I am pretty sure the problem with your receiver is a power issue, especially because it works powered by USB You could try to add a few different bypass capacitors on the receivers power line, to filter out any noise or maybe add an LC filter as one suggested. Are you using a standard Arduino Nano, or the one I recommend?
If you are trying out my development branch, and you have a VESC 4 you will have to use this branch of RollingGeckos library:
Did someone tested the NRF Remote in a Dual VESC Setup (ackmaniacs Firmware) with Bluetooth module connected simultaneously to a Smartphone to get Telemetry data tracked/captured?
So the Pulse Echo matches this description and I have been trying for so long to no avail to get both working. Honestly, I canāt get any telemetry from my Firefly but the included BT module works fine.
If you can get the TX and RX but no telemetry.
You need go into the setting of Controller and select PPM and switch back PPM/UART again. Is if that will fix.
That because rxSettings.controlMode is == 0; so you might not getting a read back.
if ( rxSettings.controlMode != 0 ) {
getUartData();
radio.writeAckPayload(1, &returnData, sizeof(returnData));
}
So a low pass filter should fix this power issueā¦ Have any thoughts on maybe using this one? I figure the nano canāt pull more than 5V 1A right? Space is currently a HUGE premium for me in the Echo enclosure
Thanks for the reply, I was thinking to use usb cable as my power and attach the capacitor to it but I ll try the LC filter like @ervinelin did.
@SeeTheBridges routing a reset button just feels like poor mans solution to the problem. Need something proper and refined. Iām sure lc filter or powering from usb socket will work. Iām powering transmitter from usb socket and works without a problem, not using the 5V line.
So I was talking to deakbannok on discord last night and he helped me get my telemetry working on his separate fork! (Turns out I wasnāt making sufficient contact to the VESC UART terminals ) he also told me that the power issues might just be down to low quality capacitors. I did a bunch of research last night when he suggested looking specifically for low ESR caps instead of using an LC filter, and the first person drone racing community has done a TON of real world comparison testing between them already. What I learned was that low ESR caps are preferable, but an LC filter is better than a cheap capacitor.
SO, Iām gonnna say the wiki should be ammended to include a line about making sure to find a high quality name brand low ESR cap since it should be cheaper than even the micro LC filter that I ordered last night. Due to space constraints though, I may use the micro filter instead tho since it appears to be TINY compared to the caps I do I have right now
Itās a real pain, just yesterday night I spent HOURS trying to figure out why I need to do the same on my transmitter after I replaced some parts on itā¦ It needs a hard reset in order to get going.
Same thing for my receivers, but receiver problem seem to have been resolved by doing 2 things. 1 - Include and LC filter, 2 - Place the receiver as far away from the main power lines as possible.
Googling this symptom has found that there might be a solution by soldering a capacitor between the reset and ground pins on the arduino. Iāll try and see if it works.
Iāve got my own custom-designed remote that also uses Arduinos + NRF modules and by coincidence happens to be basically identical to @solidgeekās system. Iām having some odd issues where it begins to lose connection (or rather, the signal gets weaker) the longer I ride, to the point (usually after 30 minutes or so) where simply holding the remote above waist height is enough to break the connection. I tested leaving the board and remote switched on for a couple of hours and they still functioned perfectly, so I decided it must be something to do with heat (based on some other very non-scientific experiments it seems to be related specifically to Focbox heat). I have a 220uf cap on the power from the Focbox but none between the chinese clone Arduino and the NRF module, so thatās what Iāll try next. I also hadnāt realised that low-ESR caps existed and I never considered that my cap my be very low quality, just being a cheap chinese one.
Iām really confused how it could be heat related though, especially on the receiver. Maybe the Arduinoās power regulator is really bad and gets worse as it gets hotter? That seems weird to me but maybe itās normal.
Either way Iām very interested in this thread since itās basically helping me solve my custom remoteās issues
Hi, IĀ“m selling a full kit to build the remote. I would offer the following parts:
2 * magnets (5mm)
Boost converter
Lipo charger
3.7V battery
OLED display
2 * Arduino Nano
2 * nRF24L01 (one already soldered)
Hall sensor
Micro USB
Power switch
Spring
Limit switch
all 3D printed Parts
Price: 40ā¬ plus shipping
If anyone is interested just send me a PM
Just wired up my micro LC filter annnndddd it didnāt work. Maybe a bigger one is necessary? these micro ones are rated for 16V1A, but I guess thatās not enough. I tried it both by itself and with my 220uF capacitor wried before it. Maybe the cap needs to come AFTER the LC filter? idk.
EDIT: Tried putting the cap on the output of the LC filter too. Still didnāt fix the issue. Honestly Iām not sure what else to try
Did you try connecting directly to 5v line without lc filter or a cap? See if it works that way at least you will know if they have any effect or not. Last resort would be connecting via usb socket. When I get home I ll try it. Taking the insulation off around the plug makes it super small and viable.
Post #55 explains it. Assuming it is only for more stable connection it should at least work without it. Because in our situation arduino just plays dead. Thatās whole another problem.
You could try to add a few different bypass capacitors on the receivers power line, to filter out any noise or maybe add an LC filter as one suggested. Are you using a standard Arduino Nano, or the one I recommend?
) he also told me that the power issues might just be down to low quality capacitors. I did a bunch of research last night when he suggested looking specifically for low ESR caps instead of using an LC filter, and the first person drone racing community has done a TON of real world comparison testing between them already. What I learned was that low ESR caps are preferable, but an LC filter is better than a cheap capacitor.
