Parts approval and how do I plug in esc? dual hub TRIGGERED!

PARTS:

QUESTIONS:

  • for a dual hub build… what is a good amp rating to go for… this one is 10ah… what kind of range will this give me… what happens if i use the same battery for 1 hub motor… and later upgrade to 2… just curious what happens range wise, speed wise, etc… i assume it would be exactly same just less range?

  • what is a good esc to use? are esc’s rated for voltage?

  • should i use dual esc or 2 single esc… how does one hook 2 individual esc up to battery? whereas dual esc has simple 2 cables that just plug right to positive and negative battery cables. i simply cant find any info on this… outside of pausing a youtube video to MAYBE see a blurry shot of how someone hooked theirs up

COMMENTS:

  • I only weigh 125 lb
  • not using for uphill
  • only want 15mph and actually kinda terrified at that speed…
  • gave up on making a premium $1000 board because r-spec arent for sale individually (which in my opinion is a crime against humanity)
  • i had a mold made in china for custom trucks which will only fit maytech or r-spec hubs
  • extremely small deck which means battery should be short and fat and thick… not long and skinny…

Your telling me that you spent thousands on a mold?

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hundreds of dollars… ive explained it at length multiple times elsewhere in the forums… my reasons for doing so…

Shit for all that you might as well got a Mellow S

how do the mellow hub motors attatch to the trucks? because that would work if they can attatch to ANY truck… then i could just use regular skateboard trucks that fit my needs… instead of making a mold for maytech trucks…

also a company EON… came out with a similar mellow style drivetrain product with a hub motor that fits on ANY truck as long as the hanger is round and the standard diameter… however… it tightens down with some kind of hex bolt… which is not only unreliable… but also high maintainance… and basically requires you to carry around an allen key everywhere you go… i would rather just have a HUB MOTOR TRUCK that locks into place and its a finished product… dont bring us back to the days when you had to constantly tighten the hex head shaft bolt on a belt drive pulley… or constantly had to tighten the e-nertion belt drive motor bracket… or had to charge the battery with an external imax smart charger… i need something i can sell to the village idiot… IF I SO CHOSE…

the truck mold is a one time fee… and it could be mass produced instead of spending a grand on every mellow any time i want more of them…

i cant resist it but it has to be said… does anyone actually wanna offer any solutions that actually make business or personal sense? its a very specific set of needs and parameters…

can someone answer any of the electronics questions for a semi newb… this is like my third DIY board and the electronics stuff is always a big esoteric mystery crap shoot for me… im trying to learn…

Why don’t you make CNC precision parts?

i thought casting a mold is better? also… you mean use my own cnc? wouldnt that be more of a hands on small batches type of thing?

also i really just wanna know about the dual esc and single esc question… and how to hook everything up… what type of battery to use?.. trucks can always be swapped…

You need 2 ESCs if you have 2 motors 1 esc if you have 1 motor

In my opinion, skip buying budget escs and fork out with a VESC

Just use Samsung 30Q cells, the best out there for the money. Maybe a 10S3P config minimum

Not at all

well that was direct lol (as far as precision vs cast)

questions about the Precision CNC stuff

  • still has to be made at a factory for mass production?same as a mold? or can i make it on my own CNC… if i made it on my own cnc mill it probably wouldnt be very precise?? and wouldnt be easy to mass produce at my house lol…

  • is it more or less expensive to make each truck CNC vs Cast… not talking about the initial mold price

  • factory will still ask for a 3d model same as factories that use molds?

  • is the entire point of this to eliminate the initial mold cost?

other questions:

  • is there a specific brand of VESC i should buy… focbox or something? are they expensive?
  • is there a dual motor VESC out there?
  • how do i wire together 2 vescs to one battery? i understand how to hook each vesc up to their respective motor
  • how to wire the wireless remote receiver to 2 seperate vescs?
  • i cant solder battery cells im too scared lol
  • is the 3p battery rating… vs 2p vs 1p etc just affecting the range?
  • is it even possible to use anything but 10s on 36volt motors? actually the motors are 24-36 volt so could i go lower? would there be any strategic reason to do so?

thanks I will go ahead and read that article…

Pm me about the cnc stuff because it’s an esk8 forum

Focbox is good and currently on sale

https://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/FOCBOX-programmable-brushless-motor-controller/

Enertion are working on one

Read more here

Well you current plan is to buy very cheap batteries from China,there are two things you havent thought about.

The cells that they are using wont be suitable for esk8 Import fee Shipping cost (even more because batteries are considered dangerous goods)

You could buy a battery spot welder or use N.E.S.E modules

Hey man totally agree with @moon on the battery issue, do not buy a chinese battery unless you can be sure they are using quality cells. saying that I do have a number of diyeboard that are holding up well. Give great range and very little sag. Go for the 10s5p either that or there are a number of good vendors on this forum. As for focboxes well what can I say? Nothing better available on the market right now and the customer service is second to none. Do and I mean do read every bit of set up research you can find, watch every set up video because there are a number of pitfalls that can be avoided by utilising all content that is freely available. The boxes are a premium product and cost accordingly but when set up properly are reliable with good back up and well worth the cost. Final advice is don’t go cheap and you won’t regret it.

good luck and post the build as you go to avoid silly very easy to make mistakes.

but what kind of battery specs should i get?

if the maytech hubs are 36v 100Kv (their new better model which just came out)

then would a 10s 3p battery work? does the #p matter or does that just affect the range???

what about 10s2p?.. or 10s1p? what is the difference??? 10s4p?? is the S value the only thing that matters here compatibility wise???

Those maytech hubs will be fine on 10s 10s = 10 cells in series 1p/2p/3p etc = amount of cells in parallel

To simplify 1 cell = 3.6 volt 10 cells in series = 36 volts

10s 1p battery will contain 10cells 10s 2p will contain 20 cells and so on As its in parallel it does not affect the voltage but does raise the amp hour rating and this increases range.

The higher the “s” number the higher the voltage the higher the speed of your board The higher the “p” number the higher the amp hour rating and the further your board will go on one charge Obviously the higher the parallel count the more cells you have and the bigger the space needs to be to contain your battery. Work out what range you want depending on the space available but do use good LG or samsung cells. I have a 10s 3p LG battery running dual hubs and I’m 100 kg. I get 15k max if I’m careful. My son whos 50kg has a 10s 2p with dual hubs and gets twice that range so it really is dependant on your personal circumstances and requirements but if you go cheap on the battery its false economy.

This is a very simple explanation and I’m sure the genius’s on here will be able to give you far more technical details if you need them.

1 Like

im about 130 lbs… and i plan to use 1 hub but upgrade to 2 eventually… and probably not ever upgrade if the 1 hub makes me happy…

everyone tells me to use dual… which is FINE… but i want to test 1 hub for myself (thank you very much)… also they themselves admit 1 hub can be rather great if you are willing to sacrifice going uphill… which i am… not to mention the variety of prebuilt retail products out there that are 1 hub and work completely fine with only DIY weirdos managing to break them (asking for it) and then posting long articles on why such and such company is cheap chinese crap… but i digress

essentially need to know: 130 lbs, 1 hub, 7 miles range: #p 130 lbs, 2 hub, 7 miles range #p
130 lbs 1 hub, 15 miles range #p 130 lbs 2 hubs, 15 miles range #p