Reliable Caliber II truck motor mounts?

ESK8 Mechanics
30

I make caliber motor mounts https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/boardnamics-idler-motor-mounts-for-sale/46255/48

They utilize locknuts on all of the connections except the ones to the motor obviously. I would be impressed if u managed to get it lose. It squeezes the hell out of the hanger with 2 m6 bolts. All of the hardware is also 12.9 so much harder to strip

Give it a try! In a few days they will be $15, the cheapest mount on the market!

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Thanks everyone who replied. A lot of ideas and suggestions here, but if i’m honest I’m not sure if any one solution would address all problems I experienced.

I think a perfect caliber II mount would need to have the following:

  • Cross Bars between the motor mounts for dual motor setups. This would minimize the strain on the c-clamps making them less likely to fail.
  • At least one of this 2 to avoid belt skipping
    • Fit Dual 55mm motors and 15mm belts (some of them do)
    • Have idlers with a few fixed positions so that it doesn’t “slide” (essential to have good idlers if running 12mm belts)
  • Connection between c-clamp and motor arm needs to have fixed positions (not a “continuum”). It can still be adjustable by having several holes but each role the same size of the fastener. Or it should be just one piece.
  • Contact area that the c-clamp makes with the hangers needs to be good (maybe wider?). The c-clamps that only have 1 bolt and rely on the C “closing down” due to the force of the bolt don’t seem good enough. I haven’t tried the ones with 2 bolts.
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32

Is there a page for the new mount with 2 piece clamp? Does it work well with caliber II trucks? Can you PM it to me please.

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i have marc mounts with TB trucks + sixshooters and rode quite a bit. They are good mounts if installed properly…never had issues, but every now and then i do some maintenance+loctite…but agree with psyco, the origin of the issues are Caliber II trucks.

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Right! So it doesn’t matter how much it costs. $100 bucks widely accepted, rattly mounts suck. Thin toilet paper is widely accepted and used everywhere too. Is it good?

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I really don’t get why trucks are the part most people wanna cheap out on. The amount of builds i see on $100+ wheels, $200 deck, $400+ battery $300 on vesc and then $30 trucks… :man_facepalming:

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@gmurad not yet, we haven’t updated photos yet. But @Battosaii posted an image above.

We have a new option that we haven’t released yet (in production) but it’s almost everything you’ve mentioned.

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Are you saying that people get Caliber II trucks because they are cheaping out? My reason to use them had nothing to do with money.

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we use calibers because they are good and cheap. but they are cast and not precision milled. so every set will be slightly different. as all mounts are precision made, it doesn’t work 100% for everyone. SurfRodz, Fatboy for example are precision. mounts for them should fit 100%.

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I didn’t mean it like that. There’s just so many options for high-end parts, I feel like every month I see a really cool new set of mount or drivetrain but all for caliber trucks…

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Ohhh, I thought that type of mount would be called 3 piece, because there are 3 pieces that connect after all… That mount does look like it would fix the problems I experienced.

Sorry for the confusion. I owe a small apology to @torqueboards too then :slight_smile:

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I want a motor mount for theses forged RF1…my k5 are my most favorite Screenshot_20181108-203710

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42

My new mounts have all of these points covered.

https://whooshboards.com/product/dual-mount-complete-with-idlers-and-crossbars/

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43

Hey @kuphjr,

How about now? Did you put a lot more KMs on the new mount design? Are they still holding well?

The extra 2 cross bars should help but I don’t know if it’s enough to prevent the c-clamp from getting loose from the truck hanger over time.

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Yep! Still working great! Although I think I prefer using bearings as idlers instead of using the acetal idlers that we’re included with the mount. Metal just lasts longer than acetal. That being said there is hardly any wear on the idlers despite a fair bit of riding.

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I now replace the POM housing with T6 6511 aluminum, it’s much more durable. :point_down:

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Nice! I’d like to purchase four pieces! The Delrin ones I have, seem to have a bit of wiggle, causing the drive train to have a high pitch rattle when riding.

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I ended up ordering this mount https://whooshboards.com/product/dual-mount-complete-with-idlers-and-crossbars/

It’s the one that comes the closest (on paper) to addressing all the issues I’ve had with the mounts before.

@marcmt88’s revised design address many of the issues I had with his “earlier” (I bought all 4 last year, so not that early) models but still has the same c-clamp (1 bolt) and that’s what caused me the most issues in the past.

Will report back on how much improvement these are.

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@Mikaelj I received your dual mount complete kit 2 days ago. I haven’t ridden it yet but I’d like to comment on my first impressions.

I have to say I’m really impressed with the quality, it’s much beyond what I’ve used before.

It’s T6 7075 Aluminum, the clamp and motor arms are both thicker then other mounts I have (e.g.: clamp is 12mm wide) and the design is excellent as well, like you said I can tell it will address the pain points I’ve had before. The clamps make very solid contact with the Caliber II hangers, even before applying a lot of torque I can already feel the solid fit. The arm won’t move from the clamp either because of how it’s designed.

If there is anything that I would improve(disclaimer: I haven’t used the mounts yet):

  • Ship with Alloy Steel bolts instead of Stainless
  • I appreciate that you designed most bolt areas to be able to take a Nyloc nut on the other side and shipped them with the mount. The main thing that is not compatible with a Nyloc nut but would be nice to have are the clamp bolts.

Looking forward to testing it on the road.

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Thank you so much for the feedback @gmurad!

1 Like