Nice there was a recent post asking about good remotes posted my own similar incarnation there, should add yours to the list there for potential options (mine is still alpha quality at best, but been using it for over a year)
Dude!
I like the alternative tech on the trigger 
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Same here, itâs about time we saw a remote design that can use both trigger and thumb configurations! Would you consider doing a gt2b mod version of this?
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Really like the design, What printer are you using? your prints came out perfect!
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Looks great! Would love to hear/see more about your design!
First of all thanks for all the nice comments, I am very glad you like my work 
! I am currently working on some schematics and finishing up the third prototype.
@GrecoMan I will make a guide for you guys as soon as I get to finish the newest version - final parts are 3D-printing at the moment 
!
@wafflejock Yeah I have just checked out your design! I like the simplicity of your remote, I could fit a whole lot of electronics in that beast! My design is much more compact, with no or little room for extra electronics
@Cobber @High-roller Glad you like! I will be posting a video of the trigger and throttle mechanism in the bottom of this post! I am afraid I donât own a gt2b remote, and I am not sure if the electronics will fit - so probably not! And doesnât there already exist a ton of great enclosures for gt2b remotes?
@DevoCut Thanks! I am using the european version of the CR-10 called Afinibot A31. Itâs basicly the same printer, however with a few improvements.
@baxter Thanks! I will keep you updated on the progress
Here is a video and some pictures:
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Dude that is amazing! Iâd totally print and build one if you have the time to come out with a guide. Is that an LCD to show battery level?
Thanks 
Would be awesome to see it being made and used by you guys! It is a itzy bitzy OLED LCD (128x32px) to show battery level, signal strenght etc. Could be programmed to show basicly everything - even VESC data by using the UART library made by RollingGecko (https://github.com/RollingGecko/VescUartControl).
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Yeah beautifully done on your design and thread here definitely inspiring me to want to redo mine but need to put it on the backlog pile of things to do for now, maybe Iâll get around to it in a few weeks. I considered doing the linear hall sensor idea too so cool to see someone who actually implemented it. I went with the potentiometer and trigger route because itâs basically what I had previously and just took the same concept for my own controller.
Definitely big but I was putting a mess of wires and big boost converter and nonsense in there but have since figured out how to get it down to a small stack of PCBs, those NRF modules youâre using are super compact though thatâs awesome. Iâm pretty sure you donât need the boost circuit if you get the 8MHz pro mini boards they run on 3.3V so theyâre pretty much good using the LiPo power directly into the RAW pin and getting regulated down to 3.3V for most of the life of the LiPo (speed grades section in the ATMEGA328P shows it at 10MHz with less voltage so should be good) in my own testing has been pretty stable without the boost. Only issue I have is when the battery is really low in the remote it doesnât read the top end in the ADC as high as it should so the throttle signal is sending lower/sluggish speed but kind of good because lets me know I need to juice up the remote. Awesome thing is all these parts use almost no power either way so the battery lasts forever.
Thanks I really appreciate your kind words 
! The potentiometer is a great solution, however I couldnât find a way to make it small enough to fit in my remote. Also the Hall sensor setup is quite solid, because there are no mechanical wear on the throttle. I have been thinking of using the 3.3V Arduino, however the Hall Sensor makes this impossible as it requires at least 4,5V to operate optimal.
There are probably some Hall Sensors of the same type that works at 3.3V however I had already ordered mine And as you mention yourself, when the battery voltage drops below 3.3V the reference voltage will drop, so will need some kind of undervoltage circuit that prevents that - the easy solution a Boost converter 
! They come in very small sizes and cost no more than 5$.
Gotcha yeah had the afterthought that some of the other components here might need higher voltage. Regarding the cut off think it can probably be done with a zener diode too but Iâm not entirely sure so far I havenât really had a problem since most of the time the voltage level is far above whatâs needed anyhow (4.2V-3.6V is where itâs at a majority of the charge). Yeah the boost converter I had was variable and big will have to check out the ones you used here too looks super compact, I donât think I need it but good to be aware of whatâs out there for future stuff anyhow.
I would check out the WeMos TP5410 board. Its a lipo protection, charger, and boost converter all in one.
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Pretty awesome project.
Iâm flying racing drones, and have recently upgraded my gimballs in my remote to hall sensors. It feels so much better and so much more precise now. So seeing your project makes me wanna start my 3d printer now 
How much do it cost in parts to build this nice remote, with LCD ?
@JLabs That is pretty neat! However I donât like that its a shield 
I like better the one from Sparkfun https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11231 - however the price is quite higher
@Silverline Thanks! Yeah Hall Sensors are great :P! I have made a âshopping listâ with the prices in Google Sheets, and the price for the remote is roughly 34$ (not including 3D-printed parts).
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please get me those files
I want to first print it to see if I like it and then order the parts if so.
@Maxid I am currently making a few improvements on the 3D-model (testing it out tonight), I will release the files on thingiverse tomorrow 
Looking forward to hear your opinion on the printed version!
@MontPierre Yeah for sure, however it is still some very basic Arduino code, with only a few hours of work. Anyways I will release the prototype code tomorrow as well Maybe you guys can help me improve it
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Yeah would like to see the code as well, have a couple of things I ran into that I can probably add as a PR to your code for some fail-safes if you donât have them in there already.
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Woohoo Iâm so printing this out when you post it so that I can see/feel the formfactor.