glad to hear you are enjoying the board 
yes upping the motor amps will up the torque.
the slow mode on the remote is awesome for letting friends have a go. There is also a way to have the remote monitor the battery levels too - did i send you the wiring diagram?
Hi, and yes… ! Just adding grip tape before going anywhere further than a few hundred meters from my factory ! Very please dwith how it’s looking so far. Pics later today.
Don’t think I’ll be letting friends have a go even in slow mode any time soon. Way too fast for a novice unless they actually know how to skate
Don’t think you sent me that diagram. Can you forward it on to me when you get a min please ?
is this a stupid idea ?
It’s basically 5mm 3M backed foam cutout to hold the FOCBOXs in place and stop them moving around. However, I did all this weeks ago before seeing other threads where the vescs are in heatsink metal boxes. Have I essentially made an insulating blanket around a product that definietly needs circulating air around it, or does the heat escape from the top of the unit, not the sides ?
I only ask as it looks neat and tidy in the enclosure, and I like that, but not at the expense of the vescs.
Maybe I’ve answered my own question, or am I worrying about nothing ?
I would say test it out up a hill with and without it. See how long that foam hold the heat. If it retains heat like a Hawaiian Punch, then it may be a problem when the Focboxes are working hard and trying to cool down.
thanks. I live in flat-land though. Not a hill of any sort for miles around here other than the gentlest of gentle inclines. How much heat do the FOCBOXs generate anyway. Should they get hot onthe flat, or only when working really hard ?
i had my boxes with no ventilation for a year never had any problems, till i crashed 
How I cut my logo… £3 blade compass of eBay
Then used some gold Mylar sticky sheet under the Jessop
I’m sure somebody on here knows what the logo is…
aphex twin! 
Test ride = Success
Everything works.
what a cool spot to ride!
It’s like that for miles !
I’ve been running around testing and familiarizing myself with this board for a while now, using easy settings recommended by @DavidBanner
The battery is a 10s5p and the original settings were on these screenshots below :
MASTER:
SLAVE:
with SLAVE APP CONFIG set to:
As this is my first electric skateboard it was suggested I keep the Motor Max at 40A just to get used to things, and to be fair the performance was pretty amazing at that. Of course I have no point of reference, but I like speed, especially on a board of some description, powered or not (my gravity powered record on snow is currently 78kph - about 48mph).
So, this morning, finally, I’ve cracked open the enclosure and done the BLDC thing, tweaking the settings to 80A Motor Max, and increased the Battery Min (regen) to -14A as I’m quite heavy at 95KG so felt a little more punch in the braking wouldn’t go amiss. Ran the Motor Detection process and Write Config at every step, and left everything else as it was. My APP CONFIG works and the MASTER / SLAVE connection via CANBUS is working OK.
Here are the new screenshots. I’ve bench tested everything and it seems to be working OK as before. You can tell a different ‘note’ to the motor sound, presumably due to the increase in Motor Max (?) but other than that I think I’m good to go…?
Please can someone more learned than me cast their eye over these new settings and either give me the GREEN LIGHT or suggest some tweaks that I might have missed / overlooked ?
MASTER MOD #1
SLAVE MOD #1
One last thing. I have a BT Module currently unconnected on my desk. Could someone please post a recommended YT tutorial for setting it up as I can only find conflicting advice online regarding it’s implementation ? Thanks again.
Cheers guys 
Regarding the BT Module…
I can’t get this to connect, to either ESC Monitor or BLDC Tool Apps.
I checked the wiring, especially the TX > RX swap over, and all good. I get the flashing red light on the module - definitely power going there, but don’t know whether the light is good or bad.
Searching for BT Devices on my phone, either within the APP or just through settings, draws a blank.
I have attached it to my Slave (checking just UART on the App Config page as per tutorial) and also tried via the Master (PPM and UART). Still can’t see it as a device on the phone.
I must be overlooking something here…? Any suggestions ? Thanks.
