LY Evo are nice
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anybody know of any good remotes with multiple speed modes?
There are plenty you just have to research. Alot of the remotes have them. This one used in this link has 2
https://forum./t/how-to-bind-the-mini-remote/95
Hello, does anyone know what is the belt size I should use with evolve supercarve trucks, unik boards compatible mount and unikboards 6374 motors 15T with evolve 66T pulley.
I got the belts for 107mm but I would like to try evolve AT wheels that I have from my last board.
Thanks
I have a bamboo deck ( Loaded Vanguard flex 3) . I’m thinking of Drilling a hole to run a flat copper wire from the battery casing to the top of the deck and then run it under the grip tape to reach the VESC case on the other side of the deck. To have the copper wire flushed to the board, I’d need to carve a thin path along the board. Should I be worried about the board durability?
i am absolutely no expert, but i know that boosted board is doing it that way. Iirc the youtube channel “Whats Inside” cut a boosted open. Maybe you can copy from them
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Mini remote doesn’t have multiple speed modes – and I wouldn’t want it to – but you can use a third-party addon like the @Ackmaniac smartphone “app” to switch between speed modes.
This is better done in ESC software than in a controller.
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What behavior you expect from a sensored motor where the sensor is slightly loose and occasionally disconnects? I’m pretty sure the default direction w/o sensor is backwards
It should spin the same way sensored or non, but the speed controller will almost certainly freak out if it’s configured for sensors and then suddenly doesn’t have them.
tldr: Fix your shit, mang.
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Would it explain shaking when the throttle is constant and sudden grinding noises?
I already did, pushed the JST back in and added a dot of hot glue (I don’t have silicone on hand)
Wouldn’t surprise me.
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I know if you don’t redo your sensor detection after swapping phase wires, the vesc freaks out and will refuse to spin the motor - just vibrates loudly in place.
I would change that to run in unsensored mode immediately. Learn the hip-flick – to start from a stop without kick-pushing.
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I had it running like that for a while and its just so weak on startup, I don’t mind the hip-flick but it would sit there for a while before you felt the power…joys of old broken hubs
If I get this issue again (its the first issue in several months), then I’ll revert to sensorless
How are people connecting up multiple large-gauge wires? This is for the junction of power wires, where the battery, vesc and charger port wires all meet. So that’s 3x 10awg wires that need to connect up, preferably with bullet connectors or something similar so it can all be unplugged when needed.
Seems like it should have an obvious solution, but I’m failing to find the bullet junction blocks that I would use for smaller wires like 20awg. So far the only solution I’ve found for 10awg wire is to just solder them all together in a big blob, which is not the solution I want to use!
The charger port does not need to be a 10awg wire unless you’re planning to charge at 80A.
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No, but it does still need to junction to the main 10awg power line (at least according to the standard wiring diagram I am following from here…).
So sure the charger wire can be smaller, but I’d still need a 10awg/10awg/16awg junction (or whatever I use for charger).
Worryingly, I had got the idea for using 10awg from this site as I was generally told 12awg would be enough, but I decided to overengineer it a little and go with 10awg. Except now I learn that 10awg max safe amperage is 55amps, and my battery is 60amp max output. Not sure where this has gone awry.
The ampacity rating of a wire changes based on the temperature rating of the insulation and the maximum allowable voltage drop across the length of the wire. Silicone-insulated 200C 10AWG wire is good for about 120-130A, whereas regular Romex or whatever house-rated wire is only 60C, and is good to only 30A.
For a regular charging brick of 2-8A, 18-20AWG is fine. As for connecting, if possible I’d just solder the small wire onto the pads where you soldered the big wire. If you don’t have pads, but instead have a connector, you may be able to jam both the 10awg and smaller wire into that and solder them together that way.
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This is all true to some extent.
I’d like to add that I normally try to err on the side of caution and don’t exceed these ratings – which does put 10AWG at 55A continuous, 110A burst
You can use smaller wire but the losses and heating will be more, of course.
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