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Sector 9 "Look-at-me" Lacey | Single 245kv | 10s | K-force | Post-build thread


#1

I’ve finally made it more than four weeks without something breaking, so I guess now’s a good time to post some pics and explain my build.
Deck: Sector 9 “Lacey” With a chopped tail so it will stand up straight. Nobody likes the dirt lines left when a board falls over leaning against a wall. I’ve also shortened the wheelbase so I can lift the nose over bumps: 27.5" wheelbase.
Caliber trucks
77mm Speed Vents
12t/36t Alien UST mount
245kv Eflite Power 160 (12s capable)
Turnigy K-force 120A Opto ESC (also 12s capable)
10s Zippy Compact (2x 5s)
Turnigy Multistar Dual Sbec
GT2B Tx/Rx with Badwolf v2.


A few weeks ago I posted on the ES forum about my BEC’s burning when my loop key fell out, so I moved my key so it won’t fall out and added a 10A fuse to hopefully prevent that in the future, although, I think it’s high voltage rather than high amperage that will kill it so the fuse probably wont’ do anything. I also switched back to a larger electronics case to make room for adding strip lights and a light switch.

The green shrink tube above the green SBEC is the controller for my strip lights, the xt60 is because I’m planning to get better lights and want a simple swap option. These are my STRIP lights


The motor wires are ran through the case inside two layers of heat shrink, and Shoe-Goo is used to seal it and hold because it’s really easy to peel it off and start over if need be. Temporarily permanent is the goal. I shrink the tube with a tiny heat gun while it’s inside the holes to get the bubble as seen above. This is my heat gun

Motor wire holder is strip velcro from walmart, flexible and strong but I decided not to bother with a quick release on my most recent rebuild because every time I need to move those wires I’m tearing it all apart anyway.

Light switch is 12v LED from Autozone.

This is a old pic but the battery box hasn’t changed. A piece of plastic is held with the mounting bolts inside the case under the batteries and the velcro holds the batteries to the plastic, it just loops around. The forward/backward movement is stopped with the extra tall mounting hardware.

The bolts are wrapped with the same double sided velcro I use everywhere. I just wrapped a spiral and screwed them on by hand. This method leaves me with enough room to tuck in the wires on either side.

These are my RISER lights shipped from Canada. They’re designed to use three AAA batters each but the vibrations put carbon on the +terminals and only lasted a mile. There’s a button that controls them and makes the blue lights flash but when my CC BEC Pro died it sent too much power and fried the light controls so now the buttons are useless and the lights are always on. Happy accident I suppose. I’m running them from the 5v available on my receiver’s ch1. I HAD a 12v fan plugged into my other empty channel but the vibrations broke it in three places so that’s a work in progress. I guess something did break in the past few weeks, doesn’t count ‘cause I’m still riding.

I put black light LEDs in my Badwolf connected to a little board salvaged from a flashing bracelet I found on the road. The plan was to have flashing blacklights shining on myself and the top of my board but I somehow bypassed or killed the flasher. There’s probably a trend here. The board and leds are hot glued and the holes were melted with a soldering iron.

Video demonstration of lights
I recently bought an action cam but it can’t handle more than 5 frame per second at 720, and the picture at 640 is really discolored and grainy, so videos of me riding aren’t’ happening because I’m NOT doing the cell phone on a stick trick.
With all the lights and fluorescent shirts I wear I have never been bothered by a cop. I seriously do carves to go around traffic stops and they just wave to me. I’m only on the road when traffic is low and I’m never slower than a bike on the road or faster than pushing speed on side walks. ALWAYS slow down near pedestrians and if there is a stroller or child shorter than 3ft I pick up the board with the batteries facing away and walk around. I always remain calm when someone says “COOL XBOX SYMBOL DUDE!”. These are sacrifices I make in order to be the change I wish to see in the world.

Thanks for looking, now GO SKATE.


#2

Great thread @thisrealhuman I idea to use shoo goo instead of hot glue; it’s a little softer and easier to remove… I’ll keep that in mind!


