Deadman’s switch is right under the middle finger. Hold the remote and it activates. I also adjusted the code so this only limits thorttle not brakes, realised after my first ride that I want brakes to be available all the time regardless of Deadman switch position… Good for those panicked moments!
First test ride was not good, several small issues one of which being the remote needs several hard resets to fire up, I suspect the capacitor is problematic. Will try another cap.
Also my receiver for some reason cuts out when the board is jolted… Very risky… Suspect it’s a loose connector somewhere…
For me I had to do two things, the first was to calibrate the remote. So you go in and adjust the midpoint as well as the ends based on the serial output.
After this I had to adjust the PPM limits within the VESC software (using older version)
Doesn’t look pretty but it looks operational
Last night I left it for charging and after that when I tried to turn it on it was like dead no lights or anything. I checked the booster it had voltage so up until arduino everything was fine. Then I unplugged the usb(I power the arduino thru it’s usb socket) and tried another source of power again nothing. Then assembled it the way it was and it started to work again. Has anyone encountered this situation?
Will do thanks, it works ok for now I ll measure 5v output if it fails again. In the meantime wiring my receiver and adding this logic level converter to Tx/rx channels. I dunno if it’s going to work tho.
Did you upload a new version to the receiver?
reset your on receiver EEPROM see that will do if not then you might have the same problem I had earlier.
Just finished the receiver. Is there any way to check if it’s working or not without connecting it to the vesc? When I power up the transmitter and the receiver, wireless icon on the screen becomes solid. Is that a good indication that there’s connection?
Havent finished mine yet, but im assuming that thats a good sign. I would say it is paired when it becomes solid.
I’ve got at question to some code geniuses what should i change if i need to different remotes for 2 boards. I would assume you need to different “addresses” or something.
@moon
my transmitter battery came with some cheap 30awg wires. if the required current can flow from those cables i would assume 30 awg silicone wires are ok. i used them for signals and some 26 awg for power but i dont think 26 is necessary tho im not expert just my opinion.
@Zyb yes, if it’s not connected it’ll be flashing.
@Migro You’d want to edit the pipe ID in both the receiver code and the transmitter code.
You can generate a valid new pipe id on this website (it has to be hexadecimal). On that site, enter base: 16, length: 10 and amount: 1.
Then you just need to add 0x in front and LL at the back.
(So if the site gives you 6188F15ED0 you want to add 0x in front and LL at the back so it becomes 0x6188F15ED0LL)
Edit: I’m also maybe thinking of writing some code to auto pair on first boot. (And then maybe multiple boards in the config menu :D)
Here is my controller.
I have the cruise control running and option to switch safety on and off. fixing the flow on the receiver and controller. also I will to short down the codes.
Arduino Nano capacity is only 30720 btyes
I just got the new adafruit nrf52 modules delivered, so ill be building with those.
@solidgeek any way i can get my hand on something more editable than a stl?
