I’m not sure of the importance of motor detection without pulleys, I generally just remove the heavy wheel and do detection, that has worked as far as I know. For the Carvons I left the wheel adapter on and detection worked as well.
Maybe the whole “do not spin motor” thing is just a precaution as the wheel and axle nut presses everything together?
try taking it off all the way and checking inside, if it all looks well put it all the way back on with some screws and see if the clicks stop, if they do, use some loctite and rescrew it down.
Put a wheel and axle nut on it, otherwise it the rotor will just wobble. The stator is secured by the mounting collar attached to the hanger, but the wheel and axle nut secures the rotor from centrifugal forces.
The noise is the same with our without the wheel, i took the wheel off just to check if the noise would change. Ill upload a new video this afternoon with wheels on.
The noise on the V3 was because the wheel needed some tape in the driver for the clicking noise that I had during startup and hard acceleration.
What is happening now is both motor have strong resistance, with a clic at each magnet, there’s no freewheel and it’s hard to turn the motor (see my video posted earlier today). The weird thing is that it will somewhat disappear for some time and come back from nowhere.
And lastly I have some serious heat throttling issue with the drive, it’s hard to climb any little hill. Do you still recommend running at 80A? I Never had any throttling on my V3’s…
I am glad to see you again in the forum anyway
Already tried to isolate the problem, both motors are unplugged without wheels now. Same issue, strong resistance.
I can remove the resistance of the motor by pressing all my weight on the rotor can,then the motor spins easily (while keeping pressure on the rotor can)