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Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled

electronics
remote
3d

#724

there is no digital pin on the feather


#725

What are all those Purple labeled pins then?


#726

if you saw the pic it said the purple/green ones were ide


#727

Yeah, does that mean the rest are not addressable?


#728

to be honest, im not sure. since though i only need to wire up the oled and micro switch and hall sensor. all of them go to analog pins except for the microswitch. thats the pin in question


#729

actually its only 2 pins that are ide. the key on the diagram doesnt show what purple is.
hmm…


#730

Yeah… Im pretty sure the rest are addressable as digital pins? It wouldn’t make sense for them not to be. It even says you can set most of them to PWM too so they HAVE to be addressable somehow.


#731

alright then we solved the problem. thanks a million man.
cant wait to start ordering.


#732

Onboard nrf, lipo charger, booster. Its a much more elegant solution.


#733

So will this work with a vesc-6?


#734

Yes I mirrored the STL on all the parts and the display is still fit perfect. I will do the right hand for my friend later.


#735

Quite elegant, but no booster on this board. Everything is at 3.3v


#736

@dg798 As I mentioned earlier I recommend using the Adafruit Feather 328P, as this has the same pins as an Arduino Nano. The NRF54 version is NOT compatible with my software at all, as this module is using Bluetooth.

The feather 328P should be compatible with all software and hardware, except that you will need a 3.3V Hall sensor instead.

EDIT: The Adafruit Feather M0 Basic Proto should also work

@bimmer Actually I got a VESC 6, and as long as you use the right library from RollingGecko it works just fine.


#737

PCBs are in!!! Made some small mistakes but doesn’t affect functionality…

Unfortunately I misjudged how thick the stack becomes when I use headers… So I had to get creative to flatten the stack to fit.


Bare PCBs


So much easier to solder than 1001 wires!!


NRF module is at the bottom


Pin headers made the stack too thick


Had to get creative with the soldering to flatten the stack


I should have flipped the Arduino so the usb doesn’t get blocked by the lipo… Sigh…

Now if my 3D printer could just cooperate with me that would be great…


#738

It is completely neat and compact.


#739

That looks amazing. They did the same thing on my bms from bestech

Whats your reason for the lipy battery you choose?


#740

I know it says that but I looked at the Nordic website for the chip and it says it’s on air compatible with an nrf24l module


#741

Also the 328p and Proto M0 doesn’t have any d pins either if I’m not mistaken


#742

Ah so I am not so creative after all with my soldering!!

As for lipo… It’s what I had lying around, also it fits, can easily buy more of the exact same size if I wanted, plus it has higher capacity so you can go without charging for a long time…

Only problem is you gotta solder direct to the lipo…


#743

@ervinelin i see.



Can anyone explain why something gets so hot that it melts the plastic?
I think it is when i charge but not sure. The middle divider also bend. The charge module was melted into the plastic as you can see in second picture it left a mark from one of the corners. :confused: