Write that one off my friend really. You canât in all good conscience sell it on. Even stripping it down and selling the cells could be problematic. Soldering to the terminals like that can degrade the cell considerably if not done correctly and judging by the rest of the build it wasnât done correctly. Live and learn. If I thought you could safely use it I would suggest using it as a test pack on your bench but looking at the terminal soldering I wouldnât even have that in the house. Salvage what you can from it wiring etc and bin it responsibly of course. Then go round the little shits house and steal all his lego. What is it with bloody kids and crap batteries.
Holy Jesus, mother of God! 
Ok, basically all these cells are dead because theyâre leaking electrolyte⌠
Get rid of it, get a proper battery madeâŚ
Like this one 
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So in Motor Current, does that mean I drew 100amps at one point during my ride (not total?)? And in Battery Current means I drew 30amps at one point during the ride?
Itâs a single setup, 10s2p 30Qs.
Can anyone tell me if this drawing schematic for wiring 4 lipos to a bms is correct?
Ive been trying to figure this out for a while since the lipos all have 7 leads on the balance connectors. and I have never wired up a BMS before. so im kinda confused. any help would be amazing!
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Thats pretty and wondered when you were going to chime in. lol
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Theoretically no if you connect all wires like before. But motor detection never bad and donât take too much time. Just run one detection for each motor and you good to go.
Thatâs correct. You donât see in this view for how long, but yes in one point you was drawing 100a motor and 30a for your battery.
If you have a 2p pack you definitely need to lower your bat max values!!! Your battery canât handle more than 40a max.
I think they do. I know they fit Caliber2 and I know Caliber2 fit TB218, so I extrapolate Randall 35 fit TB218
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Fuck⌠I accidentally shorted my battery for less than 0.5 a second⌠Should I peel off the nick strip and do it over again or is it good enough?
Edit:
Lesson learned⌠do like that when you work with batteryâs and they can make a short
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Thanks, ill give it a try. i believe thy are like $30
Hello, Iâm planning on building an electric longboard. But i have a few questions on what to buy. This is what im thinking: Battery: 2x https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-5000mah-4s1p-20c.html Battery charger: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/accuell-s60-ac-charger-eu-plug.html Motor: Link below ESC: Link below
Does this work? or what do i need to get?
Thanks for tips
Motor: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-sk8-5045-195kv-sensored-brushless-motor-14p.html ESC: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-sk8-esc-v4-12-for-electric-skateboard-conversion-w-bec.html
Get the 10s version of the lead The esc will never work its built for a multi-rotor so know breaks and itâs only 20 amps. Go for a vesc. If youâre on a budget get a flipsky 4.12.
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is the rest compatible ? if updated the link to esc can i use that one, if so is all of the things now compatible. thanks for all the help 
and by the way is could anybody recomend a good reciver and controller preferiblei from hobby king thanks
The charger is out of stock. The motor is sensorless. If itâs not a problem look for the sk3 series on hk. They proven to be good. If you want sensored look for the sk8 motors from hk. Remote, go with the gt2b. Yes itâs a big remote, but there are a lot of mods from it with which you can make easy a small and handy remote from it. One of the best remotes you can get.
dude i did the same thing, pretty scary but no real dmg done to battery. i covered the site afterwards with a thin layer of glue to protect it.
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I think i got everything now execept some wheels anybody got any good tips on some wheels?
And is there any wiring that i have to buy to connect everything?
Hi, Just set up my new HK VESC because the old Enertion broke after 2 years. Somehow, while configuring the settings in the BLDC it must have accidentally switched to FOC mode where I did a couple of motor detections, still not recognizing I was in FOC mode. The motor spun spastic and came back with an error. A second or third trial was kinda successful. I discovered the âissueâ relatively late in the process and switched back to BLDC where the motor detection was successful straight away. Everything works fine but afaik there was a strict procedure switching between the modes to prevent a potential DRV failure. Anybody here remember this process???
Cheers
what is the wire called that lets you connect two lipos in series
Just look for xt90 serial plug or something like this.
Or just buy some xt90 and some 10awg wire and heatshrink and make your own serial plug 