FOCBOX UNITY $299 | R-SPEC DRIVE KIT $588

Please review my first build | Planning Phase | Single Drive 12S VESC


#1

Hey Everyone!

Been researching and looking to make a new board for the light commute! Wanting to make a single motor board with the option to add another motor later on. I’m a bit unsure on the compatibility of the electronics. If you see any problems, let me know.


#2

looks like a solid list and build. A couple suggestions and concerns.

if you want 12s you will want <200kv motor. I know DIYes is getting a 190kv sensored motor option soon. The R-Spec from enertion is another option, and there’s always the SK3’s from HK.

You should read up on the 60k ERPM limit to avoid damaging your VESC - might decide to go w/ a different motor setup and lower # series batteries? I usually go 8-10s to be a bit more cautious and not push my VESC’s.

Charger - that’s for a SPACE cell - look at the iMax/SkyRC B6ACv2 if you want an inexpensive but good starting charger that doesn’t need a AC to DC power supply. Slower than an icharger or similar, but the non-clones are pretty nice!

Tx/Rx - i would go with the tried/true GT2b myself - $25, then print your own enclosure (badwolf, master cho, baby buffalo, etc.) or have one printed from 3dhubs for a few $ more.

BMS - i’d skip until you get going. Use lipo or similar to start and upgrade later.

skip the battery meter as well. Get a low voltage alarm instead to alarm/yell at you when voltage on any cell in the pack gets below 3.x volts (set in alarm where you want - i usually do 3.7 or 3.6v).
like this - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_90762__Turnigy_Lipo_Battery_Voltage_Tester_2_8S_and_Low_Voltage_Buzzer_Alarm_AU_Warehouse.html

Batteries - i personally like multiple thinner batteries w/ a harness to run in series vs a single big 6s/8s/12s battery. cheaper, modular (if one has an issue) and lower profile under the deck. so some 3s x 3 for 9s, or x4 for 12s. i shoot for <30mm thickness on their “C” size on HK.

misc - i’d look at a loop key and pick a single type of battery connector. I like XT90’s, but just pick one as in the long run it’ll help you a lot to simplify.

my .02 - HTH and GL!


#3

Thanks for the 2c.

Good advice. I might do a simpler battery set up and upgrade when I’m more knowledgeable. I’ve amended my build

What connectors and miscellaneous things would I need to put all the electronics together or missing?


#4

Mid August - 6355 170KV and 190KV motors will be in stock. Week of the 15th. Same time we have a huge stock of VESCs coming. We shouldn’t ever be out of stock anymore :joy:


#5

A good solder station if you don’t have one is nice. At least a good soldering iron w/ adjustable heat and swappable tips (you need hot and large tips for bigger wire).

Good silicone wire 12/10g or so. Superworm and wet noodle i think are the easy ones to find on Amazon and not too $.

Heat shrink tube, and a standard connector - XT90’s my preferred. If you get some anti-spark xt90’s they make great anti-spark loop keys!

Some small 22-24g silicone wire is also great for misc wiring - canbus between VESCs, Rx wires to VESC, small LCD power displays etc.

And the regular skateboard stuffs - a good skate tool, some good bushings for your weight (i like the SHR venom/blood orange/ and similar). Mounting hardware and risers or shock pads. If not gripped already - some viscious griptape is great too - or similar coarse grip (preference).

A parallel charging board is great to have (still good to individually balance cells occasionally). Buddy RC’s paraboard is the best one i’ve found, but $$ - plenty of less $ on HK.
http://www.buddyrc.com/power-system/paraboard-parallel-charge-board.html

GL!


#6

Why would you get a dual motor mechanical kit for a single motor setup?


#7

Wanting to make a single motor board with the option to add another motor later on.


#8

can I ask how you embedded the spreadsheet?

thanks lol


#9

just paste a google drive spread sheet link


#10

what @jrpwit said