding the nrf modules and report back about that.
Do you have to do anything to connect the rwo or is it just supposed to be automatic?
I’m actually using the nice black ones that the original maker used for mine
when pipes are matching they should connect automatically and yes non polarised caps like ceramic ones work too
Hey Guys! Just saw the possibility to turn on and off the lights by using an Turnigy receiver switch https://www.amazon.de/Hobby-King-Turnigy-Receiver-Controlled/dp/B012W6RJ5I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1543414701&sr=8-6&keywords=receiver+switch there fore a 2nd channel is needed on the remote would this be possible with the firefly? what has to be changed? KR
Hey @SolidGeek jeg har svært ved at finde delene billigt i danmark/EU… Gør du dig i at sælge et komplet sæt, en færdiglavet remote og receiver eller bare nogen af delene? Jeg søger specielt en UIOTEC SMD NRF24L01 billigere end 26€ det står til på amazon
Actually a second channel is not needed. You just have to add a boolean variable to the datastructure that is being sent with the RF24 library. You will have to update the structure on both receiver and transmitter site
I know you guys probably feel like this has been explained a few times already… but how does the calibration process work? The throttle/brake in my remote seems to jump from 0 to 100% and I can’t navigate the menus.
I have managed to work out what is meant by “uncomment #define DEBUG…”, and get the following output from serial monitor:
I can’t see anything in the output about maxHallValue or minHallValue… what should I be looking for?
EDIT:
Durrr… This explains my troubles navigating the settings menu… will rectify this tomorrow!
Hahaha I’ve just realised why I’ve had so many issues getting this remote working. I was getting only 100% or nil throttle, and I couldn’t get any brake. I’d switch the magnets and I got all brake, no throttle.
My hall effect sensors from ali express basically just never showed up, so I bought what I thought was a suitable replacement from a local electronics store.
Turns out I bought a hall effect switch. It either outputs a voltage or it doesn’t. No amount of tweaking the software or fiddling with the magnets was going to fix it.
So yeah… don’t do that guys.
Just a quick question the remote seems to turn on maybe one out of 7 times. When the blue and green light on arduino come on it will not turn on. I have to cycle the switch a few times. But if I turn it on and press the reset button it fires up every time. What have I stuffed up. Do I need a cap somewhere?
Never mind. Placed a cap between reset and ground. Problem fixed.
Thx @solidgeek and @SeeTheBridges for all the know how to build the remote Any way to donate this? Let me know😉 Kr sharky
SolidGeeks has a donation link here!
