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Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled



Would it be possible with this remote to program the receiver to switch modes on the VESC like you can with some other bluetooth apps (e.g. Ackmaniac)?


Technically, yea


Let’s say for now I only wanted to use ppm and not uart, how would I wire that with the arduino and can I?


I would recommend buying Adafruit Feather 328P if you consider using one of their boards. The Feathers run at 3.3V so you will have to find another Hall sensor, as the one I use has a min voltage of 4.5V.

Wirering the receiver Arduino to PPM is easy. Connect pin 5 on Arduino to PPM, and of course, 5V to 5V and GND to GND.


So I looked at the 328p but it doesn’t have a built in nfr24 module


This is the hall sensor I’m getting. Will it work with the arduino that I want to get?


Is this what I’m looking for?

Also do I need to get magnets? If so where do they go exactly?


If I wanted to do uart as well where can I find a uart cable or something like that?


hi Predatorboards
I would like one remote.
can you ship to Tel Aviv?


@solidgeek can you add a Option to use a 128x64 oled. I think its more reliable.



So I’ve gotten many many kilometers in using my hacked mini remote (see above Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled). I’m still waiting for solidgeek’s latest firmware upgrade but in the meanwhile I’ll stick to the older version which has worked well for me.

In the meantime, I wanted to make it easier replicate build this remote without all that dremeling and with less need for 1001 wires running all over the place.

So the only way was to DIY a PCB for all the parts and to design a new enclosure for it. Again my personal preference is a trigger throttle over a thumb wheel, so my design is catered for that. It’s also meant to be ambidextrous, so you can use it in either hand (OLED needs to be flipped either digitally or physically… still not sure if it’s possile). It’s still work in progress but I’ve got all the parts and the PCB should reach me soon.

Here’s some images of my progress thus far:

3D model showing where the stacked custom PCB will go

For the trigger, I’m using a skate bearing. Not 100% necessary but I thought it’s an interesting touch

Here’s a terrible unfinished print of the remote (my printer really sucks) but you can get an idea of how big it is

You can see the cutout for the OLED on the top instead of the side (ambidextrous), below that is the mode switch then the power switch. Under the middle finger is a dead man’s switch to prevent accidental throttling up when the remote is not held in the hand (necessary feature after I busted my finger getting caught in the gears because I accidentally hit the trigger).

If it works out well I’ll release the PCB files and STLs… wish me luck!


@ervinelin I’m interested for sure. Coming from RC, I prefer the trigger as opposed to thumb throttle.


hello all!, I have not been very active on this forum yet, but I think I will build a Eskate soon😊
Here I made a waterproof remote casing, if anyone is interested.
I know it is a bit big, but it is to make it stay afloat in water.

the Files are on thingieverse

more info and link to Efoilbilders can be found on thingiverse.


Not many will need a remote to float in water because most of us rides on land


Nice work! I like your design very much, and the idea of adding a bearing to the throttle is very interesting :smiley: Regarding the PCB wouldn’t you still need a boost and charger board, or is it integrated on the bottom of the PCB?

I have also been working on a custom PCB for the remote for a while now, with all needed parts (atmega, regulators etc), however I still have a lot to do and learn about PCB design :slight_smile:


@Twinsen I know what you mean, I always find thumbwheels very unnatural to operate.

@solidgeek It’s 2 PCBs stacked on top of each other, the DC booster, Lipo charger and NRF module go onto the bottom PCB (not seen in the image I shared).

DIY-Remote-PCB-Top (1)
Here’s the top PCB, some of the pins connect to the bottom PCB (NRF and Batt pins)

Here’s the bottom PCB which holds the DC boost, lipo charger, 10k resistor and 220uF cap, the NRF module is soldered to the back (pins running down the right).

The PCB just reached my post office, awaiting for it to be delivered to my home. I should be able to get it by the end of the week.

For those interested, I used EasyEDA for this, drew the schematic but I had to customise the board layout as they did not have most of the parts in the library.

I’m a total noob at this, and this is my very first DIY PCB so I’m keeping my fingers crossed that it turns out well. I could have saved a lot more space by compressing all the components into a custom board with inbuilt regulators and such but I have no skill to do something like this, so it’s just off the shelf components which then get soldered to the PCB.

As for the enclosure design, the trigger works well, nice and smooth because of the bearing (still some friction due to spring arm and all). However I ran into some issues with the buttons, will need some adjustments to make sure they work well and don’t get stuck.


A-WE-SO-ME! :+1::smiley:
waiting for release!


For all those interested I compiled a list of things to buy, all from Aliexpress so it’s just easier to track everything. Some smaller items like caps, resistors, screws I just got them from the local hardware shop.

Do note that I have personally ordered these items and they work for me, your mileage might vary. Also some sellers are much faster at shipping than others.


Glad to see another people using easyeda ! :grinning:
For sure it misses a lot of component.
But it’s a collaborative tool, so you can create your own component, they will be shared with other users :wink:
You can also use components of other people.

Did you use the EasyEDA “fabrication output” ?
I used it for a batch of 10x little PCBs. Very cheap (10$ shipped) and pretty good quality.


That’s exactly what I did, designed and fabricated using EasyEDA.

PCBs are cheap as chips, was very surprised. They were also shipped out pretty quickly, less than a week from time or ordering.

BTW, I also created a receiver board PCB, will be easy as pie to wire up the NRF module now as compared to before when I needed 7 or 8 tiny wires between the module and the arduino!