Rocket Boards NEW site and new product: the FOCBOX!

With the FOCBOX’s becoming popular/commonly used, maybe a anti vibration mounting system would be a seller, low profile compact with a heatsink/passive cooling and a touch of waterproofing are all things needed.

At this time i can only find one well designed foxbox mounting bracket by @JLabs, but as an example i really like @Nowind’s DIY Vesc six case/solution something like that for the Focbox’s would be a rather tempting option for those of use not able to make such things.

Do you have any idea what thread he posted the diy vesc 6 case? Was searching through, but couldn’t find anything.

Just go to the end and scroll up… edit ps didnt want to post others pictures on your thread sorry for making you scroll again lol.

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  1. cut a small square of the silicone foam you get when you buy your motors. Make it the same size as the flat square section of the plastic housing on the focbox.
  2. Score the flat square section of the plastic housing on the focbox with low grit sandpaper, 60 or 80 will do.
  3. Score the floor of the enclosure with the same grit. Blow off the dust and wipe it clean.
  4. Plug in your hot glue gun and use a BLACK hot glue stick. Let the gun sit longer than it needs to to warm up. The glue will start to drip and collect under the tip. That’s how you know its a bit hotter than it usually needs to be. You want it very runny and hot when you squeeze the trigger.
  5. make a glob of hot glue the size of a Skittle on the focbox where you scored it and press the foam square into it. Immediately place it on a table foam side down and press the focbox down onto the foam and hold it for one minute.
  6. Place another skittle sized glob of extra hot glue in the box where desired, then press the focbox foam side down into the glob and keep pressure on it for one minute.
  7. let cool an additional 5 minutes.

your focbox will be strongly bonded to your enclosure. The foam will rip before the glue will let go of either surface. the foam provides elevation for allowing wires to have room to be routed, vibrational damping, and an easy fastener free experience. it also allows the heatsink to float in the open air of the box.

if you don’t have a 3cm clearance or so in the box, you can use thinner foam padding. You can filet the motor foam fairly easy with an exacto or a sharp kitchen knife. A larger razor or razor saw would be ideal.

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I wouldnt be able to do that with as much detail and workmanship as i want so, i would rather purchase a solution than try and make it myself as, i would be disappointed with my results when compared to what i see achieved on this site by others with greater skills and more tools/workspace.

Thankyou for the detailed reply it maybe useful in the future tho im to noob at the mo. :slight_smile:

@longhairedboy @evoheyax The more of you with affordable and adaptable battery solutions, the better (incl BMS’s and chargers). In my opinion, there seems to be a rather large gap in North America for li ion power. Not knocking those who are already doing this, just probs wouldn’t hurt to have moar. And for the love of pizza, somebody please start doing this in Canada! :upside_down:

I think the real issue is the laws around shipping batteries are grey…

At this point in time, I don’t even know if I can ship a fully assembled 12s or 10s battery from inside the US to someone else in the US.

Batteries are the final piece in the puzzle for completes. We have board solution (similar to the raptor 2 but in long board form). Not what I personally want, but until I can get there, this will do fine.

Were looking into getting a resistance soldering iron. We can use copper strips instead of nickle. Mix that with cell level fusing, a good bms, and power switch, and your set.

I think batteries will be there at some point in the next few months. It’s not a matter of if but when now.

Just did a copper strip pack and there is a difference in preformance heat wise, and effeciency wise, same exact parts in two individual packs except the copper strip pack was able to get 1.5-2 more miles, I dont spotweld it on though, ive seen too many spotwelded packs come in with broken tabs and ruin entire parallel packs, I find with a hot enough iron(can be expensive for a good one)you form a much stronger connection and are less prone to future issues.

Fedex. Get an account, use Ground or Home Delivery (which is ground) and print the labels yourself and drop them off at the closest hub. I ship batteries and fully assembled boards this way. I even shipped a carefully packaged unwrapped evolve pack back to the owner so they could puff it how they saw fit.

Don’t bother with USPS or UPS. I just shipped 645 watt hours to California yesterday.

what’s that? how do they work in comparison to say a standard 480C digital solder station? What I need is a welder with a wand that actually delivers enough current.

hmmm… steals back California battery sales :smiley:

haha. I need to get into the battery game. Well see. I like that bms, but danm, it’s too much.

It’s a weird soldering iron that uses resistance to solder the cells.

http://resistancesoldering.com/site/

As a result, we can use copper strips instead of nickle, and copper is just better electrically than nickle.

is that legal? @willpark16 how were the connections made? compression,

resistance soldering is on es. it’s a high heat connection but made with electricity for a very short time. like double the cost of a spot welder

its legal in a truck on the ground. It not legal in the air or on a boat.

The way you describe it… it sounds exactly like a spot welder. i’m off to google.

it is. but uses solder and does it fast.

Spot weld pure nickel stop on top with pure copper strip on top of that so the heat from soldering doesn’t reach the cells, and then copper braid on top of the copper strip

I’ve shipped batteries usps and ups it depends on the size of the battery, if the customer wants it fast then they have to pay extra so that I can make it do that should anything happen during transport there is little chance of fire, it’s best to do ground though via ups

shit you got me thinking about doing a copper compression pack again!!

I was interested by the compression idea but it would have to be simpler than my current method or much more efficient for me to make the more than likely expensive change

@willpark16 do you do cell level fusing?

man that’s crazy town. I just use .2mm pure nickel.

I’m about to do something entirely different though and get away from spot welding packs. I’m designing a nickel/paperboard laminate sheet that will be machined to shape and feature holes over the cells for individual fuse wire soldering. Sticky back on the paper will allow the strips to be stuck on then easily soldered. Should reduce build time drastically and add some safety.

If i can find the nickel rolls wide enough to work with for less than the cost of a lifetime relationship with a woman i’ll get this ball rolling.

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