No I have not tried the C button yet, but how would this effect things?
The c button rules! But you have to let off of it before you can brake. With it pressed you would just be adjusting cruise control.
If i buy a Wiiceiver can i use the PWM settings instead, Is that how it works?
This is weird, Iām also running a nunchuck without problems and I have the default time ramping settings set. Have you tried re-flashing the firmware and doing a fresh setup of the VESC ? As youāre both using different hw versions Iād be surprised it was the VESC itself. You could also try a second Nunchuck/receiver combo. Theyāre cheap on amazon and if it diesnāt work you could just return it.
1 Like
@Ross If you buy Wiiceiver you connect to the PPM pins just like you would with an ordinary RC rx. You would use the PPM app settings instead of the Nunchuck application. But it adds another layer of complexity for no real gain.
Wiiceiver will not solve your problem. You need to use the perpetual steez button (C) to engage your steez and then control acceleration with the thumb stick by flicking it up or down for deceleration. To brake simply release the perpetual steez button and gently bring the thumb stick back.
watch me in this video and pay attention to my thumb.
PROBLEM SOLVED!!! 
I reflashed both VESCs with the SAME firmware as already installed (2.8). I then chose the same CAN, general and nuchuck settings on each VESC the same as before. The only thing i did differently was run the auto motor parameter detection immediately after reflashing. I had not yet run the auto detection when i was having the problems, but parameters were so close that i donāt think that this was the issue. But yeah that workedā¦
Anyway, this thing is ridiculously powerful!!! Soooooo much better than i expected! I just reduced the max amperage to 40 to each motor (from 60 default) so ill see how that goes. There is no way i could have possibly used all the torque before. Breaking was also basically flawless, but no more than half could be applied before locking the wheels. So i have reduced breaking current to -30 amps (from 60 amps default)
By the way Iām running;
Gravit Drop Kick 43" (1/2" drop deck) Batteries 12S (2 x Turnigy Zippy 6S 4500mah 45C in series) Caliber standard trucks 3/16 shock pads (nice n low) 2 x VESC 4.1 With heat sinks mounted to each FET Custom enclosure with active cooling (printed in PLA) 5v 0.5 amp centrifugal cooling fan (50mm in diameter) 2 x Enertion r-spec 190 KV 63-55s Torqueboards V1 rotatable mounts Alien Drive Systems Abec 11 hub drives (36t)
Works very nicely together indeed!
1 Like
good to see you got it sorted!
(I still recommend the use of perpetual steez though.)
@Ross do you have a build thread on this forum w pictures? If not, I bet everyone would love to see your build. Iām interested in the custom enclosure in particular.
Above youāve noted that you adjusted the motor and brake currents; do you have any advice on how to dial them in? Right now Iām using the default brakes and 70A (based on the max current my motor can handle). My build thread is here
Havenāt taken her for a run since the adjustments but i will tonight and let you know how i go.
No build tread yet, still got mu ugly test batteries strapped to the top of the deck :-\ But i just had 4 x Nano-tech A-spec 3S 4500mah 65 - 130c arrive 
They are so slim (19.5mm) going to look awesome! Ill take photos once its finished. How do you upload photos to this forum? i cant figure it out.