I took it apart to paint the trucks black. Issues with breaking belts started after I put it back together.
The board already feels and looks so high off the ground with the two risers, I can’t imagine raising it further with 97mm wheels 
this is precisely why your belts are breaking, you need to disassemble the wheels & reseat the drive pulley. Basically pull the pulley out, clean up the area to ensure there is no debris & re-insert it flush. Make sure you torque the down the axle nut appropriately so there is no slop for the pulley to dislodge from the seated position.
during the tear down It might be worth eyeing the pulley to make sure it is not damaged, or warped permanently… if you have a damaged pulley we suggest replacing it. Have plenty in stock and happy to ship them out is this is the fault, need photos.
regards JASON
1 Like
Maybe there’s your answer. As suggested by @onloop when you have time, you should probably reassemble everything. It’s probably a longshot, from your pictures it looks like your motor mount might be too close to the wheels. One of the screws on the mount might be impinging on the belt, probably a safe bet to leave a bit of gap between the motor mount and wheel pulley.
The meaty risers are great for 97mm Flywheels! It made a hell of a difference for me when I decided to switch, never looked back since. There’s no debris on the road that I’m worried about anymore, don’t even need to avoid cracks and small potholes. You should take a look at it.
1 Like
On enertion.com, when looking at the “parts and pulleys” page, the drive pulley is labeled as “drive hub” and the motor pulley is labeled as “motor pulley”. That’s how I tried to learn which part was the “pulley” when your customer support gave me the same suggestion. Now I realize that a pulley is just a gear and the two parts are refereed to as “drive pulley” and “motor pulley”. I was confused until now.
Your answer was exactly what Ossama was asking me to try via email. I did not understand and thought I had to “remove the wheel…” in order to remove the belt and get access to the “pulley”, which I understood to always mean “motor pulley” at the time. Luckily, I didn’t have a way of removing the pin securing the motor pulley, so I gave up.
When I disassembled the trucks in order to paint them, I never removed or made adjustments to any of the pulleys. But who knows. Now that I realize we’re talking about the wheel pulley, I’ll give it a shot and inspect like you and Ossama said!
Gave you a lengthy explanation just now so perhaps you could reword the website (very low priority, I get it) or create a more detailed canned email response (not that the email was canned by any means) to help your future customers who may be as new to the terms as myself.
How does one remove the wheel pulley, exactly…?
getting perfect alignment of the motor mount is very important, once you know how to do it is easy… I would suggest double checking you have the alignment perfect.
when you spin the wheels with your hand you will better see the belt alignment (or lack of) the belt shouldn’t rub on anything.
knock it out from the otherside…
… I’m starting to think it’s not the pulley…
probably the removal / reposition of the motor mounts.
i’ll try adjusting the motor mounts so they’re a little further from the wheels and see if that fixes it before addressing the wheel pulleys. thank you!
Actually, i thought to just try spinning the wheel when the belt’s not on to see if it wobbles and it does, a lot. On to whacking out the wheel bearings to reset the wheel pulleys…
Guess you don’t have to knock out the bearings to get the wheel pulleys off…
The problem is the wheel pulleys. I mounted them without the wheels to the trucks and spun them and both wheel pulleys wobble a lot. Cleaned up the wheels and reconnected the wheel pulleys to them. Put back on axle without belts, tightened up, spun, and still lots of wobble.
It’s definitely the wheel pulleys that are not true, causing the belts to fluctuate tension. This might explain why sometimes a belt snaps (too much tension) and sometimes slips (not enough tension).
I’ll email support.
1 Like
HA! I guess this’ll be like dipping your toe into DIY.
I am not sure that emailing us will help this process. They are only going to say what i have said already.
So, give it a go, Just remove the pulley & try to reseat it, take photos when it’s off, it will help me diagnose if there is faulty part.
There is a small chance the pulley is molded wrong, if that’s the case it gets replaced. However, you also said it only started snapping belts after you made changes, so it might just be a matter of reseating it. I would nearly class this as maintenance related. like a wheel alignment on your car.
I am confident this matter can be resolved very easily.
Figured you’d want all support issues to go through email and not this forum. That said, it’s the wheel pulleys. Both are not true and wobble when you spin them without the wheel. I can post a video if you’d like once I get a better internet connection.
dems fightin’ words
2 Likes
Mellow was on this post trying to convince me to check out their dual diagonal setup. Seemed alright until I saw what it looked like and the 24lb weight!! Definitely not carrying around a 24lb skateboard that isn’t capable of going off-road.
I believe my belts are breaking for two reasons:
-
The wheel pulleys are not true. This is causing the belts to fluctuate between too loose and too tight with each revolution, making it basically impossible to set the tension right.
-
There are a shit ton of rocks in Wyoming. Tiny rocks are getting stuck in both my wheel and motor pulleys. This is obviously going to wear down the belts and make them weak, allowing them to break or strip down much sooner than they should.
Solution should be new wheel pulleys and a cover around the belts to prevent rocks from entering. I’m assuming the wheel pulley imperfection is a manufacturing mistake. The rocks are my fault…well, Wyoming’s fault! I know to avoid rough roads and rocks, but even a “smooth” road here would be considered rocky by most standards. I didn’t realize how rocky it was here until some members pointed out that it’s very unusual for rocks to get stuck in the pulleys; I get a rock stuck every 10-15 minutes of riding! Rock guards should take are of that!
$40 worth of plastic and I hopefully won’t have to worry about breaking any more belts, unless of course I’m abusing this thing, which I don’t 
A cover sounds like a great idea, if you have to stop every 15 min to pick out rocks that doesn’t sound like much fun!
I had 3 snapped 9mm belts in 3 weeks, then I changed to 12mm drive system. Rocks still kept coming in every single trip, had to check the pulley and belt EVERYTIME (t-tool, wrench also spare belts are in my backpack all the time). My pulleys are wearing out by rocks, branches, glasses and even small fruits from tree. One 12mm belt broke in 20k since I bought them.
Really kinda need a protect shell for enertion’s motor system…
1 Like
Difficult to say exactly of course but it would seem from the video that the wheel gear inserts have been badly. 3D printed and are not running true. Either new ones from Enertion or get a set printed, there are files on this site somewhere for the 3D wheel gears. Getting a set 3D printed is pretty cheap so worth a shot.