yea, 2x 2200uF 63V 105°C capacitor (probably one wouldve been fine too). layout is very simple - they are bottom to bottom and the passing cables are just connecting them in parallel. both of them fixated by shrink tube and the pin sides are under hot glue! check the third picture, think thats pretty clear.
Awesome as always ! 
Your boards are the sole reason I think people should go DIY instead of a commercial board… Just knowing its possible to get a product finished at this level is motivating me haha…
Are you carving channels on the top of the board again ? Do you have a router or are you using an “Fräßaufsatz” ? I’d love some pics for that process if possible 
Does the length of the cable that connects the batterys affect the connection ? Or does it even matter when using 12/10AWG ?
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hehe, thanks
yea, ill carve channels for the battery connections ontop of the board - probably skipping the LHB motor wire channels this time though. for pics, just check my jet spud thread - its exactly the same thing really: http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/carbon-jet-spud-freebord-bindings-single-vesc-10s3p-lg-hg2/5805
and yea, if you use 10AWG wires, the length is quite negligible imo!
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Awesome build Whitepony !!
Do you know how those Trampa Wheels Ride ? , Love to get some Black 90mm wheels also.
…Kegal is supposed to be coming out with a Larger Wheel !
ive been riding the black 83mm trampas since a while - they are comparable to the 80mm kegels - feel a little more grippy on bad pavement, but also a bit harder than the 80A kegels. overall the comfort of 90mm 75A flywheels is much better. but black looks pretty cool tbh 
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I forgot to ask ,…can you use a kegal wheel pulley on the Trampa wheel ? The hub looks similar
hm, I doubt it! maybe @trampa can help you out there, Im reluctant to try, cause Id have to reapply all the loctite again and my supply is running short. 
been busy during xmas - had a few small screwups on the DIY bamboo/fiber/carbon rebuild, mostly aesthetic stuff, but I had the time and I still had all the mats, so I pressed a new board. this time I made it even larger and a little wider - its now exactly 1m long, actually a larger wheelbase than the vanguard flex3 even though it doesnt have a bottle nose. its nearly 2cm wider to give a little more leverage when carving. again 5 plys of bamboo with 4 GFK layers in between.
here it is - its quite a giant, nearly as large as the whole flex2 vanguard, also nearly the same wheelbase. 
the last time I had a few screwups cause I just didnt take enough time to prepare everything perfecly. this time I was meticulous and drew ALL the needed lines beforehand, even the lines where I would place the router guidances. predrilled all the holes for enclosures so that when I vacuum the board and the enclosures, I can already see the holes and have perfect alignment!
after routing I had quite a few router bit burn marks. sadly, because my original plan was to put a transparent GFK layer on the board and make the enclosures transparent with gfk only. wouldve been awesome tbh, but there was no way I would get rid of the burn marks properly (or well, with a TON of sanding maybe). I routed an extra deep hole for the vesc heat sinks 
overall routed deeper this time, to allow some sealing tape under the enclosures and still sit flush with the board surface. this time the screw holes are also placed much better (= closer to the corners of the enclosure). on my original vanguard that was a weak spot.
the other side holding the 6S3P part of the 10S4P battery is a lot less complicated.
the electronics are very compact, i reduced the number of capacitors to 1x 2200uf and now all I got is a 2 x 9.5cm area for receiver, on/off switch (loop key) and charge port. worst case, Ill piggyback the receiver pcb directly ontop of the vesc. just dont want ESC magnetic noise to disturb the reception. hmhm 
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beautiful as always. Hope you don’t mind me asking but what are you going to do with the “old” deck you replaced with this one? 
it will be dropped on the pile of “lessons learnt” (next to my first topspeed). poke me if you want to tinker with it …
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Will you use a BMS for this one ? If yes, how will you manage the cables between the 2 enclosures ?
Hi Randyc1, our pulleys will probably not fit the kegels. The 90 mm wheels are all made and will soon arrive at Our HQ in Nottingham. We ordered them in high rebound premium urethane, so quality should be really nice. Frank
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@whitepony is known for not using a BMS. Basically he is the reason why I felt confident enough to not use one as well. With quality 18650 cells drift is not an issue so a BMS is not crucial to have. Also look at the tight fit he is using - there is not even space for a BMS 
This deck reminds me of the one that roarockit europe built.
Dope build as always. Looks like sort of a snow board to me and with Ronin’s I know it will handle like a dream. Also like like the blueprint drawings looks like artwork inspiration to finally finish my build.
i just love the deep shimmer of carbon <3
flex is perfect again: 5x bamboo, 4x fiberglas alternating, finally 1x carbon after routing seems to be really great for my weight of 82kg. since I made the board even longer (100cm now) and I carved out more wood (2mm over the whole area), I used thicker fibreglas to counter that. on my last board 200g/m^2, now I used 390g/m^2. feels like the boards have pretty much the same flex, so either the fibreglas didnt have a big impact anyway sandwiched in between bamboo, or I was just lucky once again.
tomorrow ill connect the batteries and hopefully i can finish the enclosures this week. id really like to try to use the part themselves as mold. has anyone ever tried that?
I would expect some not so awesome looking enclosures, but the perfect fit and the slimmest possible profile. I mean, its under the board, in my case even 2mm inside the board - you wouldnt see much of the enclosure anyway. 
directly unwrapped:
after cutting and some quick sanding:
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added the battery connections, just used 12awg this time so I wouldnt have to dig out that much (its actually mostly about the exit of the wires - the wire runs partly under the 18650 cells and a 10awg wire would not really fit under that too well. in the end its just a single motor cruiser with probably 10-20A current average, so Im not very worried.
the channels are filled with resin and to make it perfectly flush, I used fine putty and one more time sanding:
and thats how the other side looks like - battery plus pole arriving near the loop key enclosure spot, the shorter one is the serial connection between the split packs. the copper heat sinked vesc is now perfectly flush with the board surface and every single part of its surface is touching the board, so when I apply pressure, the mosfest and the JST plugs will evenly share the load.
finally the sweet 5/4 bamboo/fibreglas + 1x carbon board flank you can see that its not particularly thin, but its also not particularly thick.
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I have a couple of quick questions.
What vacuum pump do you use? Where did you get the vacuum bag from? Do you have any pictures that show you routing the board and any beginner tips or anything that you read that helped you during the process.
You have the best builds in the community, keep going!
heya! this is probably my most comprehensive collection of all the things I ever did: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=81928
kinda everything is in there - routing, vacuum, enclosure building, battery building, just everything.
my pump is a very small laboratory membrane pump from KNF. its very convenient to use, because it doesnt need oil and its very silent too … but its also quite expensive.
I get most of my stuff from www.r-g.de - think there isnt any other shop like theirs and they are extremely knowledgeable about anything really. just contact them with questions, they are awesome!
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Love your builds and great pictures. I find myself hitting the like button on lot of your stuff.
Keep up the great work and keep pushing the DIY esk8.
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One question: Wouldn’t it be a problem with the battery wires that long (or is that only the VESC)? I’ve read somewhere that they should not exceed 30cm
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