Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled

It could just be my printer that causes the problem as you can see the curved sides is bad but my question is about the micro usb? Was it suposed to be all the way down into the bottom shell?

And also one other question is what this should be connected to? what pin is that? image

im wondering about that pin too :confused:

Do you have the problem with the micro usb?

Well that doesn’t look right at all. The micro USB should fit.

Regarding the batteryMeasurePin, if you look at the code its used to measure the remote’s battery voltage, and is defined as “const int batteryMeasurePin = A2;”. It’s connected to pin A2.

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ohhhhhhhh. shit. That wasn’t on the schematic… Im in the middle of a build guide and the fact that I completely missed that is gonna be HELLA unfortunate :sweat_smile:

Okay thanks. I guess my printer thats sucks at the moment… :sweat_smile: Nothing else to do than try prin a new one tomorrow. What have you done to get the microswitch wired and mounted @solidgeek ?

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@SeeTheBridges Haha sorry for that! But wow, I am glad you would take your time to share your experience and help out. I know the documentation lacks a lot, so I appreciate it a lot :slight_smile:

@Migro I bent the legs up toward the top, press them against a flat table or something :slight_smile:

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Thanks. Now i just need to fix my print and make the reciever. And ofcourse wait for the weather… :grinning: Keep up the work :slight_smile:

Once again i seek ur help. Do i need to change something in the code or am i doing something wrong?

As you can see i cant change settings (maybe doing something wrong) but saw one of your videos where i think im doing the same. Im not getting the full motion of the wheel at the moment.

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You got the exact same problem as @SeeTheBridges, and it should be fixed in the new update I am releasing tomorrow :slight_smile: The problem is that the magnets are not as strong as the ones I have bought, and therefore not giving the same hall sensor reading. If you want a quick fix go to the function controlSettingsMenu() and change the value 150 to a higher value (try with 300).

Okay thanks seemed to do the job. :slight_smile: Figured out how to use the settings but dont know what everything does.

How would I connect the VESC to the arduino? Can anyone send me a picture of their exact wiring setup from connecting the VESC to the arduino.

Thanks.

Also anyone who lives in the US got extra 5mm magnets that I can have? Kinda at a time crunch rn and I would love to get the magnets soon. Willing to buy them.

I bought these from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0038A4MKI however not sure if you can find anything like it on the international Amazon.

Regarding connecting VESC to Arduino, if I remember correctly the connections should be as follows:

Arduino - VESC GND → GND 5V → 5V RX → TX TX → RX (you could add a voltage divider here) PIN 5 → PPM

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I have also been looking at hall sensors. Can I use this hall sensor? If not, why?

https://www.amazon.com/A3144-A3144E-OH3144E-Effect-Sensor/dp/B00ATNJH20/ref=zg_bs_306929011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NYCKM46V6XEBW3KR8XD1

@solidgeek Have you changed the size of the bolt holes since you started working on the firefly? The bolts on the parts list didn’t end up fitting into my enclosure at all. I had to expand the screw holes to make some of them work. It feels like the bolts needed to go down around maybe an M2.5 size screw…

Check that your printer is printing the hole sizes accurately. It’s very common for holes to print much smaller than they should be.

I’d love to check that, buuuttttt I’m using school printers. And I have no idea how to check. They’re makerbot V3s?

where are these ground wires supposed to connect to? i am new to electronics so please pardon my incompetencies.

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Just measure the holes?