#3

I Like that you are using shoe goo, that stuff is awesome!


#4

@onloop, @treenutter, Yep yep, cut it with a razor and it peels right off. If I were more patient and clever I would put it in a large syringe with a chisel tip to apply like caulk. My method of slapping on gobs with the tip of a zip-tie looks awful.


#5

@thisrealhuman yes to all of this! I am hyper-vigilant about respect for others on the sidewalk and roads. If someone is near me I slow down or stop. If there’s a person with a dog or a kids I get off the sidewalk or at least stop and walk past them then keep riding. I even make an effort to be friendly and say hello or something. If we want the PEV movement to get traction and acceptance, we have to show the world that people on skateboards are respectful, pleasant, and not a nuisance.


#6

Good stuff mate…make use of eBay for LED lights … You could of got 4 16ft rolls with the remote for the price you paid at Frys … That way if it don’t work out…you don’t spend slot of money…

L👀Ks great


#7

Nice job!
Whenever people are making space for me and my big board i always thanks the people. If you are kind to the people they will be most likely kind to you :wink:


#8

Cool lights! Can you brake with the K-Force ESC?


#9

The K-force has brake modes Off, Soft, Hard, and Very hard, and braking is always ON when the throttle is released. If I’m rolling and not touching the trigger, my Soft setting feels like rolling across thin carpet, hard is more like normal carpet, and very hard threw me off the board when I tried it, so I’m not using that anymore. If I want to get up to speed and coast I have to keep my finger on the throttle and hold it because as soon as I start releasing throttle, the motor starts slowing me down. I do a lot of foot-breaking once I’m back down to less than 10mph and I barely notice the soft brake when I’m pushing off.


#10

Definitely didn’t know that, I got myself a 12s K-Force a few months ago and im using it now without brakes. would be really nice to have them though. How can I activate the brakes/is it doable without the programming card? It says “USB-supported” on a sticker on the ESC, but there is no port on the ESC for plugging in a mini/micro usb.


#11

Scroll all the way to the last page for transmitter programing instructions. I’ve done this with my previous ESC, it took me 30 mins to figure it all out but it works. If you plan on using it for a while or get more K-forces for future builds get the program box from Hobbyking.

Here’s a vid of how throttle stick programming works:


#12

@thisrealhuman how is the esc working for u?


#13

Still working great. Im about to change my gearing and wheel size to utilize more of this torque. The k force is a beast at 10s.


#14

thanks for letting me know!


#15

Build update: New wheels, new pulleys, new mount.

The new v4 @torqueboards mount is way better than the Alien UST mount. There’s only one bolt and I didn’t have to spend an hour with alum shims. I added washers and red locktite to the motor plate bolts, but stripped them attempting to adjust my motor clearance. No bangs on the way to and from work so I guess it’s good for now.

My new pulleys are the 12mm Enertion kit, 15t/36t, which changes my motor pulley from 12t. I’m really impressed with this plastic pulley. I wanted an alum wheel pulley without all the bolts and alignment problems, but I’ve had issues with my Aliendrive pulley shifting around and making my wheels click as the plastic wears out. Mileage kills parts, who knew?

My screwdriver was sharper than I thought. My wheels are not as center-cored as I thought.

This bearing has a lip to hold the pulley in place, since my bearing has a grinding sound I’m replacing it with a normal skate bearing, and here’s an interesting feature:

You can just slide two bearings into place after you put the pulley on. In case it fits too tight and you can’t push or pry it out but still need to clean your bearings. This plastic is rugged, I will most likely eventually destroy this wheel to get to the pulley. And you can barely see the blue once it’s installed, but I wonder if i could dye it black.

So with my new gearing and wheel size, my top speed should be 31mph (was 25). I haven’t tested that yet, but the low end torque is still more powerful than I was expecting. My motor seems quieter when speeding up but my drag brake is mostly ineffective, so I’m setting my brakes back to hard.

The wider belt hasn’t skipped and there are no alignment issues. Nice products! And they keep getting better.


Airplane/Heli 12S ESC for ESK8 - Success