I’ll have a look there. If I had a source file of the enclosure it would be much easier to edit 
True. Though, you could still drill a hole for the button and just design the cap to fit tht hole
Yes but I would need to need to mount switch just below it, so a change in design is needed anyway, might just design hole myself plus a socket for the switch, to hold it in place…
What settings would you advise using if you have a dual motor setup? (just waiting on a final part before building it!)
As I mentioned previously, I prefer an index finger trigger as opposed to a thumb wheel throttle.
So I hacked a mini 2.4ghz remote I had lying around and replaced the internals with the same parts as the remote here (less the hall sensor, I used the remote potentiometer instead, I am also trying a smaller pololu step up instead of the one listed, just hope it can provide enough current).
Here’s my progress thus far… Everything fits after some creative dremelling. I am left with the nrf module but that shouldn’t be a problem as well.
Arduino sits on the battery (not shown here)
Will update more when it’s done and I have field tested it.
14 Likes
this would be awesome. You would be totally independent of any actual driving control. can anyone design a socket for that? guess ill order some.
I managed to finish up the mini remote hack, here are some images of the completed product.
NRF module fits behind the battery compartment
Arduino sits on top of the battery
USB charging port
Used instamorph to close up the holes then drilled a new one to fit a single button which replaces the trigger button in the solidgeeks remote. Technically you can add more buttons here too.
Took me a while to get the throttle range calibrated and synced up with vesc but it works nonetheless. Telemetry is coming in as expected and range is more than enough for esk8.
7 Likes
Id be down to buy one from somebody here
I would buy either version as long as it has the safety push button/pull trigger then throttle. My little likes to pull the throttle when I am not looking so any kind of “do this then that” mechanism is awesome.
I actually coded it out so I don’t need the safety or dead man’s switch to throttle up.
For me i make it a habit to turn off the transmitter when I am not actually riding.
Field tested, works as expected, 8km ride with no dropouts.
One tip, don’t get distracted by reading the telemetry data and losing your focus on the road ahead… 
2 Likes
There’s a piece of the code which reads:
if (triggerActive())
{
throttle = throttle;
} else
{
// 127 is the middle position - no throttle and no brake/reverse
throttle = 127;
}
that basically means you need to the trigger for the thumbwheel to act as throttle, otherwise it’s just neutral.
I replaced that piece of the code with just throttle = throttle;
Please test on bench after changing the code!!!
I am still getting a strange pairing problem…
I sometimes need to power cycle the board’s receiver in order to get a pair, once that pairing is done, I can turn on and off the transmitter without any problems.
But if I turn off the board again, I might lose paring and I need to repeat the power cycling till I get it again.
Any ideas? I suspect it’s something in the code somewhere.
Hi everyone, I started making some code changes for my needs. I discuss with @solidgeek about improvement for the code. If it can interest some of you waiting for the new version of the software, I posted my changes on github.
What I added so far
- Add UART option (saved in EEPROM) in the receiver for sending throttle value and make this option editable from the settings of the remote
- Set Radio channel to 108 (Above most WiFi frequencies) to avoid interference
- Improve the management of the dead zone and add it in remote settings (very useful for joystick user)
- Add reverse throttle setting in the remote
- Make Trigger Mode setting “Killswitch” and “data toggle” working
- Fix battery voltage (I do not know if you have this problem too …)
5 Likes
This is awesome… Can I know what the UART option does?
This option allows you to choose between PPM and UART to send the throttle value to your VESC. In my case I plugged my receiver only on the UART instead of PPM. And this option is programmable from the remote. If on the remote you change the setting “UART data” your choice is sent to the receiver, that changes the setting and save it in his memory.
That’s awesome. Didn’t even know this is possible.
What advantage does it have other than just having less wires?
It’s digital and you can send other informations if you need. It is already uart that the receiver get the data from the VESC, I find it easier for me and it’s a good option to have I think
Edited: I looked at the library “VescUartControl” and it seems that it is also possible to have a crusing control mode. I’ll try to look at it more
2 Likes