How did you actually managed to melt xt90s? At first you made suspicious about vedder’s anti-spark and then basic xt90s. I thought i would like to try something fancier than xt60 loopkey which i have used so far.
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not sure what ever happened to that xt90S. other people reported it got very hot when it wasnt fully plugged in - my guess is that a small resistor (the one that supresses the spark) it the sole connection and the rest didnt really connect. some brought some mysterious polarity into the game which I dont believe up to date.
for me it happened twice with an xt90s - got hot, started melting, game over.
about vedders antispark: i have never used that. so far Ive tried torqueboards antispark which worked fine up to date since more than 2 years. and an alien power system antispark, which I killed TWICE now.
my summary: screw all that crap, go simple!
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The only reason to use a full AntiSpark switch is stealth. Other than that a XT90S should work fine - although it seems like people have mixed feelings regarding them. Besides @whitepony I have not heard of a lot of cases that a XT90S has melted. Not inserting it fully might cause obvious problems though.
Okay. Less potential components to fail is the way to go👍🏼
Dang man, that is super clean! I’m beginging a trampa urban carver setup as well but this enclosure is going to change that build setup for sure. What kind of Mph/range are you getting with the dual 6355 and 10s4p?
I really hope I don’t run into the issue of melting an xt90…
Here a method how to cut our battery boxes, so that you get a lot of flex.
http://www.trampaboards.com/longboard-battery-panel-4ply-70cm-p-13720.html
I usally drill some 5mm holes to define the end of the cut line. Easy…
Next to come: Method how to make a nice “end bung” from a simple aluminium profile and some neoprene sheet material
Frank
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but that will have open slits and holes so that dust and dirt plus water can get inside. @whitepony’s enclosure seems much better suited for the intended purpose (and also looks better). You should look into manufacturing a similar one instead of just offering a panel that needs to be worked on and have end caps made.
problem is that my enclosure isnt very generic - its suited only for my kind of battery layout. i share your thoughts about the trampa enclosure, but for many people without access to vacuum, this is a good start. you can always wrap your components in cling film and just use the slitted enclosure as physical protection.
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I am also wondering if the thin slits are actually wide enough to allow for flex. The paper @trampa showed the flex with, is only able to flex because the “parts” left and right of a slit can move above and under each other. With thick carbon (additionally mounted to a deck) this is not possible anymore. The only way then is to have enough distance between the faces.
@trampa: can you show how good the actual carbon flexes?
There are two different slit pattern, one for bending upward and one for bending downwards. This allows the enclosure to flex in both directions. The enclosure is very sturdy and impact resistant! 4Ply Trampa magic fiber. I just lay a thin (0.5mm) silicone sheet inside the tub and everything is nice and waterproof. The end bungs will be shown tomorrow. They seal off the ends very tight and splash proof.
We think its a nice and generic product that can be made to any length and requirement and basic tools are enough to sort out your custom battery box within 2hours.
Frank
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It was only game over for the XT90 right? You didn’t fry your board did you?
Whitepony do you remember the circumstances ? …(uphill, full speed,normal speed, connecting,…ect) when your XT90s burnt ?
it started here on my first trampa built: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=78970&p=1177231&hilit=xt90s#p1177102
it wasnt a very long discussion and Im still not sure why it happened. maybe it was a bad soldering joint (unlikely, im very thorough). maybe i damaged the resistor/full contact thing with soldering heat somehow and god knows what it did to the xt90s.
youve actually fiddled around in that thread too back then already 
had another discussion about it here someday later: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/melting-loop-key-solved/5241
Yes your right i was involved in that discussion,… it’s still a mystery ?
This is my method of closing off the ends:
I usee a 20x25mm plastic L-Profile and some 2mm thick EPDM foam (single side sticky sheet material). I stick a strip of the EPDM on the inside of the battery enclosure, followed by two more strips, leaving a gap, so that the L-Profile slots into that gap.
The cable outlet holes are made wider (8mm) and then I stick some rubber (bicycle inner tube) on the inside of the L-Profile. A tiny hole can be cut into the rubber, using the revolving punch pliers. Now you can pull the cable through the rubber and the cable outlet will be sealed off.
