Mister @mikenyc
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Haha yes, I saw that. But I feel like there is a difference between the amount of spin that occurs during motor detection, and a full spin with a remote. 
I actually remember reading it before that you should do motor detection with wheels on, I think Frank of Trampa posted it…not 100% sure though.
So yes, do motor detection with wheels on. It will give a more accurate reading.
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Thanks bud! 
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You don’t have to remove the motor if you just want to push the rotor back towards center. Just put the wheel and the spacer between the wheel and motor to push the wheel, then crank the axle nut. tight. If the wheel does not turn easily because you tightened the axle nut too much, then put some speed rings between wheel and spacer.
The rotor will be pushed towards the center via the middle of the bearing, and by the hub of the wheel itself. Everything should line up and be supported by the axle nut.
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@LEVer good to have you posting! I think you relieved a whole bunch of pressure for a ton of people 
As people are receiving their drives, can you give some starting points for vesc settings?
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blcd-tool or vesc-tool, or ackmaniac?
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motor amps SD-R vs XL
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foc vs bldc, sensors, motor temp sensor?
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current + brake? or current + brake + reverse? I read somewhere more braking power was available with reverse enabled?
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4wd considerations
Thanks man.
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are you SD, XL? 2WD, 4WD?
Asking because I’m also in the process of configuring. Would like to see how others are planning on setting theirs up.
I am running 4WD SD. Was advised to split power 70 (rear) /30 (front) for accel, and 30 (rear)/70 (front) braking.
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The plan is, “yes”? At least once, for science.
But the real build is probably XL 2wd (I’m too fat for 2wd SD-R, 4wd is just too heavy and too much $$$ to lose at once).
Great info on power split. I’ll add to the list above.
nice, really would like to see your parallel harness for 4wd 
Most of these things will be limited by your battery and not your motors.
Motors can take 2250w (XL) and 2500w(SD), so thats about 30A-40A at 12S. You would need 4P 25R or 6P 30Q cells to get there.
Im running my motors in FOC unsensored (in my mind its just more thing that can go wrong), current+brake. Bldc-Tool for me for now, last i read vesc-tool had some weirdness with the breaks.
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Yea braking isn’t really powerful and the board keeps rolling even when pressing full brake… Foc sensored through vesc tool. Anyone knows why this is?
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I’m so busy building that I still program with the BLDC-tool 
I haven’t heard anybody having problems with the other apps though. Derek especially liked the Ackmaniac’s because of the reverse function. He felt like he needed the reverse to fully stop (actually, to go back up again) when going downhill because he was big a dude.
For SDR, my motor Max/Min is 80A/-120A. For SDXL 60A/-80A. The XL has more drag when you let go of the throttle than the R (because of the lower kv) so you don’t need to crank up the braking that much. It also has more resistance, again due to low kv, so I don’t recommend going faster than 35 mph on them because too much speed heats up the XL.
I only do FOC, super quiet and I feel having better control on the motors. Definitely use the sensors, better startup and better braking. I actually haven’t used the temp sensors. Look up Derek’s thread cause I believe he posted his temperature parameters somewhere.
I ride with no reverse as I’m experienced and light enough to know how to fully stop in most situations. I also foot-brake below 3 mph, I’m not on the board 100% of the time. But if you need to do frequent and hard braking, like if you live on a hill or a very crowded urban area, then I will recommend going with reverse.
4WD with R is the ultimate ride. You get both speed “and” torque. Take off and braking is instantaneous as well as traction cause you use the grip of the 4 wheels. Turning is also more amazing as you can slow down in the middle of the turn if you think you’re gonna go wide, and then crank it up again to re-align your exit. With 2WD, you almost need to fully stop if you entered the turn going too fast. 4WD with XL is kinda pointless because it will just double up the torque and make the board super heavy.
If you really, really, really need just torque…you shouldn’t do a direct-drive, a geared down system will provide all the torque that you need at half the weight. @psychotiller has a sweet 4WD belt-drive setup with SixShooters and mini 50mm motors. It takes off like a rocket and will not dislodge your arm from your shoulders when you carry it.
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his 4wd board is sick!! i was shitting bricks when i rode it
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My neighbors were pissed about all the bricks in the road…
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these slick revs have nothing on ur wheels man
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Holy crappers it’s good to have you back.
I forgot to ask, 12s is preferred? 3p or more for 2wd, 5p or more for 4wd?
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I didn’t know that the sensors were used for braking, but it kinda makes sense, i will try it out!
Yup, 12s is highly recommended for SpeedDrives and min 3p for 2WD and 5p for 4WD. Highly recommend 30Q cells.
10s is recommended for TorqueDrive and min of 2p with 30Q. Use bigger wheels like 107mm+ to go faster.
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Any estimate at all on when XL will start to ship would be greatly appreciated.