Motor-Turnigy SK3 213kv Motor Mount-DIY Unless available option Belt-Unknown Width or Center length Pinion Gear-15 teeth Spur Gear-32 Wheels-Abec 11 83mm Flywheels Transmitter/Reciever-Unknown/suggestions ESC-Unknown/suggestions Batteries- 2xzippy 4s 8000mah in series
As you can see I’ve focused on the drive train for the start. I currently own a drop through long board that i plan to install all of this on. I’ve done some calculations using “Calc RC”. This current drive train should give me roughly 28 mph or 46 km/h, minus real world resistance (May have horribly miscalculated, who knows :p). I’m open for all suggested changes and additions for missing components. I have some prior experience with the involved electronics but nonetheless, I’m a noob…
Save yourself the trouble and get a vesc! Its indefinably worth it especially for the price. I recommend getting one for Ollin Board Company run by chaka. He will repair it if it ever gets damaged or broken with his 12 month warranty on all his vescs.
Matt - it’s nice to have for sure, but not necessary. Anti-spark itself isn’t truly needed (it reduces wear on contacts and electrical surge to ESC). So you can skip to start, or go simple w/ an XT-90 anti spark loop key:
Or go w/ the full push button anti spark from Enertion/DIYes and others.
Like others - i’d recommend the GT2b (only ~$25!) - and put in a smaller case later (badwolf, mad monkey, baby buffalo, etc.).
Single motor setup - 12 or 15mm wide. 9mm is tough to keep tight enough to avoid skipping when braking hard (like avoiding someone who isn’t paying attention). I’d get a set of gears w/ belts from DIYes or Enertion.
83mm Abecs - perfect. exactly my preferred starting point. Larger is great for rough roads, but 83 is about the best all-around and starting point IMO.
VESC - you won’t be disappointed. Just be careful to start and stick to the 60k ERPM limit to avoid DRV issues. I’d also start out BLDC and wait for FOC (or v6 VESC) to be more mature. YMMV.
Batteries - if you are going VESC, i might suggest thinner batteries in series like 3s packs - then you can do 6/9s for slow/fast setups (great to give a friend 6s to avoid hurting themselves on test-ride). Less expensive and i like the lower profile option. Personal preference so no biggie either way.
Charger - Check out the SkyRC iMax b6ACv2. All-in-one vs a charger and ACtoDC power supply. Not as fast as an iCharger (206/306), since it maxes at 5/6A vs 20/30a of iCharger - but simpler and still has features like Internal Resistance test and a great reputation as a good charger IMO. I have iCharger 306 and Dell server power supplies for 24v 1500W… but not really needed 99% of the time for a slow charge to ride the next day… And slower charge (like .5 C) = longer pack life which is nice too. In a rush to ride after work - it’s nice to have ability to do 5C (as an example - each pack will have max C rating) charging - but tough on the pack and you need something “beefier” than the B6ACv2.
I’ve been using this mini RC remote (got mine from Diy) since 12/15 and it has been totally dependable and easy to use with excellent throttle and braking range. I put 2 lithium AA batteries in mine in Dec and they are still going strong!
I personally like that better than a remote with a rechargeable battery that has to be charged often. And I just carry a couple extra AA’s in my pack with a small screw driver incase they run out.
It connects instantly with the receiver when you turn it on. And if you turn it off, the board just sits idle waiting for a signal.
You actually dont need an anti-spark switch but If you want you build to look professional then you should get one. Bestech offers BMSs with an e-switch on them but I actually just tried to buy from them but it was too much trouble. I don’t thinks they know English very well. 21 emails and a whole week of emailing I could not get them to send the specific BMS that I wanted eventhough I said so many times that I wanted an E-switch. Anyways other people seem to not have a problem with Bestech but I didn’t. Im just going with a batterysupport BMS and a 60 dollar anti-spark. I really dont want to spend that much on the switch but I want my build to look professional.
Anyways you can get two xt-90 antispark connectors from hobbyking for 6 bux to make a loop key. So you can either play 6 bux for the loop key or 60 bux for the switch. It is your choice. I just like to spend money