How to put a nice thread into a Trampa Deck. Actually you can cut threads into our decks, so you can also cut repair threads! Wind them in with some epoxy resin. Grip tape can be attached once all threads are made. Think twice before you attach the grip tape. Finish your board first! The last thing is the grip tape!
Cross section with 2x 18560 Sony VTC Cells
Hope that helps a bit to envision the procedure…
Frank
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looks pretty good frank! you should make an official trampa thread where you build an emtb with trampa only parts! 
miniupdate for me - sugru arrived and esk8.de remote & vescs! fixated the bullet connectors on the inside now:
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I will build up a carver with battery box below and will show the results in another thread. I still have the Street Carver No.1 from 2013 and that will get a solid update now. I like your BBox a lot. As you said, its very special for the Carvers and we aim to offer something more generic. So our Box will fit most builds incl. Longboards. The slitting I do is just to give all viewers an idea how to build a box for a flexible, arched board, using basic tools everyone has or are available at your next doors hardware store. Where are you located BTW? Take a photo of the massive smile on your face after the first ride (-,
Frank
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Looks great!
How strong is Sugru whitepony ?, it sticks well to your Carbon Fibre?
Once cured, it’s very strong. I have been using it for at least 6 months now, to hold a power strip (I don’t know how you call those, if you Google it images that show up are what I mean) on the bottom of my desk. The strip weights at least 1,5 kilos since I have 9 things connected to it, just hanging. Still holds strong
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phew, got home from 12hours work and now I fiddled for 6 hours straight to finalize the board. 
it was a LOT of soldering, one complete rearrange inside the electronic segment, waterproofing the enclosure with neoprene band, setting up the 2 vescs, then putting it all together and doing a quick maidens ride in the rain.
turns out my phase wire exits and triple on/off/charge ports were taking a lot of room in the wrong spots - and all of that just so that the phase wires would not cover up 2 enclosure screws on the outside 
in the end i had a LOT less room to work with than initially planned.
I got the 2 vescs cornered now under the protective felt sheets, 2x 2200uF external capacitor bank instead of 6x 680uF stock capacitors (which just took too much room) and both vescs are connected to these capacitors in parallel. hope this wont end badly, since the 2 vescs are directly coupled now to ONE smoothing reservoir. 10awg wires and all 5.5mm bullet connectors didnt help with the available space either - shouldve just directly soldered everything together instead of single 5.5mm bullet connector units. the receiver is set up in the opposite corner next to the capacitors - went for ppm splitter instead of can cable, because I was a little afraid of killing vescs by accident - the receiver seems far enough away from strong currents, didnt have any issues with reception on my quick run.
the whole enclosure is sealed with 2mm thick and 2cm wide neoprene band, that compresses so much under all these screws that you cant really tell from the outside (I can take some pictures tomorrow). I found that the capillary effect with 2 very well fitting surfaces really sucks in the water, so you really need something to break this effect.
for the maidens ride in the rain hmm, where to begin? I ran for a total of 5min, then the rain got even stronger and I fled back home. my first impressions were:
- camber of these trampa boards still a little strong, need to stand in the middle of the board to really level it out. I felt like it might grow on me though with pushing outwards in turns, because its fairly flexy afterall. couldnt push too much with fresh electronics and wet roads!
- very turny, maybe removing the yellow dampas wasnt a good idea afterall with the dual motor speed!
- running the motors as dual foc and the board is REALLY suprisingly silent - also expected the direct drive gears to be louder than the belts. couldnt really tell much of a difference to be honest.
- amazing coasting!! didnt think the drive gears would coast THAT well
- pretty high top speed - was setting the board up, so that i would hit 48kph with the 125mm trampa urethane hub wheels. well, now I still got the 7" pneumatics and with the 1:4 gearing, 230kw motor and 10S battery, this is 60kph+
- nearly forgot how strong dual motors are. set up 40A battery -10A braking per vesc and fully throttle/braking is really strong.
- pneumatics suck, Im really an urethane guy
didnt counterbalance the stupid valve, so I had annoying vibrations from the wheels. the immense grip makes riding a little boring, because youll never ever slip kinda and it feels so disconnected from the road. flexy board and soft trucks is one thing, but its still very direct. pneumatic wheels are always somewhat spongy and all the precise nice urethane ride is gone. @trampa gimme those urethane hubs!!!
fingers crossed for better weather tomorrow
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