Planning a first build, Help? | FOCbox Unity | Trampa Holypro | DieBieMS | Dual Torqueboards 6380 | Firefly Remote

thanks loads @Andy87 I appreciate the time and thought

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What do you think about the motor choice? Should i stick with it or Change to the 6374’s by tourque boards? Or prehaps should look at another brand?

6374 usually give more than enough torque. But I also have two 6384 170kv from aps. Had some issues in the beginning but love them now. Bigger motors always run cooler and you get a bit more breaking force. I don’t have any torque board parts yet, so I can’t say anything about the motors, buuut I also didn’t read anything bad about them so far. If you don’t mind the extra money and weight than go for the 6384. If you want more speed than torque than look for some 190-200 kV motors. If you plan to drive a lot off-road through dirt and maybe in rain too than I can recommend to get some sealed motors or as min open the motor and cover the sensors with some liquid tape or epoxy (or run unsensored). To me it didn’t happen yet luckily but I read that others blow there vesc because the sensors shorted due to water which came inside of the motor.

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Oooh yikes. Thanks for the forewarning. Ill be on the search then for some alternative options or how to go about sealing them!

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So, after some research, here are my thoughts.

  1. Gonna attempt to waterproof a sensored motor.
  2. Was thinking about switching deck. Instead of plugging holes, why wouldn’t I go for something like an urban carver? Why did @trampa have to stop the hs11 :sweat_smile: I don’t know if there is a physical difference in the deck, but this would mean finding an appropriate enclosure for the urban carver that can fit 12s8p @Eboosted, would this be possible? If not then perhaps I should be looking at More traditional and popular longboard options that the forum like.
  3. Battery choice, I’ve seen Samsung 30q used in so many builds, but have recently come across the Sony VTC6, which offer higher discharge, perhaps this would be a better alternative for such a build? Undecided.
  4. Wheels from TRAMPA seem to have some QC issues, Perhaps I would be better off looking at alternatives.
  5. I’ve read that perhaps the Trampa Infinity is better than the Vertigo for such a build. Considering switching as well.

Thats all that comes to mind right now.

-Zach

Also, regarding the Unity and DieBieMS double switch conundrum, got this solution

Feel stupid for not thinking about it before, but live and learn.

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Alright so, i spent a little of yesterday making some rough drawings of the “electrical system” behind this build, ill put them here for re-collections sake.

ps. sorry for the handwriting pps. please don’t roast my notation

42 16

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Hi Zach, riding E-MTBs all the time, I can give you the advice to let your motors breath as much air as possible. Closed motors are not a good idea. Airflow has a huge impact on motor temp. Superstars never had any QC issues! If you tighten down your wheel nuts in a star pattern they rotate very precise. Most imbalances people experience are a matter of the tire and counterbalancing the valve correctly.

ESC wise I can give you the advice to go for a design that uses 3 high side shunts. FOC operation depends on precise measurement of all motor phases. MTBs don’t like compromises. The strain on them is a lot higher than most people think.

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Glad to hear about the superstars! Looks like i’ll be keeping them there. Regarding the motors, thats what i was thinking, and hence why i went for 6384’s (edge for the cooling) But i really don’t want to compromise on the all terrain aspect of this build. Rain or shine, i want to be able to ride. So what do you think would be a good solution? And then with the ESC’s? Is there a specific brand you recommend? So then powerwise, theunity would not be ideal, correct?

Also, can you confirm the HS11 is discontinued? Thanks!

Dual FOCbox’s on my 6374 build and could not be happier, a slick piece of kit. Will definitely be going with the Unity on my next build.

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Glad to hear! Have you had any issues whatsoever, or are they really that plug and play?!

I wired mine all together in 10s referencing bits and pieces from other builds, then followed a Youtube video some teenager made and it has been going strong ever since. Have been able to hit an indicated 50km/h, with great range no disconnects or issues.

I imagine the Unity will be even easier to hook up, since you do not have to worry about a canbus connector, no messing around with splitting battery outputs or fiddly bluetooth wiring. You won’t even have to connect a USB and can program from their android app i believe.

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Sounds like it will be a blast Cant wait until i have all of the parts and can begin building

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The Unity plays quite nice with EMTB, ask @okp he’s been riding our beta unit. 3 shunts vs 2 shunts doesn’t make much of a difference as long as the 2-shunt design is done intelligently. Just requires a bit more thoughtful layout.

Good luck with your build! I’m looking to get a setup with pneumatics going soon as well, though more for comfortable commuting.

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To be honest, thats really the purpose of my build too. The area i live in is full of hills and paths and bumpy roads, so its close basic mountainboarding :stuck_out_tongue: But for sure, with the terrain around here, theres no way i could run standard skate wheels, id be flying off the board every few metres. As for the Unity, i look forward to seeing other real world tests that can really prove its capabilities! I know countless hours and sleepless nights have gone into it, so i’d love for it to speak for itself and wow us all. Hopefully its the powerhouse i need! And if not, im sure Enertion will make something bigger and better :wink:

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@Deodand, unrelated question regarding ESC’s. How feasible is it for a smart ESC like the unity to implement a feature that would allow users to connect to supported lights (like led strips) to them to function as brake lights? Like when the throttle is decreased, a signal is sent, activating the lights which would signal to brake? This could then be improved to support multi-channel output (like for blinkers) which would be activated via the users remote, and be enforced by the ESC to activate the signal? Or is this already somewhat obtainable through CANBUS attachments? Does this make sense? I’m not sure. But alas, with an ask, because I believe it could be an awesome feature to the market the Unity is targeting and could open a whole new development of esk8 safety.

Totally feasible, there’s actually already some stuff in the vesc codebase for controlling rgb strips but is a bit different. We were discussing maybe a new port standard for connecting smart lights. but that would be on next-gen unities. The main thing is around power delivery/voltage regulation for a standardized port. I.E. do the lights take raw eskate battery voltage which varies widely or does the unity 2.0 provide something like a 12 V 2 Amp bus to tie peripherals to. There’s an onboard IMU could make side lights toggle with board lean for silliness (not as good as hand controlled blinkers obv). I’d love a front light that was like a shredlight but maybe 20x as bright and tied to my eskate battery. If the smart lights take raw battery voltage could just hook them up through CAN bus easy enough.

Anyways, topic for another thread but it’s on our radar. I want smart lights too!

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Awesome to hear! Yeah methods of implementation would be interesting but i think its a step in the right direction, one way or another, especially when you consider how awesome it would be to have blinker buttons on your remote and automatic braking lights. You’d be like a car with more torque and less weight!

yeah, so far it works perfectly. That was about yesterday.

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Looks good! What setup are you running and what speeds are you able to get?