FOCBOX UNITY $299 | R-SPEC DRIVE KIT $588

Pneumy Pneumy Yeah | Generic Double Drop | Paris Trucks | Sk3 260kV | Custom Mount | 10S | VESC


#1

While I’m waiting for most of my electronic components, I’ve begun assembling the analog bits. I have an Earthwing Superglider deck waiting for my enertion kit, but in the mean time I’ve been slowly assembling the pieces for a pneumatic build. I’ve got enough parts in and on order to complete both, except for a second battery.

The pneumatic build so far includes:

  • A generic bottle nose drop down/through deck sourced from ebay. I chose this deck based on posts by others, which suggested this deck shape would probably work for me.
  • Paris 195mm trucks
  • AlienDrive 5" urban wheel kit

My First set of 5" penumatics from AlienDrive wouldn’t quite work…


The envelope had been slit along the fold and the wheel kit replaced with pocket watches. Ugh. Thankfully, Richard got another set in the mail very quickly. The good news is that wheel bite is not a problem with this set up. I was unsure about that.

I’ve thought a lot about methods to allow some flex in the enclosure / mounting. For the mockup, at least, I’m playing with this:


Dirt cheap, very flexible, and robust. It’s not quite plug and play, as the shape includes center depressions all the way through the cavity for strength. These might not be an issue for Lipo packs, but for a larger battery, there’s not enough room with them. The ends are also open. I might one day try to use a cutout of the StealthFlow over a vac form mold to allow flexing near the center or something.

At any rate, here’s the mock up, so far:



The white tabs are just removable 3M “velcro” strips, as I didn’t want to have to work to get tape off the board later. They are not a low-profile as I expected, so they hold the enclosure off the board a bit. I’ve also only got them on the ends, hence the aluminum block to hold the shield to the board for the picture.

With the truck through-mounted, in addition to the small drop, it’s not surprising this shield will just about scrape the ground when turning hard. I don’t think it will be tractable on this board without forgoing the through-mount. Still I like the idea for a cheap cover for board-mounted electronics on a board with a little more clearance. You can even cut it, then use the two original ends as the middle, as they couple to each other, allowing easier removal of one side.


#2

Looks great so far. The down pipe extension looks really cool. Hopefully you can make it work.

What’s the go with the watch? Did it get sent instead of a wheel pulley?


#3

Yeah, the envelope came in the plastic USPS bag, apologizing for the package being damaged. I’ve seen this once before in my life. The envelope, wasn’t really torn up, though - just the folded end was slit, and taped, and that’s what I found inside. I’d love to know what really happened.

Edit: Oops, I didn’t mean “yeah” to this:

I got the watches instead of the entire kit!


#4

I can’t tell you how many times I have wandered the isles of home depot looking for inspiration on a build. Would have been nice if I had ever noticed the down pipe extensions…that board is going to look amazing all blacked out too! Nice work


#5

Thanks!

Exactly what I was doing. I almost didn’t go back into the corner where those were. I think I said “jackpot” out loud when I saw them, ha. Do you think it’s feasible to cut a section and lay it across the center of a mold to get the flexible profile when vac forming? Do you think it’s worth it? I know you have said your enclosures are already somewhat flexible. Probably it’s not something I can get to experimenting with any time soon.


#6

That’s a good question…It’s inexpensive enough to experiment with for sure. Maybe I’ll grab a couple and check it out for you.


#7

@emotiva wow that’s a great idea, the board looks awesome! @psychotiller I think everyone has taken a slow walk through the hardware store hoping that the perfect enclosure was out there somewhere. @emotiva I’m looking forward to seeing it all built up. How flexy is the deck? I bought a generic ebay deck in my first attempt but it was way too flexy to envision mounting parts onto (despite being advertised as stiff).

Also, do you get to keep the watch? Because hey, free watch!


#8

@treenutter, Thanks! I searched based on a couple examples I found around ES, and in just looking now, I realize it was @psychotiller’s pneumatic build (Link) that used this deck! Thanks @psychotiller! I was really concerned about wheel bite being an issue, so wanted a proven shape. It’s definitely a little flexy, which he noted and addressed by adding fiberglass. I think I’m going to try to accommodate the flex and see how that goes. I’ve got about half a dozen other boards I want to try, but I figured I better stop at two until I actually get something built.

I did get to keep the watches (3!), but they are probably worth about $0.67, collectively. I was very impressed that they each came packaged with a button cell battery.


#9

I added 4 layers of fiberglass to the deck and it stiffened it right up


#10

I found this vid that explains the process of layering fiberglass very clearly in case anyone is inclined to try it.


#11

hell yeah that drain pipe looks like some serious H R Giger shit. If you can make a polished case out of that you will have earned the aesthetic trophy in my book.


#12

Well, I have a new life goal. Seriously though, I want to experiment with molding over it, but that’s going to have to wait. Too much other stuff going on at the moment.


#13

More progress… I Mocked up a prototype motor mount today out of some Nylon stock I had.

The impetus for using the nylon was mainly that if I can avoid clamping metal onto the nice, painted truck, I’d prefer to. I was pleased with the amount of friction I got upon tightening up the bracket without anything between the nylon and truck and think it’s going to be enough. I may end up doing just the truck mount out of nylon and use aluminum for the motor side if heat is an issue - It sounds like the motors shouldn’t get very hot if the system is geared properly, but I’m not sure what to expect with the 14:60 ratio and 125mm wheels. Thoughts? I need to look up the characteristics of nylon vs temperature.

At any rate, It will definitely not be the final design, or color. I’ll use a thicker slice next time for the truck, mainly so I’ve got plenty of room to countersink, etc. You can see where I chipped an edge off due to being too close to the edge. I also cracked it along one endge boring out a screw hole too quickly. A few other ideas in mind as well, but it works for laying out the design, so I’m satisfied.

Clearance looks good at full turn:


#14

@emotiva nice looking prototype! I’ve had very little heat after an hour of riding with the same drivetrain. By the end of a ride my motor is just barely warm, definitely not “hot.” Of course riding conditions, the battery you select and your motor will impact this. I see you’ve got an SK3 but I can’t see which one it is.


#15

One thing i love about this forum are all the motor mounting schemes. I’ve never seen one made from nylon before, so i’m very interested in how well it wears.


#16

Thanks, and good to hear that your motor doesn’t get hot with that gearing. One of the perks to the nylon that I’m hoping for is no need for thread lock (that may be too optimistic) or at least less vibration to the motor. That sk3 is a 6354. I just bought two of them as backup when they came back in stock recently, since it was an issue for a while. However, given the fact that I’ve accrued almost enough parts for two boards, I’ll prob just bite the bullet and buy or make another battery and just do two boards - sk3s on this one and r-spec on the urethane board.

@longhairedboy, will keep you posted!


#17

You can always use heatshrink to wrap around the truck part. It should help to be more rigid and help to prevent any flex and vibrations.


#18

Good idea, will keep that in mind.


#19

@kai In order to make the “E-board Builds” category really easy to search & locate specific builds i am asking that you change your title to something descriptive that better expresses the makeup of your build.

Most of the new build threads tend to end up with a name such as
"new- noob - noobie - beginner - first - build - help - newb" this becomes hard to keep track of.

I would like to see each build thread with a descriptive title, such as;
Project Name | Deck Name | Trucks | Motor type | Mounting method | Voltage/Battery | ESC

Example
The Samurai | Custom Deck | Paris Trucks | R-SPEC | Custom Mount | 10S | VESC


#20

@onloop : good initiative, will make posts easier to fathom. Suggestion, perhaps you could create a sticky with these posting rules ?