@Flashgod224 what settings u ended up using?
The FESC 6.6 seems to be the ESC to go for flipsky. The voltage readings are pretty much fucked though.
thats something i can’t wrap my head around. why did they not notice this
No QC or real life testing
1 Like
So the polls here and general forum posts are pretty clear now. Please correct me if I am wrong so that I can adjust this for future buyers.
Motors are 50/50 and not recommended due to epoxy and magnet issues. Especially the 6374 4.20 dual appears to just about work on 10s and lower BDLC on moderate settings 4.12 single is decent with reasonable settings, even on FOC. 4.20 mini single isn’t worth buying over the 4.12 single 6.6 single works well, decent settings, FOC 6.6 dual works well, decent settings, FOC
Flipsky do support the products, they are aware of the issues and are actively trying to resolve them at a manufacturing level.
Refunds, replacements and communication is happening, if a little slow some times.
As with everything at this price point a solid visual inspection is needed before plugging in.
Looks like the real winners here are the 4.12 single in my opinion, the 6.6’s will give you great results on top end boards but bang for your buck on a mid range build that 4.12 is a beast at ~$55 with a aluminium case at ~$30 on eBay.
Comments or corrections?
5 Likes
I think the motors that have the most problems are the 6355s, bot the 6374s?
Can anyone confirm this please?
I am running the 6354 motors, no issues.
2 Likes
Looks like they’ve taken to stocking the same set that diyeboard sell?
https://flipsky.net/collections/new-accessories/products/copy-of-bldc-belt-motor-6374-190kv-3250w
diyeboard:
- (2) N5055 Motor Mounted (Black, 270KV, 1400W/Motor)
- (1) 7.25’’ Rear Truck with two 83*52mm PU wheels mounted(Black/Red)
- (2) Motor Mount (Black)
- (2) 35T Drive Wheel Pulley (HTD5) 13mm width
- (2) 13T Motor Pulley (HTD5) 13mm width
- (2) 250-5M High Torque Timing Belt (HTD5) 12mm width
Flipsky:
- 2* N5055 Motor Mounted (Black/Red, 270KV, 1200W)
- 2* Bolt On Motor Mount (Black)
- 2* 7.25’’ Truck (Black)
- 2* 35T Drive Wheel Pulley (HTD5) 13mm width
- 2* 13T Motor Pulley (HTD5) 13mm width
- 2* 250-5M High Torque Timing Belt (HTD5) 12mm width
- 4* Wheels: 83mm*56mm 83a Longboard Wheels
They list 1200w vs 1400w at diyeboard but these are the same product right?
I wonder if they know these trucks routinely snap in half.
@BarbaraZ care to comment?
I’m going to purchase the 6354 motors for my build. I read somewhere on this forum that the loose magnet issue with the 6374 motors was probably due to the cans swelling with heat, rather than the type of glue used. Perhaps it’s feasible that this issue doesn’t affect the 6354 motors as smaller surface area of can = less swelling?
The solder ball issue is obviously still concerning, but it sounded like maybe they’re addressing this going forward. I haven’t read of any actual problems this has caused with flipsky motors… but there’s obviously potential for significant issues if the solder balls were to short the windings.
Some news for the dual 4.20 Plus 10s max 30A/motor https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0011/4039/1996/products/01_d4f45a48-32ae-41e2-869d-05ad206a4471_1800x1800.jpg?v=1543545669
@mmaner is there any point in setting 50a on battery if motors are only taking 30a max? Shouldn’t be the same to set bat at 30a?
It’s let’s the battery drain as fast as the ESC can demand. At least in theory. I haven’t really tested accross multiple boards.
1 Like
I would just like to add that I’ve been running two (singles) mini FSESC 4.20s on delta-wound (reterminated) 8-in hoverboard hub motors in sensored FOC, and I’ve had little issues with them over 50 miles. 10s lipo (super cells from jehu garcia’s listing on ebay, these things REALLY pack the power).
The only problem I’ve had is that they can’t handle prolonged stall conditions and instant flooring and braking. Throws a DRV fault. Positive ramping time solved the latter, not attacking 50% grades solved the former.
I got up to 22 mph before almost cracking my head open. (The board could have easily done 25+mph, and I was being an idiot).
