Buy FOCBOX Unity

Replacing part of SK3 phase wires with silicone wire vs Extenders


#1

Greetings!

I was wondering about this for a while now.

I am going to mount my motors in the rear, so outside of the board.

Default SK3 cables are just phase windings and they are quite hard to bend, so I presume they would eventually snap, not necessarily all of it, but some windings over time from steering movements, vibrations, etc.

What would be a better idea:

Cut the phases, leaving only 3-4cm, soldering flexible silicone wire to that.

or

Just adding bullet adapters with flexible wiring in between motors and the controller after somehow fixing the phases stationary?


#2

The first is better, but make sure to do them at slightly different lengths to keep the bulk to a minimum


#3

Its a bitch and a constant worry if you don’t. And dont ask me how I know please lol


#4

Pretty much like all electrical wiring, so that the bend keeps constant cable length and I can add the Nylon sleeve easier?


#5

why not the bullet connectors solution?


#6

Bullets works too I have done both, but I prefer the full silicone as it’s a lot more flexible and the full length bends equally. Either is fine really


#7

Cutting the wires is a pain, but is worth it IMO.

The windings still have the laquer on them all the way until the end where their banana plugs are soldered.

You have a few options to remove it. Some kind of solvent would be best. You can send them (each strand, individually). Or you can melt it away by repeatedly trying to solder it and hopefully make good contact. I don’t recommend the last option despite it working well enough for me.


#8

burning with a lighter works too


#9

I found it very hard to solder on the sk3 windings, maybe it was just my iron temp tho


#10

@murloc992 you need to get the coating of the phase windings for a good solder. i recommend a fine sandpaper to do it.


#11

Acetone or nail varnish remover works.


#12

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I will for sure go with the flexible silicone wire route. Yet I think it will void the heck of my warranty… I will coat my windings so I guess that’s the least of my “voiding” issue. :smiley:


#13

Maybe some of you who have taken SK3s apart, know how to properly deal with the 4 tiny screws on the can? 3 unscrewed no problem, 1 is quite damaged but I am glad it did unscrew… They seem to be screwed as hard as it gets and not damaging them is like 50/50 chance.

Are there better replacements or something?


#14

They have Loctite on them you can tell by either a blue or white residue on the screw. You must heat them up before unscrewing. Make sure to replace the damaged one now


#15

The small ones didn’t have any residue, unless it was the contact clue that seeped in, there’s residue on the fan.

What size are they even? M2.5?


#16

I would replace them regardless with some high quality bolts from McMaster


#17

The size. What’s the size! :smiley:

I presume M2.5, but unsure.


#18

I’ve never used that motor, but a decent pair of calipers never lies :wink:


#19

Seems to be M2.5 6mm screws. Tiny as heck. :smiley:

What kind of wire diameter should I aim after I cut the wires off the motor?

Would 2.5sq. mm work? Seems to only take 36A by the specs… But I guess 36A per phase is 108A total so no dice I will ever reach that. :smiley:


#20

i took 12awg silicone, because i have alot of it.