I am in the US, they ship overseas.
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I want it quick though. This would take a long time to arrive
I donât know of any quick way to get cells that arenât fake. Maybe someone here like @thisguyhere will sell some?
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I know Iâm going to regret this question butâŚ
What are you doing?
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I was hoping heâs waterproofing, but I donât know honestly.
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I found a way to make a Unity and 223v1 fit together really wellâŚfold the left phase wires through the power lead, make the power lead a 90 degree connection, run all the phase wires with different length extensions through the layers of the 223. The entire package fits perfectly with a 160mm wide cell holder setup
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I will waterproofâŚfull coverage in all directions with 3/8 closed cell neoprene foam and a steel container with neutral cure silicone on all the edges and a printed adapter to silicone all the wires as a block, as long as the water doesnât ingress through the wire I would chuck it in a pool
Oh youâve done it now. Prepare yourself for the full Brian.
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Thatâs not waterproofing.
Thatâs preventing water ingress â aka making it water resistant. Thatâs good â but itâs not as good as waterproofing, and they are best combined together. âWaterproofâ means your whole enclosure and motors and everything can be full of water in a river and it still works.
Typically thatâs acheived by putting acrylic conformal coating all over all things
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While I applaud any kind of innovation, messing around with the bms is pretty dodgy unless you know exactly what you are doing. Thats a discharge set up and has pretty much full control over whether you have power ie brakes. They do like to pull their head in and need resetting. Just be careful young fella.
How much for enough conformal coating to cover all the circuitry of a double layer BMS and a Unity?
Iâve already tried braking into my motors (MayTech sealed) and I canât get anything to separate, are the grub screws on the can afixed with locktite?
Itâs all good, I got mechanical brakes I can use as backup, first mod I ever madeâŚstill using it as my banner picture
But I got kapton tape and fish paper to protect the BMS, Iâll wrap the entire inside of the PCB and shrink wrap the wires together so it should be safe, maybe some silicone to prevent rattling ontop of that
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Iâm thinking of using T nuts for holding the battery and VESC case.
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That would stick out a little and make the grip tape ugly. Should I drill a bigger hole on top to push the nut in the board?
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Are M3 nuts big enough ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-Four-Prong-Furniture-T-Nut-Inserts-For-Wood-Zinc-FaJKU/153482777274?hash=item23bc4952ba:m:mK-0rtoEFhwA9Qn1e2yYVBw
One 55ml bottle is sufficient for a long time
Silicone, acrylic, or urethane for which parts? Gonna try to coat the encoders, ESC, and BMS. Not sure what to do about ports
You can get thread inserts like this 
that go in from the bottom, which will solve your ugly griptape problem. If you have a drill press or another way to drill to a specific depth, you might even be able to avoid having any holes that go all the way through to the top surface.
Those are available in many different styles for hard and soft wood, from many different sellers - be careful choosing the right ones.
âbig enoughâ is relative, and depends on how many you use. I prefer M4, and for my enclosure (enclosure bearing full weight of electronics), I had them spaced out every 3-4" or so all around the perimeter. If you go with M3, youâll need a lot more to get the same strength.
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I can sell you a bunch of 8-32 inserts with pan heads, they thread in and hold fast, especially with some epoxy
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10characters
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Ahh perfect, MG Chemicals is the only good one or is there an off brand of choice?
Do I put a dash of acetone or isopropyl on to clean it first?