Official TRAMPA DIY build thread - Street and Urban Carve

@Pedrodemio I should be getting my hs11 board on Friday, I’ll take measurements for you if no one else gets to it before me

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Thanks, my fear is the board getting to low of the ground and the enclosure hitting the pavement when turning

@mxrider9239 Thanks, appreciated

If i’ts indeed 200mm maybe the max I can fit is 10S9P, or make the narrow section without any screw holding it to the deck

@Pedrodemio what kind of enclosure are you going to use? I want to use a pelican case or another similar style hardcase on the tail section, but I need my battery to come in first so I can measure that before getting a case.

My plan is 3D print sections and join them, if I decided to go each group of battery’s will be in its completely isolated enclosure, similar to most enclosures we for trampa decks

But if I manage to build this huge battery this solution wastes too much space, so I plan to make the same indovidual sections, but open and join them with something, the best o cheapest thing I can think of is bicycle tubes, thin and flexible

Imagine cutting the enclosure that trampa sells in lots of sections and gluing a piece of rubber between them, but with 3D printing I can design a solution that looks more elegant, I may sketch something to see how it looks

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Ahh gotcha. Yea bike tube should work, I don’t see why not

Would like to see a trampa deck with a pressed in battery groove, and without the curve. Sure you’d loose a lot of the flex, but I’m not sure how much of a bad thing that would be. At least better OE options than what is currently available. The current under board solution seems like a lot of work, and aesthetically I have a problem with those battery boxes mounted above board behind the rear truck.

Instead of glueing rubber you could look at using polyurethane to fill in these gaps. It sticks pretty well to everything and depending on which one you get can be quite flexible. A little expansion fold would help it accomodate the flex. Something like this. (blue = polyurethane/bike tube, black = 3d print/fibreglass etc) cs

This is along the lines of what I was thinking before I made my whole enclosure out of polyurethane.

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I like the idea, may be a little hard to pour something this thin, but i have no experience

My plan is something like that, keeps the low profile and integrate the flexible part nicely, if i actually go down this path i will calculate the deflection and see what material will be adequate without compromising the flex and loading the enclosure/glue beyond the limits

The glue is another important point, it can’t fail ever since this board will see mud and lots of puddles/rain (flooded roads maybe?)

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205mm with radius at the edge. so 200mm is realistic.

Frank

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If your going that route I would say to almost sandwich the rubber with a metal strip and screws, it won’t be as seemless but it will definitely hold the rubber and keep it from falling of due to glue failure

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Spotted the chromes tucked away at the bottom of the hypa hubs page… could do with a better picture IMO but then chrome on a one colour background will always look strange. Any real life pics floating about?

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Check our instagram. Linked bottom of our page.

https://www.instagram.com/trampaboards/

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Whoa I had exactly the same idea for years, and also now thinking about going for the same board! But, since I moved to another country I don’t have much tools nor allowed to do any noise in the builiding I live in, so my question is: when it will be avaialble for sale? If not any soon, I could also go as a prototype tester/builder(It’s actually part of my job). All I need is the housing, then I will weld/assemble my own battery pack(I have a spot welder). Also I think it would be good to 3D print some semi flexible case for 2x4 cell module, will hold cells, keep them separated at least a little bit and will have integrated impact guard(s), so we don’t deal with tufnol, tapes, wood etc. And if it would be possible, have them modular so you can easily replace faulty module.

PS Some time ago I was manufacturing 18650 battery packs for drones in the past(+ few for EV) so it wouldn’t be my first rodeo :stuck_out_tongue:

Can you give any more info on this please? I’ve been building and flying ‘drones’ for the past 7 years and have always used LiPo’s. I’d been keen to know more about the 18650 for this application.

You can google everything, people have been doing this for quite a few years now, there’s a lot of tutorials on how to do them with basic tools. There’s not much to it, you simply glue cells together, like with hot glue, then make electrical connections, solder wires and cover it in this thin heat shrink sleeves for batteries. It’s good for slow planes, usually you get twice the flight time, people were saying that it’s flying soo long that they get simply bored and changing batteries is thing of the past xD But do not forget this thread is about esk8.

hi , i have use the silicone for your enclosure . But this material make many static electricity And that disconnect the remote all time !! :transpiration: It’s very dangerous !!! :crier: Do you have an idea of material more safe of this silicone ?

I didn´t lay out all tray with silicon. Just covered the cuts with electric tape from inside, than added some silicon from outside into the cuts. Seals up well, still gives it a nice flex.

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nice , can you post photos of that ?

unfortunatelly not anymore… the tray burned when my batterypack got on fire… I think @rich made something similar. you can find his build log here

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OOooh i’m sorry for you :grimacing: thx for link .

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shit happens, but all is good, never mind. the prinzip is easy. just cover the inner side with any kind of tape and than bend it in one direction and will out the cut with silicon. wait till it´s dry. than bend in the other directione and will the remaining cuts with silicon again. wait till its dry than reliease the tray and you ready to go. the only thing you should take care, check in summer from time to time if it´s still sealed up. silicon can become too dry and don´t seal up 100% anymore.