You tube bro. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N032HqxeymA&t=169s This guy has done 4 video’s on it.
I saw all videos made by SeeTheBridges. And also saw his posts in thread. Problem is not in assembling, problem is connection between receiver and transmitter. He didn’t make video about it.
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Honestly getting the receiver and remote connected has always been my most fiddly part. Took me almost a half day on average to get every remote I built working properly. My recommendations are kinda strange, but first start out by touching the antenna on the remote while it’s on. I’ve found sometimes for some reason the antenna was the wonky part and when I touched the ceramic, the remote would begin transmitting properly. If that’s the case, I had 2 fixes with varying degrees of success. The first was to add an additional piece of wire to either side of the antenna about the full length of the arduino. I usually tried to tuck this behind my PCBs. If that didn’t work, I’d remove the ceramic antenna entirely. That worked on a few occasions and didn’t really effect connectivity range in my regular testing. Removing the ceramic was always my last ditch effort tho. I’d double check he continuity on all the NRF pads on both parts and then reflow them before attempting it.
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Pryside I think he is on the forums wrote some code for the remote that used different signals. Watch his video at 13:49. He goes over all of the problems.
curtis
This is his thread: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/3d-printed-boosted-board-killer/88803
First of all, you should use the development version for the Remote and receiver (newest version) https://github.com/SolidGeek/nRF24-Esk8-Remote/tree/development. If that doesnt solve the problem I would try erasing the EEPROM (overriding any bad settings) by changing the firmware version and reupload everything.
The problem usually is bad connections (please double check all nrf24 connections) or wrong software. I havent had any hardware issues ever. But I might have been lucky.
Are you still selling the remotes? i would like to buy one if you are. thanks.
I don’t think anyone is right now, you’d have to make one yourself. I could be wrong though 
For anyone those who experienced connection issues. It’s no secret that the power filter on the receiver is important but today I found out something about the nrf module on the remote. For a reliable connection the wires coming from the nrf module need to be parallel to each other for around 1 cm, like shown here:
If they are soldered well but cross each other early (no short but not parallel to each other from pin direction) than I don’t get a good connection. They have to be parallel for 1 cm, I used kapton tape to keep it in place and ever since didn’t had any connection problems. Anyone can confirm this?
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How can I invert acceleration/brake in the transmitter.ino ? One solution is of course to just flip the magnets but I have them already glued so I need to change it in the arduino file. Anyone knows how? @solidgeek
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I build this remote a while ago, but I noticed a lot of noise on the throttle shown on the bar on the display. Since i upgraded my board to 150mm air tires, I also noticed this noise while driving.
any clue how to improve this?
I just got in my nano with integrated rf24. Has anyone tested this out yet?
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Just point the CSN and CE pins.
RF24 radio(10,9);
I was thinking of getting the same. Did you get a chance to test it?
If I’m not mistaken, the UART protocol changed for the Focbox Unity and the telemetry on the Firefly is broken. I’m highly sceptical my board can go 1000km/h… or that’s at least what the telemetry tells me. 
Did some digging on the forums and came across @StefanMe FeatherRemote and his updated VescUartUnity library.
How to fix it for Unity users:
- Download and include the Unity lib into Arduino IDE
- comment out the old #include “VescUart.h” on line 5 in reciever.ino
- on the next line, paste the new Unity lib: #include <VescUartUnity.h>
- comment out VescUart UART; on line 116.
- paste VescUartUnity UART; on the next line
Should be good to go, unless I forgot something.
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Has anybody had the issue with the remote where it freezes/ glitches out on startup? I thought maybe I had a tiny shirt somewhere but it seems to happen randomly. When the hall sensor was soldered on it would turn on and the RX light would light up, but with the hall sensor desoldered it just has the power light on. Normally on a successful boot up the L light blinks for a second. It’s really frustrating can someone help me?
For clarification it fixes itself when I hit the reset button on the Arduino
Generally this happened when I had either a short or a bad solder joint somewhere on the remote. Typically though this was an issue I’d have on my receivers before I added a ceramic cap on the GND and reset pins. That might work for you in this instance as well but it’d only be a bandaid fix
Ok, I’m gonna try and re solder all my pins, and see if that does anything. I’ll admit I’m not all the good at soldering as I’m relatively new to it (or at least new to doing it the RIGHT way😅)