Edit : my phone is Android S8+ running 8.0.0 FW if that makes any difference
Android has made some updates to the OS which is causing low power BT modules to not work. Do you have an iOS device or a device running an earlier version of Android available to test the module? I have sourced some modules that should work with the new version of Android which are on their way, once they are tested and confirmed as working I will get one over to you.
Re FOCBOX settings: Nothing wrong with the motor settings you posted, but I would recommend setting the motor min to -80A.
On the App config page:
Re Motor Detection: Once you have done the motor detection there is no need to re-do it unless you change the phase leads around, and also always do motor detection without the belt attached to the wheel pulleys.
Re Remote: you have the maytech mini remote right? do you know about the fast/slow mode on the remote? Oh and also there is a way to get the board battery pack levels displayed on the remote too - let me know if you don’t have that info and I will post a wiring diagram
Thanks man. I have got an old S5 somewhere. I’ll dig it out and see if that works.
I did wonder about the Motor MIn Value, which was one of the reasons for posting these shots. I’ve seen non-symetrical values before, but with no confirmation of whether they’re correct or not. Out of interest, why does it need to be -80A, other than the ‘because it does’ reason ?
CAN works fine and those settings are already input.
Now you’re worrying me as I’ve alway done Motor Detection with the belts ON. What’s the reason for not doing, and have I put anything at risk by running MD assembled ?
I do have the Maytech Mini. Yes I know about the Fast / Slow modes, and only ever used Fast after the first test run
Can you post a wire diagram for the battery level info. I checked and don’t have it here from your earlier emails.
Cheers for your quick reply btw !
OK, tried the S5 and it can see a device called CC41-A but then when you tried to connect, the first time it says “can’t communicate with CC41-A”, and then all subsequent efforts say “pairing rejected by CC41-A”
Do I have a duff module ?
thats the motor rated max and it its easier to leave it set to 80 and drop the batt min. perfectly fine to have a lower value though 
no you wont damage the motor but the readings may be a little inaccurate.
will do when i get back to HQ
probably not, they dont pair but should be visible in the app. i use the ackmanic app
Ok thanks.
I’ll redo to BLDC thing with belts off, as change Motor Min to -80A.
Battery max at 25A is fine though?
Also, I set the Cut Off Start 35V - End 33V. I’m right in thinking lower values squeeze more range, but risk damaging the cells as they discharge down to nominal 32V… hence having this value a little higher as a safety buffer?
Cheers for the Maytech info in advance.
I also have the ackmanic app and was using this earlier whilst trying (and failing) to connect. Module not visible on my S7 or new S8+ but visible on old S5. However, couldn’t pair, but also no info on the app, just blank screen and “…scanning” was displayed.
I’ll try again later - board is at work on desk, and I’m not
perfect, keep it under 30a and you will be golden.
Those are nice and conservative figures, but you have a 10S5P pack with plenty of range so it makes perfect sense to keep it like that and keep the battery in great condition.
mm, that is a little odd, the S7 and S8 I would expect that behavior if you have been letting the OS update itself the S5 is a little strange if the os is less than 8.0
I will arrange a care package for you with one of the new BT modules that are incoming and I was also going to send you some lights to try out along with mounting brackets - I have been working on a lighting solution for a few months now, I am really happy with the results but would value a second opinion. The lights are powered by the board’s battery pack so you will need to add a step down converted to get 12v to power the lights.
since its possible to hook up any 10S battery (without having to use a maytech vesc as stated in the manual) to the receivers GND and 42V pins to have the remote indicate battery status, its advised by maytech to connect a 10K resistor to the positive side between the battery and receiver.
Wow cheers mate. I’ll fit them straight away ! I took mine off as they rattled too much without any dampening. Looking forward to seeing your solution ! Will test and report back. I have a step down converter in my tool box awaiting fitting, this will give me the push to use it
Cheers for the diagram too