From the DRV8302 datasheet, DRV faults are thrown during overcurrent, overvoltage and undervoltage conditions on gate drive and power supply. In the schematics, overcurrent protection is disabled (but can still trigger at extreme VDS thresholds, I actually need to check if Flipsky might have actually implemented a divider for OC_ADJ). Considering the same caps are used on the 6.6, it is likely not a power supply UV or OV fault. The only difference between the 4.20 and 4.12 is the choice of MOSFETs and bypass capacitor placement (which, I would think, are both better on the 4.20, but the 4.12 uses larger capacitors to compensate). The 4.20 mini uses only one set of NTMFS5C628NLT1G MOSFETs, so my best guess as to why the faults are occurring are either the large slew rates (because the gate charge on these fets is REALLY good) causing a overvoltage or undervoltage event, or that the MOSFET body diodes are actually saturating during dead-time. I am thinking this because in VESC tool, the DRV faults were thrown around 40A during low speed, high torque demand conditions, this means current slew rate is very high. In the NTMFS5C628NLT1G’s datasheet, the graph for body diode forward voltage cuts off at 40A. This is just a hunch, but many signs are pointing that it is some aspect with the MOSFETs that are triggering the DRV faults people are seeing.
Taking a closer look at the 4.20 mini, the PCB is reasonably well designed; components are neatly laid out and bypass capacitors are placed where they are needed and the tracks minimize parasitics. It just seems like a piece of junk because it really can’t handle many of the heavy loads some of the users here have tested it with. Honestly, I think it would be perfect for lighter builds (like 5065 or 6355 single motor with max speed of 15-20 mph). It only has one set of MOSFETs that have twice the RDSon of the FETS on the 4.12 and are rated for half the current (but they have one-tenth the gate charge, so they are ideal for FOC, actually).
For heavier builds (like climbing hills from a standstill or any kind of racing), the 4.20 is definitely not suited for the task. For lighter and/or cost-effective builds, I think it would fit right in. It is more compact than the 4.12 and generates less heat in FOC because of the (MUCH) lower switching losses.
I would actually recommend FSESC over TB ESCs, my friend ordered two VESCs from DIYEletricSkateboard and one of the VESCs literally died on his second use when configuring it for FOC (the DRV 8302 gate driver circuit failed). I then tried a pair of TB VESCs with my motors; there was quite a bit of cogging during tuning and start-up and they also couldn’t handle stall conditions. Motors ran much more smoothly with the FSESCs.
If my hunch is correct, then using hot air rework to replace the mosfets with something like the NTMFS5C604NLT1G might solve the DRV fault issues. But, those MOSFETs are twice as expensive and have 2.5 times the gate charge.
7 Likes
Thanks for the input. I run my setup using 5055 270kv motors, with battery current max of 20A in 10s. Everything works fine in BLDC. In FOC if I hard throttle or hard braking, then DRV_fault happens, and it cuts off for a second. However if I ease on the throttle, I can still climb steep hills here in SLC. Now I’m scared to run in FOC because it once cut off on me when I had to brake because I was close to people. I actually tried changing the time to cut off from 500ms to 0ms in the advanced settings section of vesc tool, but still didn’t work, just didn’t report any DRV_fault, but still cut off.
Just curious, how fully charged were your batteries when you attempted this? I noticed I can sometimes trigger overvoltage (triggered on MCU firmware, not DRV) faults if I send too much charging current, this is usually if I have a BMS installed on the battery as I’m guessing the BMS is cutting off the motor controller because one (or more) of the cells can’t handle the charging current.
Also, your motors are reasonably high speed, so you are not losing much from not running FOC.
Longer ramping time and/or more gradual throttle curve should reduce the number of cutouts as it is very large changes in current that trigger the DRV faults the most.
I can understand the situation, you want to stop, but put just too much throttle and the ESC cuts out from the rapid change in current, which is why the 4.20 should be used with lower speed and lighter builds. You also have to play around with the braking to make sure you have enough to stop on a dime but not to trigger a fault. I got it to cut out a couple times by slamming the brakes while going downhill, luckily I have a handbrake just for that situation, haha (but it really wasn’t needed as I was able to reset the motor controllers and ease up on the brake).
I’ve bypassed the discharge on my BMS, so now the 4.20 can directly draw/charge the 10s pack. It happens across all voltages, from 40V down to 30V.
I think you’re right, like drastical change in current can throw DRV fault.
Well yeah the motor can still reset, but like in some emergency situation, you’d want it to keep braking instead of releasing the brake for a split second. It actually threw me off balance when I tried to brake, leaned backwards, then suddenly cut out so board kept moving forward, then I fell.
1 Like
So I used @mmaner ‘s config with @rey8801’ smad hubs using the vesc tool. With no load works perfect, but applying a little resistance the motor starts clogging… Any idea of what could be happening? Is there another setting I should look for? I used the vesc tool wizard
1 Like
Post screen shots if your config, specifically the BLDC portion.