Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled

Yea I’m in London but can ship globally for pretty cheap (non-tracked though). You?

Cool, let me know and I’ll do a few runs. I can probably get 6 or so full prints out of a resin tank.

I’ve been following this thread while on a work trip and am finally back and exited to try this out!

I JUST printed a test print with my very first 3D printer and it went well :slight_smile:

@solidgeek I may have missed it somewhere in this thread, but do you have any tips on ideal settings for this particular print (infill, etc)? I’ll be using PLA for now, until I buy/experiment with other filaments.

@navgor London too baby! Amazing! Well let’s keep in touch :wink:

Are you planning to put you’re own remote By yourself or would you rather buy assembled one?

Nice one! I’m East London, (London Fields), you nearby? Yea I’ll be printing my own. Shall I let you know when I do a do a run for you as well?

Sure ! I’m south - Brixton.

As I mentioned- I’ll hold off until I have final design and files, otherwise printing few times will make it very expensive DIY remote hahha;) but would love to see how this resin print look in real life. Do you have all parts? I have some ordered in bulk so I can sell few off to you, you’ll save on shipping and etc.

I have the Arduino, OLED and charger/boost circuit.Yea I’ll buy the rest of the parts off you if you have them all.

Oke… I’m following this thread for some time now. @solidgeek you have made an awesome remote sir! I’m definitely want one. I’m also like the idea from @MontPierre to get ride of the leds or replace them with buttons. This makes the remote more stealthy as esk8 are illegal in the Netherlands. So I don’t want raise suspicion with the police with bright shiny leds :wink:

I’m in!

Hello @SolidGeek, what program are you using to layout your new pcb? Just joined the thread and love the design you have so far. Looking to build my skateboard this year if time permits.

Hey @solidgeek, awesome work! You may could help me with some easy answers^^ -The receiver part consists of just a nrf chip, no arduino? And how is that wired to vesc? Would be a nice additive in your github. -OLED is 0.91inch - 128x32pixels? -The switch on ‘‘D4’’ is it for cruise control? -And i assume instead of the hall sensor i can use a pot? They do the same from what i understand.

And if you have some parts left or a set let me know, i buy yours then instead of ordering;)

Cheers!

Hi! Awesome work! I’d like to be a beta tester too if possible. Iam from germany and I have a dual VESC 6 Mountainboard.

It’s difficult to find a potentiometer that doesn’t have a long threaded shaft for mounting it in and therefore is pretty big. Basically I’ve found the ones for guitars and other audio equipment (beware linear vs tapered http://www.resistorguide.com/potentiometer-taper/ ) or the very small surface mount ones that are hard to attach to a trigger or wheel. The advantage with the hall sensor is there is no extra resistance from the knob itself and it’s easier to make it fit in a compact design, I’m currently redoing my own design here with a trigger control and using a pot but because of the size of the potentiometer I need it to stick out of the side or make the remote thick.

Regarding electronics for this project there is an arduino nano involved for reading the values and passing the data along to the nrf chip to transmit to the receiver. I believe the nrf chips can be reprogrammed directly but pretty sure there is no ADC to read the sensor/knob position so still need some other MCU. There are other boards like the ESP8266 with a MCU and transceiver on one board but they are made to work on wifi and likely have more latency without doing extra work to change the default protocols.

Anyhow for parts for this project it’s linked above:


Still working tweaks of a new version here (very blocky right now but just getting dimensions on the guts worked out and can push things out afterwards to smooth it out) https://cad.onshape.com/documents/50e9e32d777391df91fbe5a9/w/19598faab2182f3b574dcfaf/e/52a747c0c2e141ee735a22b8

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^^ is writing the data to Digital Pin 5 so the receiver signal wire should go to digital pin 5 the arduino can get power through vin (goes through votlage regulator) or if you trust the BEC then can go into the 5V if it supplies regulated 5V well.

I also have more explanation of setting things up and wiring on my github:

Believe @solidgeek mentioned doing a video at some point to explain the build/programming that’s probably the best way to communicate all this for people who aren’t already familiar with arduino or the nrf chips.

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i Think i found one, could it work? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/V3-Wireless-module-NodeMcu-4M-bytes-Lua-WIFI-Internet-of-Things-development-board-based-ESP8266-esp/32647542733.html?spm=2114.33020108.13.9.95WBOB&scm=1007.12851.33061.0 …need to find one without headers now

NodeMCU is not Arduino, but you can program it in Arduino IDE with right libraries. The code is running on ESP8266 itself. Also I wouldn’t worry about headers, you can easily desolder them or just cut them with pliers.

Adfruit makes Feathers with NRF52 BLE already integrated, you can comunicate nrf52 with nrf24.

This would solve, charging, lipo and nrf all in one.

whats status on betas?

@landonkun Well I got a few tips printing the remote casing :slight_smile: I have written something about it on my Github page: https://github.com/MrSolidGeek/nRF24-Esk8-Remote/wiki/1.-Housing-and-mechanism

@Martijn Well I have been thinking about removing the LEDS for quite some time, they are the remnants of the first remove I designed without an OLED. All information is displayed on the OLED, so maybe I should just get rid of the LEDS :slight_smile: What do you guys think?

@Genius2017 I use Eagle mostly, however, more recently I began learning Altium (pretty heavy program - and not free) :slight_smile:

@Nordle Thanks mate! The receiver part consists of an Arduino and the nRF24. However, it should be possible to connect an nRF24 module directly to a VESC. However, I have not tested it yet - seems rather complicated. The switch is used as a “kill switch” as standard but will be changeable through the interface. (I can see that your answer has already been answered - thanks, guys :slight_smile:)

@Necromenz I do not have the spare parts at the moment to make you a beta… But I will add you to the list for the next batch :stuck_out_tongue:

@Jammeslu Status on betas is that I got all the parts in house, with the exception of some JST connectors for the receiver - does anyone know where I can get those? China isn’t a option, to long delivery time! I need a week or two to finish the remotes as I only get to work on them in the weekends - I study (and live) a few hours away from my workshop… I hope to make the first test unit this weekend, and if it goes well I assemble the rest :slight_smile:

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Wow that wiki information is fantastic! Keep it up! :smile:

I think the LEDs are unnecessary if you’ve got a screen.

I buy JST connectors from eBay. Just filter by whatever country you’re in, like so:

@solidgeek where are you? if you’re in the US/Canada use digikey, 8$ overnight shipping.