Yes me too
Thanks guys, def a weak joint or lack of shielding as with the parts pulled apart, I get a reliable connection. Thanks!
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Right, so, remote now gives a very reliable connection but the pulsewidth display in BLDC tool is terrible, it seems like the receiver is only getting a position report every so often. Certainly not smooth. Is this likely to be a shileding issue at the receiver end?
I’m stating to thing these nRF24 modules I have aren’t great (built in, very small antenna).
The pulsewidth display in my BLDC tool also doesn’t look as “clean” as I think it should.
However, in real world riding it works just fine.
My only gripe is that I can’t get the entire throw of the trigger to spread across the entire throttle band, meaning to say I hit 100% throttle when I am only at maybe half of the max throw.
Already tried to calibrate as much as I could, didn’t seem to help.
I have an issue with my temporary RC car remote where the brake travel is much less than the throttle. This means the neutral position doesn’t sit at 50% no matter how much I trim. This meant I’d have to sacrifice some throttle or brake in order for the motor not to spin or have brakes applied at neutral position.
I used this, awesome, extended firmware from @Ackmaniac http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/extended-ackmaniac-esc-tool-based-on-vesc-tool/35116
It has an awesome little wizard (very much like the old windows game controller calibrator) that sorts your controls out in no time. You can also manually set the neutral position.
I’m wondering if it may help you out?
Pretty much the problem with the nano/winning, is that bench or in use?
Sorry hit the wrong button on my phone.
ok and tried many times, and with different codes even those of example and do not communicate the two nrf24
I do not know what’s going on
all conections is okey and revised lot of times
okey i’m fixed with a capacitor in two arduinos
In use it seems fine, would be better if the control was finer but I’ve gone many kilometers with it as it is… So “don’t fix what isn’t broken”
again it does not work, the capacitor was temporary, but it does not work, they do not communicate
I do not know what to do
what libraries have you used?
I have a proposition…
We currently use these remotes on the Banshee. Damn solid construction and a pretty much mechanical imitation of the Boosted remote. What’s stopping me from releasing these to the DIY market is the fact that the manufacturer doesn’t want to make new circuitry for pairing with a standard RX/TX receiver.
I’m thinking of just selling this remote as a standalone and letting y’all figure out the electronics bit.
For those who have a 3D printer and want the pulsewidth display, then by all means go with the current firefly design. However I’m interested in figuring out a slightly less complicated approach for those looking for a half decent thumb throttle remote for their DIYs.
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I like the imitation of the boosted board remote. I maybe want one remote to disassemble and try to fit al the components of the lcd remote in it. What would be the price?
For early tinkerers who think they can help jumpstart this ‘hack’… let’s say 20$. Should be enough to cover the costs and shipping, though I may charge extra depending on how things pan out with the manufacturer.
I think that’s a pretty reasonable price, given the magnets + spring + battery is already more than 10$
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Hey @solidgeek, did you ever have an issue monitoring the serial on the transmitter when it’s fully wired up? My nano isn’t even recognised by my computer if it’s completely wired up. After a little googling, I have to disconnect pin 13 and then the nano connects great. The problem with this is that pin 13 is used by the nRF24 module and so I can’t debug my transmission issues. Any ideas?
Is that USD? I only ask because you’ve put the $ sign on the wrong side of the number so I feel like you’re not from the US.
EDIT: Don’t mind me, your profile says you’re in California.
I’m about as American as you get.
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Fixed that for you 
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Can someone send a schematic for how the receiver is setup. I know the Arduino and module is like in the remote. But how are they connected to the VESC?
Has anyone succesfully made the remote fully working no problem?