Hi Arjan,
I already made a post of my Onewheel on the other forum. But until now most knowledge on DIY Onewheels seems to be on this forum :).
Here are some pictures of my build. It is a Hoverboard conversion.
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I know, but there is a very big chance that this forum will shut down soon (forever). Thatās why Iām suggesting to maybe share the info on both forums. I suggest you link your post to your build in the thread I made, as a first.
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Well, just add it here:
https://forum./t/project-noahs-ark/10219
or if it gets cut out:
https://[newforum]/t/project-noahs-ark/10219
https://[swen.8kse.murof]/t/project-noahs-ark/10219
some parts are backwards 
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That thing is MEGA!!!
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@NuRxG yeah I wanted to ask you about the tires you have tried on your 8" hubs. Which one do you like the best? I want something a bit shorter and narrower than that 225/55/8
I donāt have any 8" hubs, those are all the monsterwheel. the guy who built that isnāt on here i donāt think, but he is in the telegram chat i posted earlier.
do you guys know where can I find information on the onewheel motor wiring? I maybe get their motor on my diy, china is pretyyyy slow sending stuff bc of the virus, so i might try to source locally, and use with my vesc!
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It seems like there are only a couple people who have looked into it enough to know the KV of all the OW motors.
I donāt know if you have to unwind a motor to tell how many turns/pairs were used but maybe you could tell without destroying it.
(Pic to help illustrate my point)
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Those photos tell us nothing about the KV.
Your best bet is to hook it up to a vesc and check the KV from the vesc software.
wasnāt aware that was a thing, Cool!
Yeah, itās a thing. Itās not 100% accurate, but usually within ~+/-10%. The latest version of vesc-tool with the implementation of HFI is far more accurate than the earlier versions which used a different method.
Lol, KV always has been super accurate. Just let the motor spin at max RPM, Note down the Voltage and the actual RPM and divide each other. Then divide the result by 0.95 (because of the maximum of 95% duty of the VESC). Tested with optical RPM-Meter and Encoder, error is below 1%
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My BMS on my XR diedā¦ Is BMS for Onewheel XR somehow locked/paired to the controller? If I take working BMS from another XR and put it in my board will it work?
Sorry if this is off topicā¦ But there are so many knowledgeable people here and I can not find answer anywhere else. Sending board to FM is not an option for me.
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There is a facebook āOnewheel DIY Squadā group with all the info. You should be able to do that I think.
I broke my onewheel v1 BMS Iām going to use a chinese one thankfully it works without the BMS
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Alex, it depends on the firmware version. If itās 4209 or before you can use any xr bms. If itās the new 4210 you have to send it back as the bms and controller are paired
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Hello all, after looking through the thread again Im still left wondering how many amps people are putting through the Phub-188 (or any similour Phub-ā¦) without problems? I know Volts = more rpm with these low KV motors but how does Amps effect things? other then heat. Im in the middle of working out my BMS, I could go for a BMS bypass but I dont like the idea so im looking at how many amps people are using. Thank you all for having some patience with someone thats learning, any and all advise or answers are appreciated.
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Volts = RPM.
Amps = torque.
Volts x amps = watts.
RPM x torque = horsepower (and one HP = 746 watts).
As for your other question, the motor is rated for 600 watts, which is the continuous rating. BLDC hub motors, being quite beefy and having lots of thermal mass, are very tolerant of being overdriven HARD (by several hundred percent or more) for short periods of time, and our applications are, for the most part, very intermittent - you wonāt be drawing anywhere near your peak power setting most of the time. Iād say try 30 motor amps, ride it around for a while and see how the temperature of the motor looks. If it gets too hot, dial the current back. If it doesnāt get hot at all, feel free to add more power - The more motor amps you have available, the more torquey and authoritative it will be at low to medium speeds.
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Hi,
Iām brand new to the forum, but scrolled through the entire thread. Iām from Belgium, so not natively speaking English. Iāve been playing with the idea of making a DIY Onewheel for several years now and last year I purchased:
a phub-188 (36V-600W) a flipsky 4.12 an esp32 (as Iām taking classes to learn to program Arduino, had a quite big C-programming skill back in school) an MPU (canāt say which, as Iām not at home right now, it was included in a starters pack)
all without knowing the existence of this forum (just found out about it yesterday).
-I hooked up my esp32 through UART with the ESC. Why? To get feedback from the controller (Amps, RPM,ā¦). -Controlled the duty cycle, wheel turns all fine. -connected the MPU through I2C, all fine -integrated a PID controller in the code
-wheel behaves very strange, seems like readings from the MPU gets distorted when wheel is rotating. ->changed to shielded cable and de-attached the MPU from the test- setup (the wheel is mounted on a wooden board with brackets so it can run freely on the table, the MPU on a mini totter) Then I abandoned the project (for 6 month now).
Now I want to pick it up again. And i could use some help pointing me in the good direction.
-I read about connecting the MPU directly to the ESC and flashing the firmware. ->no experience with that, but I understand it is the easiest method to get it running?
-what if I really want to use an android application for the ledstrips, settings and monitoring? That is why I had the Esp32 in my mind. -and related to that, should I use, PWM or UART to communicate with the ESC?
I have read the post on the website of akash idnani, is it still up to date? Iām a bit confused he uses an esp32 but programs it with CPP and not Arduino (I know its a lot the same, but I have only experience in programming the esp32 with Arduino).
Another detail, for batteries Iām using 2, 18V 4Ah Makita batteries in series to get my 36V. Each battery has 5 cells in series and two cells in parallel, So it bassically is a 10S setup. For now, this saves me the costs of buying and making my custom batteries. The board will be thicker than normal, but I can change to custom batteries later as it is for testing purposes now. I also want to try the 36V batteries from Makita.
I hope someone will read this long post (and hopefully some are willing to answer one or a few questions).
Thanks in advance,
Toon