[Raptor Dual] One motor starts breaking. (short in windings) Solution found

I think it is luck that you got one good. Seems like there is a Monday batch out there.

Well, it got even better. The vesc from that motor doen’t give any output anymore. I’ve heatshrinked the motor like it should. it’s working on the other vesc. I can connect to it with the BLDC-tool, but motor detection fails and nothing is happening when I throttle. What should I check on the vesc ? Or what is probably broken on it ?

Any burn marks on the DRV?

At first didn’t see anything, now i doublechecked there is a small burn on the drv… Is that an expensive component and is it replacable without programming?

Dammit !

If your soldering skills (hot air) allow it. The chip is something around 8€

Just replace it and with a bit of luck it will work flawlessly again(if nothing else is fried).

I have this problem too(board breaks randomly when riding) . All the wires are touching each other on the inside and moves freely when wiggling them around (doing so causes the motor to sometimes go bananas). One of the wires has gone slightly black (burned). Contacted enertion support 1.5 weeks ago and no response yet. Ping @carl.1.

If it’s not the remote it’s the motor or some other shit. When this gets fixed the batteries will probably catch on fire and burn the whole thing to ashes.

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I feel you, mine has spent more time on the bench tweaking and repairing then actually cruzin’. Still, it’s one of the best on the market. These are first batches, you have to expect some child deseases, giving them a chance to learn from those mistakes. I’ve been helped everytime, sometimes it takes a couple days. I can’t imagine what a chaos his garage must be at this point when he has to get all those shipments out.

As for trying to help you (on the short run): Do you have a little bit of electricity skills? (please don’t be offended, I just don’t know your background) So you have the motor removed. Good, You have all the cir-clips removed as well, so now push it open, removing the bell and rotor from the stator. If your bullet connectors are still connected, give them a little twink and they should just pop out of the back of the VESCs that have been glued in. Get yourself the right size of heatshrink and push it as far as you can over the exposed copper wires inside so they are nicely isolated. This way they can’t short anymore and this part of your problem is fixed. If you have a dual, do it for the other motor as well, since this will go the same road as this one.

Contact enertion support again, replying on the previous support mail with a kind reminder. They will get back to you as soon as they can, I promise. But given his wife just gave birth and all the backorders coming in from the VESC’s that just arrived, give em some time to catch up… I’m in the same boat with my vesc DRV thats fried, but I’m sure I will get response before the end of the week.

do you have another motor to try on for the braking issues? Mine was like that and it was my VESC. Kept riding slowly, braking randomly by itself (more like stuttering), and it completely has no response but there were still lights and NO RED error flashes either. Friend replaced some parts and fixed my VESC.

Well the jiggling the wires around causes the same thing in the bench and the wire is burnt inside the motor. Also smells kinda funny when doing so. Pretty sure that’s the problem. No other VESC available at this time unfortunately.

Yeah, actually I was on my way to try and fix it today but lacked the tool required to get the small screws out of the motor. Probably should be possible but it’s not like I wanna risk fixing it crappy myself vs. getting a good working one.

It seems several of us are having the same or similar problems. I went 4 months without any issues, so I guess I’ve been lucky, but the brakes slamming on expectedly is not something I ever want a repeat of.

I have not yet taken my motor apart, but it appears the issue was my slave VESC. I disconnected the slave VESC side motor and powered the board up and the slave VESC sparked and caught fire. I removed slave VESC and powered the board up and the master VESC and motor are working fine.

Has anyone experienced this issue on the master VESC…or is it always the slave vesc/motor…and if so, why?

Btw be carefull when you try to undo those, with the small allen key and the threadlocker on there they get twisted over easily. Do it by hand if you can. I had to drill one over at each motor because of this, but I had spare bolts at home for those…

There have been lots of issues regarding the VESC and 63** motors, They are actually at the limit. If you want to read more, head over to the VESC 6.0 thread :

http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/vedders-vesc-6-0/

I’m running my personally built board (not raptor, 1 VESC only, more info here) so no slave VESC here and as mentioned, short in motor is confirmed (although not 100% the braking was caused by this). As you can see in my previous picture the wires are slightly black where they touch the most, might as well just have one motor connector instead of 3 LOL.

Is this a recurring issue with the Raptor Dual? Getting my Raptor soon so I want to be pre-cautious.

The new motors I’ve got only leave like a cm of copper exposed when they go in. So they aknowledged that production issue. I would however advice you to stiffen the cables anyway so they can barely move. Burning DRV chips on the VESC is also a common problem with those big motors.

Another hint for you guys, if you lost confidence in the board. Stop keeping the throttle always on, if you’re not accellerating. Just let it coast, give some extra when your about to slow down. It will keep the motor from shorting and braking and a bit of extra range if you use it wisely

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Hmm, sounds like I’ll have to put some Velcro on the wires so that it’ll stick to the board. I wonder if this is a known issue for Raptors.

You could pot or do a conformal coating on the windings with high heat epoxy. Most motors come with enough on there that wires aren’t moving around and rubbing and shorting. J and b weld is filled with metal and conductive and not a good choice. Omega 100 high heat epoxy for 10$.

Hi guys.

Just a reminder.

Your raptors are all under warranty. Email [email protected] with photos and video of your problems.

There was a batch of about 80 motors made with excess copper inside. This problem has been resolved now.

If you have a motor with excess copper and you have not got over heating problems or any obvious issues yet I recommend securing the wires internally with epoxy.

Spare parts will be sent for free. We also will have ample stock of vesc to send for replacing failed vesc.

Replacing parts on raptor is fairly straight forward. If you get stuck we can help with instructions or find a repair agent nearby to assist…

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Not having a complete Raptor (got many parts though) but seem to have motor with the same issue. Opened a ticket July 4th on the website, no answer yet, should I still email?