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Project Paragon | Trampa E-MTB | Tacon 160 | Custom Composite Enclosure | Chain Drive | Ongoing Build Log


#1

Hello,

After completing a pintail build and riding around, I nearly fell a few times due to going over small rocks. I have also experienced speed wobble at around 25mph. To kill two birds with one stone; I decided on a mountainboard build. Most electric mountain boards that I have seen looked extremely heavy and ugly (with the exception of E-Toxx builds), and I didn’t like the idea of having a box of lithium under my legs :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: . Here is my shot at a sleek electric mountain board:

My enclosure is made from G10 (CF blocks my GT2B signal) and Aluminum), and there is still a couple of inches of ground clearance below it. I have designed it for dual drive, but for now I will only use one motor. There is plenty of space in the box for lipos, escs, motors, wiring, etc. I am also working on V2 which will work with channel/spring trucks. My custom enclosure is extremely sturdy so far, and I may even sell some kits, if there is interest.

Current Setup:
Tacon 160
FVT120a esc
6s 5.2ah Multistar Lipo
10T motor sprocket
55T electric scooter sprocket (mounted using my G10 adapter)
25 chain
Cool looking voltmeter, light-up switch, and loop key


ESk8 Craigslist!
MTB with easy to add/remove motor
#2

Awesome! Could you post some more pics of the whole board and maybe inside the enclosure? Good job.


#3


#4

So I finally figured out my 5 pin 12v switch, sort of.
Here is a picture of the switch:


I installed it in place of the switch on my FVT120a esc (same as diyesk8’s 6s esc) and matched up the wire colors to the chart above; everything worked, but when I powered the esc, it wouldn’t exit programming mode.

Next I tried powering the switch from my receiver. I bridged the “+” and “NO1” pins and soldered the positive wire from my rx, then soldered the negative rx wire to the “-” pin. I soldered the white wire from the esc’s old switch to “C1” This time it worked perfectly, on 3s. When I plugged in my 6s battery, the positive wire vaporized and my receiver died.

I’ll be trying the following configuration next (if anyone knows the correct combination, feel free to help a temporarily multimeter-less fellow like me):

  • and NO1 powered from a 12v bec
  • also connected to the 12v bec
    C1 connected to the white wire from the esc’s old switch.

#5

sweet build mate, i like the wire braiding!

will you be using foot straps?


#6

Or would white wire (from the old esc switch) to “C1,” black wire (from old esc switch) to “-” ,and “+” and “NO1” bridged and connected to my 12v bec work?


#7

Thanks Onloop!
I’ll be getting matching white and black bindings as my reward when I finally get my switch working :joy:


#8

sorta looks cool without bindings


#9

@onloop
Yeah,
I’ll probably keep this one as a cruiser, and build a matching 2 wheel drive Trampa with channel trucks and bindings.

On another note, can you help me with the switch? :wink:


#10

So no one knows how to wire this switch?


#11

I have switch with similar pin layout, though i havn’t plugged in the lighting on it.
I had to use a multimeter to figure out which pole did what since the schematic wasn’t correct.

This is what i ended up with for on/off operation

Yes, it looks terrible, I need to get a new soldering iron :stuck_out_tongue:


#12

Thanks! So outermost pins are probably for powering the led and the remaining pin stays untouched?


#13

Yes, should be if i read the schematic correctly.


#14

This is the schematic for my switch, might help you figure it out if with the lighting.
Though it assumes you’re using 12 volts through the switch as well, so if it’s not powered by 12 volts i don’t think it can be wired the same way.


#15

More complications:
After frying my rx, I decided to power the esc with a different rx to see if it still functioned. My esc fried immediately, but hopefully it is not beyond repair. I have attached a picture of the burnt piece of the esc, and I’m wondering if anyone has access to the schematics (or is willing to take apart their fvt120a) so that I could find out the part that I need to replace.


#16

SUCCESS! Here is the correct wiring for anyone else who may have had similar issues with this switch.


#17

By the way, the newest batch of FVT120a escs comes with a third cap externally installed.


#18

Nice little project! Congratualtions from Trampa. If you want to build a spring truck version, feel free to give me a buzz. Frank

frank@trampaboards.com


#19

Dude that mountainboard is sweet!!! Damn!! :open_mouth:


#20

Hey, i am looking at getting a set of those wheels for my build. How did you mount the sprocket to them?