I am wondering if the phone gps should be used (rather than a separate one in the remote) as the one in the phone is probably more accurate. Don’t know if there is enough data for current longitude and latitude to also be sent - as you said, each one contains over 7 numbers!
The sending is not a problem. But I think I will leave two options.
- Using Phone = 4G, RIP Battery
- Using GPS in board with downloaded map on phone with no internet/4g = Healthy battery.
I can make it in two options though. But I will choose the second one for now. I can even connect a GSM module to the board so if it gets stolen you can track it everywhere in the world.
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I think I have changed my mind. I want everything going on the phone. The phone will send the data and when to turn. Much more simple and faster.
Nearly finished replicating exactly a 2.4ghz antenna - I think the back of my first design looked to big and clunky, so seeing if maybe I can get the antenna to come up the middle of the back of the screen and have the back of the screen look like it is molded around the antenna. Also redoing the remote at the same time - started the grip, have made indents for fingers and a hole for the thumb stick (unsure of its dimension though). I like the idea of the phone doing the brunt of the work - my board will have a 5000mah fast-charge battery pack on it so I can charge my remote and maybe my phone as well when not riding!
OLED remote v2 (see pictures below). 2.4ghz antenna http://a360.co/2pxvXCb OLED controller v2 http://a360.co/2p0tn6v Round holes at the front are for leds/ arrays of leds. Switches can be put on the sides or below the screen. The thumbstick goes in the slot on the handle. The grip has got finger dents in them, I put the antenna where it is, so that the signal from the transmitter only has to go through plastic not the palm/ fingers of a hand which will weaken it.
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You know you can use a smd antenna component?
But I dont know if it will work. Its rated on 2.4ghz.
The controller looks very cool! Looks like someone is showing the middle finger in the front 
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I know there are SMD antennas, but I do not want a signal drop - hence the massive antenna rated for 1000m. On an e-board, I rate safety highly - no signal drops is the aim. I was hoping it would appear more like a face but now you raise the middle finger image … it does look like a middle finger (will have to change that). Any suggestions on changing the shape of the controller is appreciated.
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Maybe change the placement for the antenna? Because it points up to the air not down to the board. Or flat… If you make it coming out of the cylinder.
The antenna currently can be rotated any which way for the moment - the long bit has a hinge point at the end. Will make it flat now.
Look what I found! You dont need no antenna anymore!
This is the long range module in smd! You can see it has an inbuilt antenna. It is listed on the same specs. So you should get 100 meter with no problem. NRF24L01 Long Range SMD
And the good thing I dont need to change the pcb because it has the same pins!
Im going to add a option in my app now. The option is Phone Location, or Board Location. I think if I download the map and uses the phone location I dont need to use internet.
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I think that I will purchase 2 boards in september first with the smd antenna, test that to make sure it is safe and then purchase the larger antennas if ever the signal cuts out in testing. I am slightly dubious as to whether the smd antenna will allow for the same distance as the usual wifi antenna style (optimistic distance rating on the smd?), but if it is good enough following testing, I will go with that - gives more space for electronics and doesn’t look like a middle finger!
Post pictures of your app/ pcb when you have made those changes - sounds great. I thought you said above that you were going to get rid of the gps in the transmitter? Or are you going to leave it in, but only use it if is triggered in the app?
You can choose to use the gps in board or the gps on your phone on the settings in the app. And I think the smd nrf24l01 long range is that good! Because it has Low Noise Amplifier and Power Amplifier. And if I use a UF capacitor to get rid of the noises in the power from the battery the range increases too!
You know the ESP8266 they have a ridiculous long range! They have only a pcb antenna. But the NRF Longrange smd has an external antenna cap, that improves. So it should work perfect! I will do some range testing with them in the future 
Yes I will show you images etc. Right know I need to add function like: You are not connected to bluetooth. Because sometimes I am wondering why I cant find the bluetooth device because I had my bluetooth turned off.
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Looks good! Btw you are right the phone is more accurate. I get number that are much longer: 0.00000000000, 00.0000000000000
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GPS Style:
Board: It uses a GPS that are connected to a processor in the electric skateboard, that sends the longitude and latitude via bluetooth to your phone. When the phone receive it, it calculates it and chooses the fastest route. Then the phone sends back the direction to the processor. The processor then sends it via a radio to the display on the remote. The remote shows where to turn, and when to turn in meters. Phone uses almost no power.
Phone: It uses the Phones gps. Uses alot of power. It gets the latitude and longitude from the gps in the phone. And then it calculates the route to destination, sends back road direction via bluetooth. The processor forwards that data to the remote and display where to turn, and when to turn in meters.
Follow Current Position:
It follows your current position 
It displays the route on the phone(Not shown in picture because it shows my location). I will add more settings like accuracy of gps on phone, auto blinker, road type(Highway, Normal, bikepath, wallking path) and much more. Since the gps can calculate the time I can add various features like auto night light. You go on the phone/remote and choose the time when you want the lights to turn on. Like if the clock is 18:00 the light will turn on automatic, add a light sensor on it to so when you enter a tunnel with no light inside it the light on the board goes on.
Bugs to be fixed: Timeout on making/refreshing routes.
Error: Error Domain=MKErrorDomain Code=3 “Directions Not Available” UserInfo={NSLocalizedDescription=Directions Not Available, MKErrorGEOError=-3, MKErrorGEOErrorUserInfo={ GEORequestThrottleStateLevel = 0; GEORequestThrottleStateResetTimeRemaining = “0.5064319968223572”; }, MKDirectionsErrorCode=0, NSLocalizedFailureReason=A route could not be determined between these locations.}
To fix this I think I wlll need a delay, I hope I am right.
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Looks like the Apple’s API is shit! You cant send to many request and if you do it times you out for 6 second. So I will create the app again from the bottom, but this time I will use Google’s API. I hear it doesn’t time out like apple’s api, which is good. So I hope this will work!
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Sorry to hear about apple maps api being annoying - you wouldn’t expect it given how sleek they manage to make some apps!
Is the first processor you are talking about in the board - nano in board is connected to vesc, bluetooth, GPS module and NRF. Seems like a lot for the bottom board to handle, given that you want it to send the data up from the VESC up without errors and send back throttle/ braking power without errors. But I may have misunderstood.
The app looks great btw - very simple and sleek! Good luck with the Google API.
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Yes the processor aka microcontroller ATmega32U4. The google api looks simple but there are no tutorials on direction but I will find a way! And in the API mananger you can limit how many request is allowed on a day or 100 seconds which is cool! Right now it stands on unlimited so there is hope!