changed a few details - coated the wheel wells with black resin because I know how much crap the wheels will throw at the board. also changed all screws with all matte black screws to make them less noticeable. finally, I added 3x 4mm gold connectors with sugru to the rear enclosure for the loop “ignition” key + charging. basically I really just need to add a motor pulley + belt and I could go. Im really proud, its by far the best looking board Ive ever built up.
quick question I have the same setup as you for spot welding. We might even have the same car/motorcycle battery charger. Does yours output 12v/6v and 9 Amps ? Not that it matters since we use the power cap for discharge… Does your battery charger also have a slot for the fuse ? If so, what fuse are you using ? I have 30A fuses here but they burn through after a couple welds…
@Riako
board is ready since a while, got my first 50km on it already, tonight I ran my first longer test since i was in ski holidays before. actually it snowed all day, but its so cold that the snow covers the road like dust, can actually ride over it quite well and behind me its a white whirl.
really REALLY happy with how the board has turned out. it feels lighter and more agile/playful than my vanguard … mostly thanks to the shorter wheelbase I guess. I also love that the board is wider, its perfect for my feet and from the change bottle nose -> round snowboard topmount shape, there is more flexibility for your stance and much more room for “dancing”. flex turned out simply perfect for my weight, carving is pure joy. been tinkering long enough with it - final version is now:
200g/m^2 carbon twill
2mm bamboo
400gr/m^2 glas
2mm bamboo
400gr/m^2 glas
2mm bamboo
400gr/m^2 glas
2mm bamboo
400gr/m^2 glas
2mm bamboo
200g/m^2 carbon twill
routed channels for battery and motor wires
2mm inserted electric compartments
its thicker than the original vanguard - but the flex is still very similar, because my board has slightly less concave. what I also like is, that the board is dead silent. the perfect enclosure fit really pays off to be honest.
@whitepony Great thread! I just finished my first board and am making my own custom second. I was curious about the type of glass you used? Was it chopped glass that you laid up? Also when you pressed your veneers did you sand the top of your vanguard first? Thanks and keep up the awesome work!
I meant more specifically if you sanded off the spray on grip tape off your vanguard before using it as the mold. Sanding each veneer to make a better bond surface makes total sense as well!
actually I didnt weight it, but its not a lightweight. feels about as heavy as the original flex2 vanguard. think my deck is even a bit thicker, but flex is similar because I got a little less concave.
yea, my vanguard was blank anyway, because there were a lot of routed cables on the top surface. vibration grinder with 80grit makes VERY quick work of the original spray on grip.
maidens ride last week on 83s 76A trampa stickies, now switched to 90mm 76A stickies and made around 50km already. superstoked about the wheels, never had a more silent and smoother ride feeling than with these new 90s! just super comfy, even better than my 90mm 75A abecs which so far set the bar for me!
about motors: on my diy board im running an old 6355 rspec, on my vanguard I ran one of those APS closed 6355 motors. got a direct comparison for the first time, back to back, and I like the rspec a lot better. both motors in foc mode, both on german vescs, uthe rspec is much more silent, especially at max rpm where the closed aps motor was screaming like a little girl. perfectly suits the carving cruise character of the flexy board and the great wheels.
max gps speed: 51kph and absolutely no sign of speed wobbles even though the board is about as flexy as my flex 2 vanguard and all that with a shorter wheelbase! thank you ronins
I know I’ve seen you posting it somewhere but I can’t find it. Would you post the link where you got the screw/wood inserts ? Particularly interested in the one used in the vanguard. Just the length might help
search for “rampa muffe” on ebay, there are plenty types to choose one. Im using M4 8x8mm, choose the length by how you plan to use them. if you drill a hole in your board and stick them through, you can just use 10mm length, if you just drill a partial hole, 8mm length is probably better.
ill take a foto from the outside when im home from business travels.
its a simple male-male 4mm bullet connector loop key and its sparking nicely. i went back to this kind of on/off after I had a melted xt90 and an electronic powerswitch stopped working in on-mode, nearly killing my battery!
I was debating whether or not I should get an anti-spark switch or if I should just go the loop key route. Looks like a switch would be a more elegant solution although more expensive and more prone to failure as you’ve experienced
Thanks for your fb WP ! Your ultimate esk8 build imo … look cazy and you give us to want a test ride haha
… hurry to see your next all terrain e-board !
Good continuation
I have the same setup as you for spot welding. We might even have the same car/motorcycle battery charger. Does yours output 12v/6v and 9 Amps ? Not that it matters since we use the power cap for discharge… Does your battery charger also have a slot for the fuse ? If so, what fuse are you using ? I have 30A fuses here but they burn through after a couple welds…
no fuse of course!
