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Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled

electronics
remote
3d

#1371

I was thinking of trimming all the sides off and just soldering to the gnd which I think connects directly to the side of the board. Correct me if I’m wrong on that. That would make it about the same size.


#1372

if you have something like a dremel tool i think you can make some adjustments on the shell to make it fit. just connect a usb c cable to a phone charger and see exactly which pads are 5v-gnd using a multimeter, trim the excess pcb. try to fit it if not enlarge the usb hole with a dremel.


#1373

Good point, I’ll probably have the parts in like 1-2 months I’ll let you guys know how it goes down. On a side note, will I have to change anything with the boost converter or anything?


#1374

Hey everyone, I was looking at the Hall-Effect sensor (SS495A) and found that it costs about 24 USD to ship to Canada (My country) This one costs 8.18 usd and I’m 99% sure its the exact same one as in the shopping list provided by @solidgeek above. If someone could double check that it’s the same that’d be great!


#1375

That Hall sensor should work fine. If you Dremel that PCB on the USB C, assuming you don’t short anything in the process, it might work.


#1376

Alright, I’m ordering 2 just in case. Also keep up the videos they really help out a lot :slight_smile:


#1377

Glad I can help :smiley: I’m gonna try and finish the script for the next part tonight and hopefully have it up by next week!


#1378

or if we are making a pcb anyway, add this conroller:
https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/UTC2000
“Transition any existing USB Type-A design to a USB Type-CTM Downstream Facing Port or any existing Type-B design to a USB Type-C Upstream Facing Port”

and
http://www.ti.com/product/BQ25703A/

but i guess to make it safe, it can get rather complex
https://www.synopsys.com/designware-ip/technical-bulletin/converting-existing-designs.html
https://www.scorpia.co.uk/2016/03/17/using-usb-type-c-on-hobyist-projects/


#1379

travo , use digikey.ca for electronics components, there’s no point on using ebay. Digikey has overnight shipping 8$ and free for orders over 100$. Those hall sensors are super cheap, around 5$ if you buy only one.

https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/honeywell-sensing-and-productivity-solutions/SS495A/480-2005-ND/701360


#1380

Thanks so much! Shipping isn’t too important as I’m still waiting on almost every part required for the build. But digi key is definitely more reliable.


#1381

When i say overnight shipping 8$, i mean that’s the only shipping option they offer. So try and bulk up a few items into one order.


#1382

Just printed the outer shell and it looks fantastic!


#1383

Not entirely related to the discussion but if anyone wants a reliable cheap 3d printer in my experience you cannot go wrong with the Anet A8 (I got mine from gearbest). I’ve had mine for over a year and it still works fine.( I’ve only replaced the heat block, nozzle and tube which is just considered regular maintenance and is super cheap to do).


#1384

If you get an Anet A8, just make sure to turn on the safety features in the firmware! They don’t come turned on by default and I’ve heard stories of them catching fire because of that


#1385

Jeez I didn’t know about that?! Thanks for letting me know, I am attaching a MOSFET so that should help on safety but thanks for he heads up!!


#1386

Check out this guide if you need help setting up all the safety features!

EDIT: I dont wanna double post so here’s part 4 of my guide btw for everyone else.


#1387

Great, thanks. Hyped for part 5


#1388

I ordered the ardiuno from the provided link about a week ago and the seller has still not started shipping or replied to my messages. Is anyone else having this problem?


#1389

I was having issues with them as well. Send them a message at the end of your processing time if they haven’t shipped it, and they should ship it before the time expires. I’ve dealt with them thru AliExpress and directly. You’ll get your arduino, don’t worry


#1390

What is the killswitch vs cruise trigger type? I cant get mine to do anything when I change it.
Also, who is using control over UART only? Any issues?