Got another question regarding 18650 batteries and soldering them, I see that some companies, NKON for example offer to solder U / Z soldering tags on the batteries before they ship them.
The strips on the tags diemensions: 30x7x0.12mm.
Isnt it a possibility to decrease the heat transfered to the given cell that you get thoose tags and solder onto the tags and somewhat decrease the possiblity of heat getting into the battery?
For someone wihtout a Spotwelder this would be as soild idea? or is the tags themself gonna heat up when battery is in action due to being to thin?
I’ve been doing some reading, but still don’t really understand sensored vs unsensored motors, and where does the sensor wire connect? What does the sensored aspect of the motor do exactly, and can you run a sensored motor without using the sensored wire?
there are a few people here soldering without a spotwelder. You´ll need a high wattage soldering station above 80W to solder as quick as possible. Also there is this method:
normally there shouldn´t be a problem, because they already did the first setup for you. Some people get one without it. If you wanna go 100% sure, use a low voltage solution like in this thread:
I been searching around for a switch and came across the angel light.so I look up forms for it and really couldn’t find angrything:disappointed_relieved: but anyway I want to use it on my set up like the picture . The set up have is is 4*35c 14.8v two are connected in parallel then connect in sieres
I think if you´re talking about an “Angel light” you like to have a LED switch?
Something like this:
diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/electric-skateboard-on-off-power-switch/
Looks like a good build! Make sure you’ve got enough space for the battery though. You may also consider a smaller remote or a 3d printed housing for the gt2b components.
I’m working on my first build and I’m on the smaller side. 5’5 120lbs female. I bought 2 6s 20c 3000mah lipo batteries and am really curious as to how to set them up. I actually bought some hub motors 70mm off an ebuilder on here. I’m a noob but I’ve literally read over 12 hours worth of these forums so far according to the site.
Thanks. Now if I wire them in series, what numbers do I end up with. Ive been reading a lot and I’m still confused. That way I can understand the other parts I need like bms, VEsc, antispark
oh shit didnt notice there’s a stupid questions thread, here goes;
i’m seeing all these premade LiPo cells floating around on hobbyking like zippys, how hard are those to put integrate into a BMS? like say if i got three 10S 30C packs to make a 10s3p…how hard would it be to slap a BMS on them?
and would you have one BMS per pack, or one for the whole thing?
In series that would be 12s 3000mah. In parallel it would be 6s 6000mah. I would suggest parallel, would give you a lower top speed and longer ride time, at least until you get used to it.
There’s a section for builds, browse it and you will see what people have done I. The past that has been successful.
