Noob question thread! πŸ˜€ ask your questions here!

Think one of those should work as the rear truck with 1 hub motor. Then get a normal pair of trucks in the front and you should be good :slight_smile:

Thanks :slight_smile: I assumed as much. I have an ordinary caliber II lying around, does anybody know how much effort it is to cut them to size? I have a mill (no cnc) and a lathe available.

I managed to do it with a Dremel and an handsaw. It’s not that hard.

1 Like

Can you use normal papir instead of fishpaper? (Between the battery parallel cells)

No please use proper fishpaper, fishpaper is not simple cellulose paper. It’s made from a material similar to fiberglas making it non flamable, non conductive and fairly resistant to abrasion. Which is critical in the application we use it as an isulator.

2 Likes

Hi :smiley:

I want to use this: http://www.beltingonline.com/12-tooth-htd5-pulley-12-5m-15f-7708%3A84e5c6857b42e998b681db9039a1e456 and this: http://www.beltingonline.com/5mm-htd-timing-belts-4575 together Does it work and the nooby question is the belt cut when it gets deliverd? Thanke you :smiley:

Belt should be a continual belt that is the size you select. As for the pulley it should work as the motor pulley but you will need to make sure its bore hole matches the rod size of the motor

Can I use a system with no plugs, when everything is soldered? Battery output straight to antispark, and 2 vesc’s soldered straight to the anti spark output?

Maybe this is a dumb question. I’d imagine it only work on particular decks. But would it be possible to CNC a custom enclosure for focbox that mounts as a riser pad? I would imagine it would need to be two parts. one that bolts to the board. One that bolts to the truck. I imagine it on a drop-down board. Leaving the Box just barely wider than the width of the deck around where the truck mounts to the board to allow room for hardware access to bolt the two sides of the box back together. If that makes sense.

Yes you can however if you ever need to replace something it would be more then just swapping it out.

I would think it would put a lot of pressure on the focbox as you would probably want it to be rubber to dampen vibration so not very practical

I have a dual 75 kv hub motor with a 6s3p battery. Is this a viable combo? When testing with keyboard in bldc tool I’m able to stall the motor using my hand. Does the tool use partial current not representative of real world, are my settings somehow wrong, or is my battery too weak for this motor? Thanks!

Thanks! Just to make sure; this is fish paper right? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electrical-Insulation-Fiber-Paper-Fish-Paper-40-x-20-x-01/192184288680?hash=item2cbf1385a8:g:RmMAAOSwY3BZFHRQ

I have ordered a 149kv hobbyking sk8 motor. are they any good becuase the majortiy of people are getting sk3 motors.

alos is 149kv to low for a 10s3p pack. i want to go about 20mph with 15/36 gearing. I weigh 68kg??

Any thoughts? THANKS

this fuse will work for my battery ? 50.4v 120A peak with bms.

It will work for awhile but will eventually burn out from the inrush.

why burn when its 150A

My board breaks while its powered. it rolls way better when its unpowered then while the power is on. I only have this problem when my controller is connected to the esc.

because you need a spark protection, otherwise it will burn out over time

if you already have a 2,45 ghz remote, itΒ΄s simple to just plug in a new one. If you have some cheap chinese board, you are most likely not able to switch it out.